What specific engine oil should I use for the life of my vehicle? Should I use the same oil during my break-in period?
I just purchased a new 2018 Toyota RAV4 XLE with a 2.5 Liter 2AR-FE engine and automatic transmission. The owner's manual specifies a 4.6 quart capacity of 0W-20 [oil grade ILSAC GF-5] multi grade engine oil. The recommended oil change period is 10,000 miles. The manual also provides the following break-in suggestions during the first 600 miles:
- Avoid sudden stops.
- Do not tow a trailer.
- Do not drive at extreme speeds.
- Avoid sudden acceleration.
- Do not drive in low gears for long periods.
- Do not drive at constant speeds for long periods.
I live in Minnesota where the temperature range is quite large (up to 90F in the summer and down to -30F in the winter). My driving habits are mainly defined by my 20 mile (one way) daily drive to work in which ~10 miles is free flowing freeway traffic and ~10 miles is slower city driving with stop lights. I also have occaisional road trips that are 500-700 miles over a weekend. In general, I avoid high acceleration.
For many years, I have been using Mobil1 synthetic oil and changing it at ~5000 mile periods (which is about three times per year for me). My logic was based on two ideas: (1) extreme cold weather starting is much easier with synthetic oil, and (2) I want to remove the contaminants from my engine to keep it functioning properly for a long time.
I've read comments on RAV4 forums that suggest changing the original factory installed oil after 1000 miles, followed by conventional 0W-20 oil changes at 3000, 5000, and 7000 miles. Afterward they suggest changing to a full synthetic 0W-20.
Oil Recommendation for RAV4 in Minnesota
- Thread starter akimboman
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Look, before this goes on for too long, the long and short of it is that you don't need some razzle dazzle, high priced, micro nano opto intelligent molecule hyper oil, now with extra razzle be-dazzle (Brought to you by Snoop Dogg).
Even though Snoop is actually really funny with Martha Stewart on their cooking show (look it up).
You just don't.
Really.
Buy something that meets OEM spec, change it on a regular basis, save some dough, and go wax that thing.
Even though Snoop is actually really funny with Martha Stewart on their cooking show (look it up).
You just don't.
Really.
Buy something that meets OEM spec, change it on a regular basis, save some dough, and go wax that thing.Last two new vehicles I bought I did oil changes per the manual: a VW wanted first two changes after 5k, then 10k intervals after that (eventually I stretched it out to 12k, and sold it running & not burning oil with 314k on the clock). My 2011 Camry did 10k changes right out of the gate. I think consumption might be creeping up a hair, but other than once, I've not had to add oil between changes.
IMO, if you want to do 5k OCI's, just do 5k OCI's on any 0W20 and call it a day. I'd go as far as to do 5k right out the gate. But I'd skip on any fancy version of 0W20 since it won't be in the sump long enough to matter.
Any of the four M1 0W-20s at maybe shorter intervals than what Toyota recommends and call it a day.
Maybe 8K+ drains, which is what I usually do with the IOLM on my newer Accord, by which time the car will indicate 15% MM.
After warranty, a 5W-20 might be preferable for its lower volatility.
Don't overthink this, since this doesn't seem to be a picky engine.
If it was my RAV4, I would use TGMO 0W-20 or Mobil 1 0W-20, OEM filter and change in the spring and fall, at about 7500 mile intervals.
1st oil change at 1,000 miles with synthetic, and next one at 7500 miles and so on.
If you're going to stick to something less than the 10k intervals recommended, I'd use QSUD 0W20 since it's literally like $2 more than SuperTech, and you can get a 300k warranty from SOPUS if you use it exclusively. If you're going to go beyond 10k, then use something like PUP/PP or M1 or TGMO or whatever other 0W20 you want to unnecessarily spend more money on over QSUD. Your money, your choice.
Any 0w20.
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I've read comments on RAV4 forums that suggest changing the original factory installed oil after 1000 miles, followed by conventional 0W-20 oil changes at 3000, 5000, and 7000 miles.
