I only drive my car (1987 Buick GNX, 3.8L) to and from shows -May to Oct- and put on about 200 miles per year. The last time I changed oil (I use Red Line oil & K & N filter) was in 2007 and since then put on 2036 miles. My neighbor (who has been working on cars and owned his own garage for over 30 years) said I should change my oil annually because he was required by the GSA to change the oil every year on each of their vehicles (including those with 100 miles since the last change) because of "condensation". When I run my vehicle (even in the winter) it is to operating temp (180 or higher) for about 10 minutes or longer. I am not sure of the condensation question and its impact on oil changes. Any information and direction on what I should be doing will be greatly appreciated.
Oil Change Frequency for antique car
- Thread starter MrZ
- Start date
- Status
Wow 2007. That's too long in my opinion.
I would probably go two years or three max. I would not be starting the car in winter to warm it up. I would just leave the car alone and only start it when you're going to shows or out for a small drive.
I would probably go two years or three max. I would not be starting the car in winter to warm it up. I would just leave the car alone and only start it when you're going to shows or out for a small drive.
Originally Posted By: JC1
Wow 2007. That's too long in my opinion.
I would probably go two years or three max. I would not be starting the car in winter to warm it up. I would just leave the car alone and only start it when you're going to shows or out for a small drive.
x2 to the above. That is a much shorter reply than I could have done.
I personally don't think a synthetic or conventional would matter at this point either.
*Does the car have any oil brand suggestions under the hood? Use that.
Wow 2007. That's too long in my opinion.
I would probably go two years or three max. I would not be starting the car in winter to warm it up. I would just leave the car alone and only start it when you're going to shows or out for a small drive.
x2 to the above. That is a much shorter reply than I could have done.
I personally don't think a synthetic or conventional would matter at this point either.
*Does the car have any oil brand suggestions under the hood? Use that.
Last edited:
I'd do it once a year like I do on my low use F150
The mechanic is lying or brainwashed, they need to make money off customers and are trained that way!
I had a similar situation to yours. I had a Sunday driver with 7,000 miles on the oil and parked 8 years
in the garage and run twice a year for washing outside, etc.
I did UOA last year and got a TBN of 4.8!!(still tons of life in it) All metals low and everything in range!
I was surprised.
Key thing is, do you see water spots on the oil on the dipstick? If so, run the engine for
20 minutes, shut off and check it a week later. If still a problem, check crank case ventilation system
before changing the oil again. I've seen hoses blocked in the middle where oil vapors cooled
and sludged. Fix any coolant leaks into the oil ASAP since there can be a leak into the cylinders too.
Your car is not a 50's to 80's car with lazy crankcase ventilation that allow formations
of blowby products including a weak sulpheric acid that etches babbit bearings, etc.
Only saw that once on an engine rebuild of a 59' Austin Van Danplas limo where the babbit
bearings had fine lines etched across them!
I had a similar situation to yours. I had a Sunday driver with 7,000 miles on the oil and parked 8 years
in the garage and run twice a year for washing outside, etc.
I did UOA last year and got a TBN of 4.8!!(still tons of life in it) All metals low and everything in range!
I was surprised.
Key thing is, do you see water spots on the oil on the dipstick? If so, run the engine for
20 minutes, shut off and check it a week later. If still a problem, check crank case ventilation system
before changing the oil again. I've seen hoses blocked in the middle where oil vapors cooled
and sludged. Fix any coolant leaks into the oil ASAP since there can be a leak into the cylinders too.
Your car is not a 50's to 80's car with lazy crankcase ventilation that allow formations
of blowby products including a weak sulpheric acid that etches babbit bearings, etc.
Only saw that once on an engine rebuild of a 59' Austin Van Danplas limo where the babbit
bearings had fine lines etched across them!
Hi MrZ
Condensation does happen, but it can be run off in 20 minute ride monthly.
Make sure it gets to good operating temp for that few minutes
The oils that exist today can handle the infrequent use of the vehicle.
Yearly change at 200 miles is crazy.
Operate the vehicle and have an oil analysis every 5-8 years or just change it.
Hope you get another 30 years
Condensation does happen, but it can be run off in 20 minute ride monthly.
Make sure it gets to good operating temp for that few minutes
The oils that exist today can handle the infrequent use of the vehicle.
Yearly change at 200 miles is crazy.
Operate the vehicle and have an oil analysis every 5-8 years or just change it.
Hope you get another 30 years
That's a real laugh quoting the GSA, the same agency that so wisely bought thousands of AMC Hornets for its car pool in the 1980's. Use a filter with synthetic media and a silicone ADBV and do an OC every 4 years. The oil in the sump doesn't know its age.
My Alfa gets similar usage but I use a standard Bosch or Donaldson filter that I change out every two years because I don't trust the paper media to last any longer.
