Oil recommendation for 2002 Dodge Ram Diesel

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Ilian

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Jun 1, 2011
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near L.A., CA
Hello to everyone. I'm new here, and it seems that this site is really good and informative. Which is the reason I'm here- to learn more about oils and lubes in general.
I have bought the truck new and have performed all engine oil changes, transmission and differential oil changes myself, with exception of the first few.
For engine oil I have always used the Delo 400 and Valvoline Premium Blue ci4+ (15-40) conventional oils with Fleetguard oil filters.
Since the disappearance of the ci4+ oils I have used Delo, Rotella, and Valvoline (15-40) conventional oils, but now they are CJ rated, as all the new diesels require them.
I still use the same Fleetguard oil filters.
I have been reading about the new oils being inferior to the older ci4+. Some people seem to make a great effort to acquire left over ci4+ oil.
Is this a paranoia, or should I look for some myself.
It is a work truck mostly, and I change the oil at no more then 4000 miles on it.
I appreciate all of your advice.
Ilian
 
Welcome to the site.
welcome2.gif



Most of the stuff you've read about the "new oils being inferior to the older ci4+" is just rhetoric and mythology.

Part of the contention was that the loss or reduction of some of the add pack (to be emmisions compliant) would result in more wear, but that has not manifested itself in reality. All the OEM lube makers such as SOPUS, XOM, Castrol, etc can show lab and field trials confirming that CJ-4 lubes do in fact reduce wear over the previous versions. Further, there are now thousands of UOAs around the country to show that same truth.

Some of the add pack that was affected by the emmisions-directed changes, generally resulted in the reduction of TBN. But the use of ULSD fuel simply produces less acids, so there is less need for TBN. Almost always, people will change oil long before TBN is ever even remotely a consideration for the OCI.

Use CJ-4 with confidence and you'll be fine.
 
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Use the Rotella 15w40. Can't be beat for price or performance.
 
If you're changing oil at 4k mile intervals, you're not really getting all the life out of it that you can. I ran Valvoline PB Classic for years on 15k mile change intervals. When they stopped making PB Classic, I switched to Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck, mostly to take advantage of lower viscosity on cold starts. I have noticed an unacceptable increase in oil consumption, and plan on switching to something else on the next change. I'm thinking either Rotella T6 or Schaeffer Supreme 9000.

But since you're running 4000-mile OCI's, and driving in southern Cal, just about any conventional 15w40 is fine for you. A conventional oil that I have read about recently is Mobil Delvac MX. I haven't yet found it at my local truck stop, but Mobil's help line tells me it's available. DMX has specifications similar to PB Classic: it is CI4+ rated, has very high TBN, and high zddp content. But like dnewton3 said; ULSD fuel has made high TBN unnecessary.

Fleetguard filters are great, and if you are using their synthetic media version, that's even better. The synthetic media actually is more effective at filtering small particles, yet has lower pressure drop than normal cellulose media filters.

If you have modified your engine by increasing the fueling, there may be an issue with more rapid soot loading of the oil. Then you should find an oil that has high dispersancy capability. CJ4 oils typically are very good at this, as they have been formulated to deal with soot generated by EGR systems.
 
Like mentioned above CJ-4 oils are just fine to run...fear of change is what a lot of people had when they first came out but many many people run them with no issues.

As far as oil any brand diesel oil will treat you just fine. Running OCIs as short as you are currently, you will not even come close to running low or out of TBN in the oil.

One thing I would do with a 24V VP44 pump cummins is install a fuel pressure gauge. That pump is fuel lubed pump and if it runs out of fuel your in trouble and dodge lift pumps are not the greatest ever made.
 
Thank you all. I updated my signature.
My truck is almost stock, with the addition of Bosch 275 RV injectors and 4" exhaust (post turbo).
I have gone to 5000 miles o one of the oil changes.
Fleetguard Stratapore. LF 3894 was the model I think.
I use Fleetguard sock air filter with OEM box- everything is OEM on the intake side. I'm trying to keep my engine and truck as clean as possible. And I also am trying to keep my truck for a long time too.
The only negative thing I know is short trips- often, so sometimes 6~7 start ups and shut down per day.
Knowing that, is regular Rotella, Delo, Valvoline... CJ still perfectly ok to use for me?
Do I need to consider an oil bypass filtration?
Thanks again.
Ilian
 
Yes any brand name CJ oil, 15w40 in your climate, should be fine.