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You can use any major brand of 0w20 for your RAV4. Some people like to change the factory fill out early. That choice is up to you. Personally I change it out around the 1000 mile mark. It’s just a old habit for me.
Enjoy your new Toyota. They are fine vehicles.
Is the 2AR-FE a 4.6qt sump, or is it 5qt with filter? I've just been dumping in 5qt and it's been fine--fine match to 5qt bottles.
IMO, after a long winter with lots of cold starts, the 0W20 coming out seemed to smell rather strongly of gas, making me worry about dilution. I do 5k OCI's as a result with 5W30 in winter these days, and will likely use up some remaining 10W30 PP on a 10k OCI this summer before going back to 5W30 year round. YMMV. I suspect the motor doesn't care one whit either way, 0W20 or 5W30, 5k or 10k, but I sleep better at night, and that's all that matters. 
I buy OEM filters in a box of ten off Amazon or Ebay.
Good luck.
I buy OEM filters in a box of ten off Amazon or Ebay.
Good luck.The 2.5 is an excellent, reliable engine. I have a 2011 which is still within the 5w20 recommendation. I have run conventional 5w20, synthetic 5w20 and 0w20 in it. Now I run either syn 5w20 or 0w20 - whichever is on sale - brand does not matter.
Your car should have two years of free maintenance, oil changes at 10 and 20K, rotations at 5,15,and 25K. I would definitely take the free oil changes.
You will be fine with 10K oil changes. If you prefer every 5K, any good synthetic will do. These engines are very reliable and will likely be completely trouble free.
Don't do the conventional oil change thing, total waste of money.
Congrats on the new car.
I would change a 5,000 miles and then at 10,000 and every 10K after. Ed
You made a great point, simple_gifts. As I recall, the RAV4 forum comments were directing people to use conventional oil for the first 10,000 miles, to provide a better break-in. These comments were not specifically intended for 0W-20. I guess the validity of this comment does not affect me since 0W-20 is only available in full synthetic.
The only remaining question I still have is "Should I change the original oil early to remove high concentrations of contaminants caused by break-in?"
Originally Posted By: akimboman
You made a great point, simple_gifts. As I recall, the RAV4 forum comments were directing people to use conventional oil for the first 10,000 miles, to provide a better break-in. These comments were not specifically intended for 0W-20. I guess the validity of this comment does not affect me since 0W-20 is only available in full synthetic.
The only remaining question I still have is "Should I change the original oil early to remove high concentrations of contaminants caused by break-in?"
I have a 2017 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. Over 8000 mile still on its FF. I checked the oil early on and it looked good and clean, so I decided to let it in till the recommended 10k. I also figured a hybrid is going to be less hard on the oil than the gas engine only model. I would advice to take your 2 free oil changes at least, but they are only going to do it every 10k. Giving the climate you live in, I wouldn't deviate from the 0w20. Since you mentioned using Mobil 1, you could use Mobil 1 AFE, Mobil 1 EP, or Mobil 1 AP. There is nothing like a conventional 0w20, but there are a few 0w20 synthetic blends. Since the TGMO 0w20 is full synthetic, I say stick to a full synthetic all the way through.
Originally Posted By: NH73
I have a 2017 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. Over 8000 mile still on its FF. I checked the oil early on and it looked good and clean, so I decided to let it in till the recommended 10k. I also figured a hybrid is going to be less hard on the oil than the gas engine only model. I would advice to take your 2 free oil changes at least, but they are only going to do it every 10k. Giving the climate you live in, I wouldn't deviate from the 0w20. Since you mentioned using Mobil 1, you could use Mobil 1 AFE, Mobil 1 EP, or Mobil 1 AP. There is nothing like a conventional 0w20, but there are a few 0w20 synthetic blends. Since the TGMO 0w20 is full synthetic, I say stick to a full synthetic all the way through.
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