Oil Changes for New Sludger.

[Gene K]

I have a new truck with an engine (Mopar 4.7L V8) that at least prior to the 2008 Update was a suspected sludger. The truck has an OLM and a max service interval of 6 months or 6,000 miles.

Complication 1: I have 6 Oil Change Coupons from the dealer to use up. The dealer uses MOPAR Oil and Filters (Pennzoil conventional and Purolator).

Complication 2: I have a couple of cases of Mobil 1 5W20 SM/GF4.

Im thinking:
1. MOPAR ( Pennzoil Conventional and Purolator) - 3,000 OCI (First 18,000 Miles).
2. Mobil 1 and MC FL820S - OLM (6,000 Max) or 6 months.

Any thoughts?

 

[chubbs1]

Will the dealer change the oil when you want? I am weird but I kind of have the same deal and I stagger the oil changes (1 dealer change, one of my changes with the oil I want). I feel more comfortable that way but it is just my opine.

 

[beast3300]

Dealer changes for 18months at 3k sounds like a great plan. Pennzoil will get the gunk out.

 

[electrolover]

sounds like a good plan but i would lower the oci to 2k with Pennzoil conventional. it should absorb all the sludge it can hold by 2k shouldnt it?

 

[Gene K]

Guys Its a NEW Truck! Im not trying to dissolve sludge. Im just trying to avoid it. I dont even know that the 300-310 bhp version has an issue like the 235-265 bhp version.

 

[Gene K]

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Will the dealer change the oil when you want? I am weird but I kind of have the same deal and I stagger the oil changes (1 dealer change, one of my changes with the oil I want). I feel more comfortable that way but it is just my opine.


Yes. Its essentially just 6 prepaid oil change "Coupons" with a 3 year expiration date. You can order the actual book or the dealer can just look it up in the computer.

We were down to a $200 difference in price and he wouldnt come off any more so the "36 Months Free Maintenance" is what I got. The truck was 14 months and 2700+ miles since the Build Date (with no proof of oil change) so I brow beat him into doing an additional free oil change.

 

[tig1]

I think you OC plan is fine.

 

[chubbs1]

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Will the dealer change the oil when you want? I am weird but I kind of have the same deal and I stagger the oil changes (1 dealer change, one of my changes with the oil I want). I feel more comfortable that way but it is just my opine.


Let me add the method to my madness, I don't do it just for fun, the reason I suggest staggering them is to actually SEE the condition of the oil. If the dealer does all of your changes first you can't take a "look" at what is going on. Eg. About 5 months ago I changed out the dealer oil at 2500mi. it's physical shape was that of chocolate milk...well I looked at the coolant level, it was down. I filled it back up (along with MY oil) The coolant level dropped again I brought it to the dealers attention told him the problem to make along story short I got the necessary work done on Honda's dime. No joking.

 

[stxonall8]

I'm liking your thinking, but you can stretch your oci to 4-5k even with Pennzoil conventional. Maybe have them do the first one at 1000 mi.

 

[rshunter]

Originally Posted By: stxonall8
Maybe have them do the first one at 1000 mi.

The truck already has more than 2700 miles on it.

It was no doubt a demo model. That just means that it was a "company car" for a dealer staff member.

 

[chet2]

i would go with the best oil you have, M1, but it does not really matter

 

[Superbuick96]

I have a friend who has an 02 Dodge Ram with the 4.7, he never had sludge problems. He keeps a large stash of Pennzoil Conventional in his unheated garage year round. He drives 90%city 10% highway, frequent short trips, and follows a 4K OCI, which usually takes him around 12-14 months or so. He has no sludge probs in his 4.7, but is senario would erk me if where my Ram. If not changing anything else I would atleast keep my large oil stash in a climate controled area. Seeing how much oil he has in storage sitting in a unheated garage and only using 6 quarts a year seems wrong.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: Gene K
Guys Its a NEW Truck! Im not trying to dissolve sludge. Im just trying to avoid it. I dont even know that the 300-310 bhp version has an issue like the 235-265 bhp version.


lol sorry man, sounds like you have it figured out then. i would use the Pennzoil Conventional and pure with confidence at 3k intervals before using your own oil

 

[Gene K]

Originally Posted By: rshunter
Originally Posted By: stxonall8
Maybe have them do the first one at 1000 mi.

The truck already has more than 2700 miles on it.

It was no doubt a demo model. That just means that it was a "company car" for a dealer staff member.


