Oil for 2010 BMW 650i with N62 engine

[Vaca]

I recently picked up a 2010 BMW 650i on Bring a Trailer and am currently using Mobil 1 FS 0w-40. It was well cared for and had ~43,000 miles. It's up to 45,000 now. Car is usually in Pennsylvania and NJ, sometimes in SC.

I am fully aware of the potential problems with this engine such as the valve stem seals, oil seal under the alternator bracket, the coolant transfer pipe, etc. I've already changed the two CCV vents as a precaution and the originals were both pristine, but replaced anyway since I already had the new ones. The inside of oil cap is also pristine for what that's worth.

Anyway, as far as the oil to use, I'm pretty sure the M1 FS 0w-40 is the way to go, but have two questions: First, might M1 FS 5w-30 or 5w-40 be slightly better? They both have slightly higher flash points and perhaps a lower Noack. Apparently these engines run hot. And two is LL-01 (like the M1 FS oils) the way to go, or would LL-04 be better?

Here is a picture of the oil sticker under the hood which specs "BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil Part No. 07.51-0 002 545. A quick search shows that this is a 5w-30 LL-04 oil, but I am not sure of that.

I already use M1 FS 0w-40 in several other cars like a Boxster, an old e30, and a Lexus with the 2JZ engine and would like to keep it simple if possible, but want to delay the valve seal issue if another oil might be better.

Thanks in advance!

 

[edyvw]

Stick to 0W40 FS.

 

[tvaughn]

Mobil 1 0w40 is BMW LL-01 approved!

 

[chris719]

PP Euro 5W-40 is a good option, also Ravenol VST. If you want LL04 I like Ravenol VMP or Motul X-Clean Gen 2 5W-40. However, I doubt any of these oils are meaningfully better than M1 0W-40 changed frequently. I think M1 ESP X3 or X4 are the best M1 oils now but they don’t carry BMW approvals and if you’re going to deviate you might as well go boutique. I’d rather use M1 FS 0W-40 and use the money to change it as often as possible in this engine.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

I recently picked up a 2010 BMW 650i on Bring a Trailer and am currently using Mobil 1 FS 0w-40. It was well cared for and had ~43,000 miles. It's up to 45,000 now. Car is usually in Pennsylvania and NJ, sometimes in SC.

I am fully aware of the potential problems with this engine such as the valve stem seals, oil seal under the alternator bracket, the coolant transfer pipe, etc. I've already changed the two CCV vents as a precaution and the originals were both pristine, but replaced anyway since I already had the new ones. The inside of oil cap is also pristine for what that's worth.

Anyway, as far as the oil to use, I'm pretty sure the M1 FS 0w-40 is the way to go, but have two questions: First, might M1 FS 5w-30 or 5w-40 be slightly better? They both have slightly higher flash points and perhaps a lower Noack. Apparently these engines run hot. And two is LL-01 (like the M1 FS oils) the way to go, or would LL-04 be better?

Here is a picture of the oil sticker under the hood which specs "BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil Part No. 07.51-0 002 545. A quick search shows that this is a 5w-30 LL-04 oil, but I am not sure of that.

I already use M1 FS 0w-40 in several other cars like a Boxster, an old e30, and a Lexus with the 2JZ engine and would like to keep it simple if possible, but want to delay the valve seal issue if another oil might be better.

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 258878

All motor oils are required to be compatible with seals. The issue with this particular engine was the choice of seal material. Anyways M1 0w40 to keep things simple for your fleet.

LL04 is an approval for diesel and gas engines using low sulphur fuel and DPF/OPF/TWC. You could use it as well since the US moved to ULSG in 2020 but there's no reason to complicate things. M1 0w40 for everything.

 

[Vaca]

Yeah, thanks everyone for being an extra set of eyes for me. I'm going to stick with the M1 FS 0w-40 and keep it simple and change it relatively often, like twice a year which will likely be between 5000 and 7000 miles.

 

[Silverado12]

Rotella for the win (just kidding but what I would do probably).

 

[Marcozi]

Yeah, thanks everyone for being an extra set of eyes for me. I'm going to stick with the M1 FS 0w-40 and keep it simple and change it relatively often, like twice a year which will likely be between 5000 and 7000 miles.

Make sure you buy only oil filters made by the supplier of oil filters to BMW. According to FCP Euro, Hengst is the original equipment supplier.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-engine-oil-filter-oem-e203h03d67

 

[Vaca]

Make sure you buy only oil filters made by the supplier of oil filters to BMW. According to FCP Euro, Hengst is the original equipment supplier.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-engine-oil-filter-oem-e203h03d67

Yes, agree, I'm using Hengst right now and would also be comfortable using Mann in the future. I've also been using Hengst in the flat six in my Porsche for many years.

 

[edyvw]

Yes, agree, I'm using Hengst right now and would also be comfortable using Mann in the future. I've also been using Hengst in the flat six in my Porsche for many years.

Mann is mostly OE supplier, then Mahle, then is less instances Hengst as well as lately UFI.

 

[f355spider]

Mann is mostly OE supplier, then Mahle, then is less instances Hengst as well as lately UFI.

They are all virtually interchangeable Mann, Mahle, and Hengst. I have never had an issue with any of them in my BMWs, and simply purchase which ever is least expensive.

UFI is a new thing...but were OEM in older Ferraris like the Testarossa, 308, 328 and I never had issues, except for a recall they had around 2002 over an o-ring design change that leaked. They fixed it promptly though.

 

[f355spider]

Yes, agree, I'm using Hengst right now and would also be comfortable using Mann in the future. I've also been using Hengst in the flat six in my Porsche for many years.

The later N63tu2 and N63tu3 use Mahle as oem from BMW. Surprisingly it is significantly cheaper to get the BMW boxed one, than the Mahle aftermarket.