Now, most trucks don't NEED a bypass oil filter but they will never hurt. VP44 truck don't soot the snot out of the oil like CR do so it is a personal descision. I don't have one and don't plan to add one to my current truck (2002 F350 7.3) but I did run one on my 2004.5 Common Rail Cummins powered Dodge. I changed the oil based on the normal 7500 mile interval and changed the bypass once a year or so.
 
Synthetics and bypass filtration are great tools for extending your OCIs. But if you cannot, or will not, do that, they are a large waste of money.

You'd be fine with 5k mile OCIs with any quality brand name conventional oil you can find on sale. That engine will far outlast the rest of the truck.
 
With the short OCI, I don't think you'll need bypass filtration.

We Cummins diesel guys are all the same; we just can't resist turning up the wick. I have a Superchips tuner on mine, and always run it on the high-performance cal. I also have a boost fooler and adjustable boost control, and have it set to run 26 psi. One of these days, I'll probably get around to getting RV275 injectors. Oh yeah, then I want a bigger turbo, and, and,...
 
Originally Posted By: Ilian
Thank you all. I updated my signature.
My truck is almost stock, with the addition of Bosch 275 RV injectors and 4" exhaust (post turbo).
I have gone to 5000 miles o one of the oil changes.
Fleetguard Stratapore. LF 3894 was the model I think.
I use Fleetguard sock air filter with OEM box- everything is OEM on the intake side. I'm trying to keep my engine and truck as clean as possible. And I also am trying to keep my truck for a long time too.
The only negative thing I know is short trips- often, so sometimes 6~7 start ups and shut down per day.
Knowing that, is regular Rotella, Delo, Valvoline... CJ still perfectly ok to use for me?
Do I need to consider an oil bypass filtration?
Thanks again.
Ilian


If you're doing mainly short trips you may want to consider Rotella T5 10w30 instead of the regular 15w40.
 
The '02 Cummins Ram I had was a great truck-but it really liked 2-stroke at around 200:1 in the fuel to lubricate the VP44 (due to the lower fuel lubricity of ULSD)-in my opinion ANY name brand diesel oil would allow the engine to outlast the body-and mine started so well cold that 15W40 was fine even below 0F!
 
Thank you all so much.
ib 516, just FYI the LF 16035 you are referring is the same filter as the 3894 I was talking about with the exceptions of the flutes on the end of it.
Both of them have the same "interior"- Stratapore.
Is synthetic oil better on start ups?
 
Originally Posted By: Ilian
Thank you all so much.
ib 516, just FYI the LF 16035 you are referring is the same filter as the 3894 I was talking about with the exceptions of the flutes on the end of it.
Both of them have the same "interior"- Stratapore.
Is synthetic oil better on start ups?
If you live where you have to cold start the engine at below freezing temps.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: Ilian
Thank you all so much.
ib 516, just FYI the LF 16035 you are referring is the same filter as the 3894 I was talking about with the exceptions of the flutes on the end of it.
Both of them have the same "interior"- Stratapore.
Is synthetic oil better on start ups?
If you live where you have to cold start the engine at below freezing temps.


Agreed. Like ubber cold. Typically there are significant cold-pump and flow performance differences when below -10 deg F for a 15w40, or -20 deg F for a 10w-30. If that's not a problem in lower CA, then conventional oil will do just as well and serve your ride for a LONG time.
 
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I use Rotella T6 on my '04 HPCR (305/555 engine) as it turns over more easily than on the 15w40 formulation, even here in hot as Hades South Texas. I stick with BALDWIN filters as they're easy to get locally, and do 6k/6-mos OCI (I also change air & fuel filter at same time).
 
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 305/555. Amsoil AME 15w40 and Donaldson ELF7349 oil filter. I do 25,000 miles between oil changes. On my fifth oil change with this method.
 
Thanks. Is the Donaldson ELF 7349 the correct part# for my 2002 Dodge , 5.9l Cummins? If so where is the best place to buy those? I will try them as it seems they are even better than Fleetgard Stratapore filters. I hope they are not longer, as it will be harder to install.
Ilian
 
The Donaldson is the same size as the other filters, so you should have no clearance issues. It is not fluted so you need to find another way to attack it. If just google the part number you will find plenty of places to get it pretty cheap.
 
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