Oil Change patterns

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Do you guys have any oil change routines that you do like changing from one oil to another or from one weight to another? For example do you run two M1 changes and then one PP change just to change cleaning packages? This year i am running a M1 AFE 0w-30 in the winter instead of M1 5w30. I am thinking of trying PP 5w30 in the spring just to change it up.
 
Wow, M1 been available for 31 years?


I switch-up my oils a lot. Truck gets Amsoil ASL, SSO, PP, Q TorquePower.

New to me Saturn SL1 gets PYB, Trop-Arctic Syn Blend this weekend, Full Syn in the dead of Winter.
 
I stick with white bottle valvoline, my Oil filter changes almost every other oil change.

However I am running ST right now to flush out some Coolant I spilled in the crankcase changing a gasket.
 
In 20K miles I have used FF till 3K, Valvoline WB at 3K and 6K, Valvoline Syn at 10K, Quaker State HP syn at 15K and tonight I put in a $5 fill(Red Plum rebate)of Quaker State Dino GB. No ill effects from changing all the time. Motor uses no oil. I would rate the Quaker State HP syn the best. Some have been 5w-20 and some have been 5w30.
 
I stay with the same oils and weights for each car I never deviate from manufaturers reccomendation for weight.

BMW X5 gets M1 0w40 EF every 7500 miles

Ford explorer gets Kendall Synthetic 5w30 every 6,000

1998 Honda CR-v and Jetta gets Supertech 5w30 synthetic 6,000 mile change

Honda VTX 1800c gets M1 10w40 4T racing oil every 8000 mile or 1 year.
 
The Fusion gets 5w-20 in the summer months and syn 0w-20 in the winter (spec is 5w-20).
The van was getting the cheapest dino 5w30(usually GTX) and 0w-30 in the winter (spec is 5w30). I am now starting to get into my stash of 0w-30 and it will get it year round for a couple years...but it may get the odd shot of cheap dino if PYB goes on sale.
The truck will get 0w-30 or 40 (spec'd for 10w-30 or 10w-40)XD3 till I run out and by then I am pretty sure the body on that truck will be completely rusted out. Then I will be looking for a donor to put the 22RE into.
I will have to re think my strategy once my 0w-30 stash runs out but that will be a long time yet. I have a feeling it will have some Motomaster F1 syn in the plans but still keeping the 0W's for the winter, just waiting for the next sale to suck me into buying a few cases of oil!
 
Yes. I only have a one car garage and the Mustang occupies it. It's on blocks over the winter.

On the other two cars it's Maxlife Syn 5w30 in the spring and late summer (5-6k OCI). Right before the Mustang is put up, it's synthetic in the outdoor cars for the winter (7-8k).

I'm probably going M1 AFE 0W-30 this winter.
 
For the most part it's been the same every time, each car gets its recommended weight an I try to rotate the stash to use up the older oil first. The only deviation is that this year I'm going with synthetics for the winter in case I can't get to the oil change in January.
 
I stay with Mobil 1 all year long, however, I do change weights. For Colorado, its 10w-30 in summer, 5w30 in fall, Ow-30 in the dead of winter, 5w30 in spring. I like to run the truck and suv formula, because its got a boosted additive pack.
 
Me,I switch around to keep from getting bored. But with all the switching and experimenting,Mobil 1 and Pennzoil yb have worked the best for me.
 
Originally Posted By: Bamaro
Dino summer
Syn winter



I dont understand the reasoning behind that practice.Isnt the Synthetic better for both??
 
Nope.

I ran Mobil 0w-20 for my current car and have generally used Mobil in the past. I've just changed over to Amsoil, so both my cars will now be getting Amsoil 0w-20 year round and Mobil filters.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Bamaro
Dino summer
Syn winter



I dont understand the reasoning behind that practice.Isnt the Synthetic better for both??
It's because winter is super harsh on oil and you need cold flow properties of syn in the winter whereas you might be able to get away with dino in the summer.

I think you should just use Syn year round because even the most costly syn on the market changed at a ridiculously low OCI like 3K miles (5K KM) would still be cheaper than other repairs and/or fuel costs over that vehicles life.

For some reason though we tend to cheapen out on the oil for some reason, yet it does so much and is one of the cheapest costs for the upkeep of your vehicle.
smirk2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Bamaro
Dino summer
Syn winter



I dont understand the reasoning behind that practice.Isnt the Synthetic better for both??
It's because winter is super harsh on oil and you need cold flow properties of syn in the winter whereas you might be able to get away with dino in the summer.

I think you should just use Syn year round because even the most costly syn on the market changed at a ridiculously low OCI like 3K miles (5K KM) would still be cheaper than other repairs and/or fuel costs over that vehicles life.

For some reason though we tend to cheapen out on the oil for some reason, yet it does so much and is one of the cheapest costs for the upkeep of your vehicle.
smirk2.gif



Nicely put into perspective Stevie!
thumbsup2.gif
 
My DD Ranger gets M1 5w30 year round
the Blazer gets Max life syn blend in the summer, and Ive decided to run Max Life full syn in the winter. It will sit for days at a time in the elements, so the full syn should help...
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Bamaro
Dino summer
Syn winter



I dont understand the reasoning behind that practice.Isnt the Synthetic better for both??


Syn flows much better at cold startups and dino is fine for summer when cold flow isn't an issue. Syn is probably overkill for summer use.
 
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