It has a complicated history. From a Northern Dodge Dealer (Closed Down) to a Chrysler Holding Area to an Arkansas Dodge Dealer to become a dealer transfer "swap" for a North Alabama Dodge Dealer. It was never officially a Demo because they have to be titled in the dealers name now and then sold as a used car. It appears it was driven during the various transfers.

It is kind of strange to buy a truck in the South that came with a block heater.

 

[Gene K]

It appears that consensus is that both the 3,000 mi OCI with Pennzoil Conventional and 6,000 mi OCI with M1 will be "Safe".

My commute takes 25 minutes and is 15.5 miles each way (Speed Limits range from 30 mph to 70 mph with 3 Stop Signs and 8 Taffic Lights) so I dont think it falls into the Short Trip / Severe Duty Category.

I expect to put on at least 1,000 miles a month.

PS The M1 stash is stored at a consistent 68-74 Degrees.

 

[95busa]

I had an 05 Ram 4.7. Got it with about 46K, sold it with 86K. Never had sludge issues. Ran 5w30 Trop Art for a while, then 0w30 M1. Ran a PH8A sized Wix filter or Fram Toughguard. Changed PCV Valve every 10K, and ran a K&N air filter with a Superchips tune. Truck stayed outside in Minnesota winters, 2.5mile commute to work, 190 mile drive to and from drill once a month. I think the PCV valve is key in these trucks. You will see orange emulsification in the oil fill area due to PCV valve having a very long run from the back of the passenger valve cover to the front of the engine. Keep that thing clean, frequent oil changes (@3K) in very cold conditions or short run driving, and you will be fine. Great engine, smooth, decent power. I found it to be lacking a bit on a QC 4x4 Ram, even with 3.91 gears (especially on the highway, not bad in 1-3 gears).

 

[infecto]

I really can not see any reason to not follow the OLM / manufacturer OCI recommendation, with whatever oil is spec. Do whatever makes you feel best but running Pennzoil Conventional 5-6k miles should not create a sludge problem.

 

[UNC017]

Originally Posted By: Gene K
It appears that consensus is that both the 3,000 mi OCI with Pennzoil Conventional and 6,000 mi OCI with Mobil 1 will be "Safe".

My commute takes 25 minutes and is 15.5 miles each way (Speed Limits range from 30 mph to 70 mph with 3 Stop Signs and 8 Taffic Lights) so I dont think it falls into the Short Trip / Severe Duty Category.

I expect to put on at least 1,000 miles a month.

PS The Mobil 1 stash is stored at a consistent 68-74 Degrees.


I'd have to say I agree with the above- both should be fine, so use the dealer changes and then your stash. After that, I'd give Mobil 1 0w20 a good hard look- the Mobil 1 0wXX oils appear to have particularly good base stocks and overall characteristics- poke around the UOA/VOA section and see. Probably not *much* difference from regular 5w20, but then there's not usually a difference in price between 0w20 and 5w20 either. Just a thought.

FWIW, the stories about 4.7 sludge issues are pretty questionable IMO. A lot of them amount to nothing but complaints about a gooey emulsion that used to form in the cold/stagnant area at the top of the long oil filler neck that early versions of that engine had. I've seen the occasional picture of a sludged cam cover area, but I always suspect abuse. I've also seen videos of high-mileage 4.7s operating with a cam cover removed, minimal varnish and sludge, and very healthy oil flow over the cam and followers. The 4.7 "Corsair" (I wish Chrysler would hang onto their cool development code names for engines... like the "Corsair," "Phoenix" v6 and the "Eagle" 5.7 VVT) is an oddball in the engine line now that the Hemi's came along and all the focus went back to pushrod engines, but it got its own Hemi heads and a 75 horsepower increase for the 2008 model year. No, they don't call it a "Hemi" but the combustion chamber design now looks almost identical to a 5.7 chamber. Its a stout little powerplant with a really solidly built bottom-end including a structural main bearing girdle.

 

[Gene K]

I thought the original 4.7L had Hemi-Style chambers accepting a quench pad and the updated 2008+ 4.7L had "slant/squish" chambers.

 

[UNC017]

Originally Posted By: Gene K
I thought the original 4.7L had Hemi-Style chambers accepting a quench pad and the updated 2008+ 4.7L had "slant/squish" chambers.



Maybe I have it backwards, but I thought the newer 4.7 was more similar to the 5.7. Neither one is a pure Hemi, but then a pure Hemi chamber has terrible emissions issues.