My Alfa gets similar usage but I use a standard Bosch or Donaldson filter that I change out every two years because I don't trust the paper media to last any longer.
if it were me, I'd change every couple of years with a quality conventional (PYB/VWB, maybe) and a Wix/Napa Gold/ACDelco. I'd rather see twice the oil/filter changes with an oil/filter combo that costs half as much in this situation. But if you keep using Redline/K and N, I'd still go no longer than 2-3 years. And you have the right idea, only start the engine if it will reach operating temp.
Got any pics of the GNX????
Got any pics of the GNX????
Is the operating temp water or oil? My 2016 Challenger R/T will get up to 195° water temp in about 4'ish miles, it take's the oil over 10 miles to get up to 195°. This is a turbo car, right? I would only start it if I was going to drive it at least 20 miles to get everything up to temp.
Last edited:
Bi-annual changes with HDEO. Simple+cheap protection.
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Wow, this is a perfect opportunity to solve some contention on the board.
A UOA will certainly tell you if the oil is safe for continued use or if it is time to change.
10 years does seem a bit long ...
Listen to this guy. Speculation is just noise in the thread.
Wow, this is a perfect opportunity to solve some contention on the board.
A UOA will certainly tell you if the oil is safe for continued use or if it is time to change.
10 years does seem a bit long ...
Listen to this guy. Speculation is just noise in the thread.
I've gone 5 years in a BBC in a seldom driven vehicle w/o incident. It's all about getting the oil to op temp and then keeping it there for say 1/2 hour at least. It takes a bit to steam the condensate out of the oil. And if it's cold outside, it'll let the sheet metal bits get cold and you loose some oil temp...
I'll bet this car is stored inside, so it does not get real cold anyway... What's the coldest temp in your garage? If never below freezing, your Red Line oil is fine for cold starts. Now just get it up to temp and lay into on a hill or something to get it good and hot
But, as mentioned. You should take a sample and have it analyzed. It's the only way to know. That's a $60K car. Why fool around. Get the oil checked and do as the lab suggests.
I'll bet this car is stored inside, so it does not get real cold anyway... What's the coldest temp in your garage? If never below freezing, your Red Line oil is fine for cold starts. Now just get it up to temp and lay into on a hill or something to get it good and hot
But, as mentioned. You should take a sample and have it analyzed. It's the only way to know. That's a $60K car. Why fool around. Get the oil checked and do as the lab suggests.
Last edited:
1987 is not an "antique".
You could try a "crackle test" ocaisionally, rather than (or as a more frequent supplement to) a full blown UOA, since water is the main potential issue. You could also consider pre-heating your sump, so that your runs get to temperature faster, and maybe look into getting a higher temperature thermostat.
Other possibilities I've seen discussed include removing your filler cap and/or dipstick after a run (with appropriate precautions against dirt ingress) and (bit extreme) bubbling dried air through your oil with an aquarium pump.
I'm on about 5 years on my oil now, but I have no UOA and won't be getting any unless I do it myself, so that doesn't really prove anything.
Also, mine certainly isn't a $60K car. Maybe about $60, but it'd still be worth the same if it was broken.
You could try a "crackle test" ocaisionally, rather than (or as a more frequent supplement to) a full blown UOA, since water is the main potential issue. You could also consider pre-heating your sump, so that your runs get to temperature faster, and maybe look into getting a higher temperature thermostat.
Other possibilities I've seen discussed include removing your filler cap and/or dipstick after a run (with appropriate precautions against dirt ingress) and (bit extreme) bubbling dried air through your oil with an aquarium pump.
I'm on about 5 years on my oil now, but I have no UOA and won't be getting any unless I do it myself, so that doesn't really prove anything.
Also, mine certainly isn't a $60K car. Maybe about $60, but it'd still be worth the same if it was broken.
Last edited:
I've been changing mine every 3 years for awhile and each time I send a sample to Blackstone. Like you I always bring mine up to operating temp for awhile. I average 400 - 500 miles per year. Blackstone report has always come back good and last time they said I would be safe to extend it a year or two based on my numbers and history. I'll go 4 years this time and if still OK go 5 years next time. I was concerned about the filter media lasting so last time (2015) I used a Fram Tough Guard (TG30) with synthetic-blend media.
Antique?! It's 30 years old. It's classic, not really old.
I'd change it every two years if that were my situation.
I'd change it every two years if that were my situation.
I have an 87 GN and average about 2000 miles a year and do annual changes also using Redline. I have a few other classics that I also do annual changes on.
Side note - I like to do my annual change in April so I have the freshest oil for the summer months. Enjoy the GNX - don't save it for the next guy. I have 61k miles on my GN.
Side note - I like to do my annual change in April so I have the freshest oil for the summer months. Enjoy the GNX - don't save it for the next guy. I have 61k miles on my GN.
- Status