Oil filter for turbo engines?
- Thread starter luckystryke
- Start date
I do this. I see no reason why it would not work.
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- Feb 25, 2026
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- 64
Stick to the outside of the canister?
Oil filters aren't restrictive enough to really matter unless you're at redline line in track use and the engine oiling system is a borderline design to start with ... then it might make enough difference to really matter. Street cars toodling around in normal driving situations aren't flowing as much oil to the system as if it was at or near redline. A few PSI of dP difference at 5 GPM (normal driving RPM) isn't going to matter to the engine.
Get a Carquest Premium or a MicroGard Select or an STP XL. All nice oil filter built through Premium Guard Inc (PGI).
Sounds like a bad oiling system design to me, where it was too sensitive to cold thicker oil. The flow volume of any engine at low RPM isn't really much, so if an oil filter actually made an engine sound differently due to "flow", then something else is going on, like the oil pump relief isn't set property or the oil pump was weak. Pretty much every engine can use many different oil filters and they never make any different noises because pretty much every oil filter flows about the same. Filters will have more dP vs flow difference the thicker the oil is, but from the dP vs flow data I've seen on some filters, the dP wouldn't be huge at low RPM like after a cold start.
I bought a couple micro selects, does look impressive.
Bought one for an o8w car, and the filter has identical elongated holes(attention to detail)
Magnets only work on spin-on oil filters.
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- May 9, 2023
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Microgard Select is all I use now
It’s on my F150 as well as my FJ
It’s on my F150 as well as my FJ
I reviewed a number of delta P tests on oil filters and they typically are very small. However if someone was looking for more holes in the plate, using flow rate data on stock Chevy LS oil pumps for Gen 3 and Gen 4 V-8 engines, the flow rate starts at 4 GPM and climbs to 6.8 GPM at 6000 rpm. There are filters out there with only a half dozen small holes but I came across one filter with 13 holes ( unlucky?) with a total cross sectional area of 1 square inch. That is more than the cross sectional ID of the screw on port at the engine block which is 0.75 square inches. The filter is a Motomaster OE plus which is a clone of the Champ XL. Unfortunately Champ is on its way out after the First Brands troubles. Attached is a shot of a OE Plus 10060 oil filter for Chevy LS engine. Again, it’s just available data and not directly applicable to the OP.
Mods, I used a screen shot from Melling to show flow rate data.
Mods, I used a screen shot from Melling to show flow rate data.
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Show us a photo of the top of the filter you are currently using.
Who proved this?
Filtermag - sticks to outside, reuse for like ever. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/magnetic-drain-plug-truly-worth-it.404346/post-7510396 the 2nd picture is from my Sequoia over 21 years ago. Every time I cut a filter it has the small marks from the magnets. Same stuff you find on the magnetic drain plugs.
You just need to order correct diameter range, measure your filter as it comes in like 3 sizes for different diameters. I've only had one (not both sides) on all my filters since then. Not cheap initially but fits, works, and mine last as long as the car. Multiple 200k, 13-15 year old vehicles in the salt belt.
As for the OEM vs Aftermarket, I like Carquest Premium at this point for my vehicles. Easy to get at AAP 1 mile away or from Rock Auto.
Now - my daughter-in-laws Hyundai Tucson is running factory oil filter, from local dealer, her name on the paperwork. Fear mongering, who knows? Hyundai motor issues are a real thing. She has 5 years and 70k to go under warranty. The Hyundai/Kia filters from Mann+Hummel look great when I cut them apart. It filters to whatever Hyundai approves of and they use for all cars they service. One less thing for me to worry about. All receipts go in the folder. If it's a thermal receipt it may also get a picture on my phone or a scan to computer. Easier to start when new as a habit and hopefully never need them as proof.
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It's OEM filter as it just has 5k miles on it
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2026
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There are multiple videos on YouTube ranking filters and Toyota is always close to the bottom
Meh. I wouldn't rely on them as an example of real world usage.
Stock GM LS oil pumps don't put out much oil flow compared to some other engines. Visually looking at different base plate holes it's hard to get a real indication of the flow difference between them, but visually anyone will conclude that bigger and more holes will make a big difference in flow, but with a positive displacement oil pump on an engine it won't make much of a real difference unless you're at max pump flow like in a racing type of driving situation. Like mentioned, about every oil filter will have a base plate inlet hole area that's more than the flow area of the filter mount spud.
You'd have to flow test different base plates or do a good flow dP calculation to get the actual difference between base plate designs. The difference between one that looks "choked down" to one that looks "wide open" would give the most difference, which might only be around 3-4 PSI of dP difference at 10 GPM with hot oil at 10 cSt viscosity. Base plates that lots of big holes like that AC Delco will sell more filters due to the visual indication of being "free flowing".
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It would interesting to see some flow numbers for other engines such as Ford, and Ram Hemi V8’s. Also I believe the flow on the Chevy Gen 5 is more also than the Gen 4.
Exactly!Real world usage metric: If the engine didn't blow-up and "still runs good" then it's a good oil filter … same with oil.
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- Feb 25, 2026
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So the carquest premium is the best choice? What about filters that the bypass is at the top and not the dome? Are those better?
