oil filter relocation kit, are they any good?

[synergy_58]

Hello everyone, and thanks again for all the wonderful responses on my last post!

I posted a reply to my last post, but I was affraid that my new question might not get seen. So, here it is again. Hope you guys can help me with this one as well.

The oil filter location on my Toyota Tacoma v-6 is in a very tight spot. In fact, I don't think I can change it myself in it's present location.
It has been suggested to me to install an "oil filter relocation kit" by Performance Products. This would place the filter in a location that would make it easier for me to do.

I'm concerned about the oil pressure and the fact that it will add one more quart of oil to the sump.
What do you guys think about this kit?
Will it help or hurt my performance?
Will it affect my warranty?
With adding another quart of oil to the sump, would I safely be able to, or should I even change my oil change intervals? (From 5,000k w/synthetic.)
By adding another quart of oil to each oil change, I'll increase the cost of each change, so is it worth doing?

It cost $58.95 plus shipping and I know a mechanic that can install it for me.

Thanks again guys!!! Looking forward to your responses.
Judy

 

[QuadDriver]

A relocator is always a good idea....it will even let you run a dual filter setup or a bypass filter setup:

dual filter means you get 2 full flow filters. This way each minute, more of the oil gets filtered instead of running thru the bypass in the pump/filter.

bypass filter setup (not to be confused with the oil bypass) means you run one regular filter and one 'tight' filter that traps even smaller particles.

Use the largest hoses you can and try to use hoses with suaged ends rather than clamped.

the extra quart (or more) of sump capacity is a good thing.

when installing a remote filter thingy, it is also a good idea to install an oil cooler, and often now quite easier.

 

[jsharp]

The kits from Performance Products are the same as the PermaCool kits from Summit Racing except the kits from Summit cost less. I installed one on my 4Runner and it works fine. They use a large Ford FL-1A type filter and you end up with about 1/2-1 quart more capacity and more brand choices.

One thing about the kits, they come with barbed fittings and rubber lines. I didn't care for those since I had the same kit on my Pathfinder and the lines end up leaking sooner or later. I bought stainless covered hose and an fittings this time and it's been leak free now for 2 1/2 years.

IMO, it's best to buy the oil filter adapter and remote mount from Summit as loose parts and buy the lines and fittings etc. all as separate parts. If I was going to do it again I'd use the Aeroquip "socketless" hose and fittings instead of the stainless braided variety. It's lighter, cheaper, easier to work with, and the fabric overbraid looks more OEM.

If you want to see the install on my truck go here -

http://www.webshots.com/search?query=jsharpscs&new=1

Make sure your mechanic knows he'll need to make up hoses, fabricate a bracket to secure the remote filter mount, etc.

PM me if you have any questions about what I did on mine. I still haven't decided if it was worth doing but now that it's done I'm happy with it. It's not perfect though - I still have to pull the skidplate to change the oil and filter for instance...

 

[jsharp]

quote:

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Originally posted by Gary Allan:
Somehow, engineers appear to have a problem with open space. They apparently like to see a full engine bay (visions of a bunch of sensless plastic pieces).

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What's with that these days? All these cheapo looking plastic parts instead of being able to see the engine. Grrrr......

 

[Gary Allan]

I'm pretty much with the other two posters here. I have a 10.5 quart capacity on my 4.0 jeep. I too use stainless braided hoses with AN to SAE adapters and use the PermaCool Ford setup.

Don't worry about most of your concerns there. Added capacity is a good thing ..no matter how you slice it. Just make sure that you have a viable location to relocate your filter(s) to. It's not as easy as you would think ..at least without some creativity. Somehow, engineers appear to have a problem with open space. They apparently like to see a full engine bay (visions of a bunch of sensless plastic pieces).

Try and NOT mount your filters higher than the OEM location. You may not have drain back if you have good ADBVs on your filters ..but you may drain forward. You will also empty the lines, which have nothing to stop them from draining back. I had to install SS check valves to prevent this effect.