Oil for commuter - 95 Civic

[JZiggy]

I recently picked up a 95 Civic with 200k on it, 1.5L 5speed. Needed a little TLC like tie rod ends, timing belt/water pump, valve adjustment, etc. It now consistently gets 40mpg and doesn't seem to have much oil consumption (maybe a couple oz over 1500 miles). I use it for a daily commute of 60 miles at mostly 65-70 mph, minimal city driving.

I would like some recommendations for oil, filter, and the change intervals.

I currently have a stash of PureONE filters (thanks, Amazon sale and rebate bonut hookup!). How long can I comfortably go with these? Factory service manual recommended 7500 miles?

I'm going back and forth between two options. Option 1 - buy whatever name-brand 5w30 oil is on sale and run it for 5000. This would translate into an oil/filter change about 3 times a year. Option 2 - get some more Amsoil ASL (My Accord uses this), run it for 15k with one filter change @ 7500 or possibly @5000 and @10,000.

Thoughts? Opinions? Fistfights?

 

[scurvy]

With your commute and how that mill is easy on oil, I'd run whatever 5w30/5w20/10w30 (heck even 15w40 in the summer months in GA) on sale with a filter for under $20 and change it twice a year.

 

[volk06]

If your going for 5000 mile oil changes Mobil Super is the way to go. Guarenteed for 5000 miles and is the cheapest brand name oil out there for 12.00/5qts at walmart. Mobil Super High mileage is a syn-blend and only $13.50/5qts. Either oil with a Pure one is less than a $20 oil change for a good oil and good filter.

 

[JZiggy]

Sounds like the Mobil is a good option. I don't have an idea of how it stacks up against Castrol, Pennzoil, etc...

How long would you run a Super High Mileage + PureONE combo at those conditions? 7500 mi/6 months?

 

[volk06]

The MSHM is also guaranteed to 5000 miles. It seems the only different is the base oils, super being conventional and super HM being a blend. Here is a used oil analysis of the regular super. The title says Clean 5000 which is the older version but the formula is the new super with the titanium in it. Although the magnesium is most likely from the HDEO he ran in it the previous fill.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mobil-clean-5k-5w30-5700-mi-07-subie-forester.155266/

 

[addyguy]

I'll go against the grain a bit here....

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 for maximum fuel economy on your highway commute. Change every 10-12k or six months. Reasonably inexpensive when bought on sale.

 

[bepperb]

Use the filter for at least 7500. I'm not sure when the Honda "filter every other change" started, I assume it was with the D series but it could have been before then. I had an 86, then an 01, didn't have anything in that era.

Personally, I'd use whatever "on sale" conventional you can get for 5000, or a cheap synthetic for 7500. Actually, I'd probably run either for 7500. Brands really won't matter for your car.

 

[JZiggy]

Great advice, guys.

When I had the valve cover off, I noticed it had a good deal of varnish (not sludge), probably from 200k of conventional. Do you think an engine flush is a good idea at this point? Rear main seal has a little baby drip, but that'll be changed when it gets a clutch in the next few years.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: JZiggy
When I had the valve cover off, I noticed it had a good deal of varnish (not sludge), probably from 200k of conventional. Do you think an engine flush is a good idea at this point?


Absolutely not. Varnish is cosmetic. Keep using mineral oil, no need for synthetic in this application - especially if 200k on mineral oil has it only varnished under the valve cover.

 

[JZiggy]

Aww c'mon... aren't you supposed to be able to eat off of it??

 

[Astro14]

Originally Posted By: scurvy
Originally Posted By: JZiggy
When I had the valve cover off, I noticed it had a good deal of varnish (not sludge), probably from 200k of conventional. Do you think an engine flush is a good idea at this point?


Absolutely not. Varnish is cosmetic. Keep using mineral oil, no need for synthetic in this application - especially if 200k on mineral oil has it only varnished under the valve cover.


+1 - don't try to fix what ain't broke...

 

[JZiggy]

Originally Posted By: Astro14
+1 - don't try to fix what ain't broke...


I'm an engineer, I thought that was my job!

Thanks for the input, everyone. I think I will stick to the PureONEs, good quality on-sale conventional oil, and change it at 7500/6mo.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Dino 7500/6mo, Syn 12000/12mo.