Oil as undercoating to slow down rust

[denwood]

C

I am looking at a few videos and reviews the CRC stuff and it seems very good. I'll try to find the equivalent here.

CRC is basically wax, with a few solvents. It's flammable during application and as far as I can tell, has zero actual corrosion inhibitors...it's a water displacer. Pretty much the same as Cosmoline. Noxudol 300/700 are wax based, are not flammable (no VOC) and do actually contain additives to react with rust. They are also under $30/quart if you're spraying with a cavity gun...

 

[BigShug681]

Anyone know of anyplace around the STL area that do this sort of work? I’m tired of my vehicles slowly accumulating surface rust and then it eventually becoming more every winter

 

[doublebase]

I’ve done Fluid Film for years now, problem is you really need to apply it twice a year. And best advice - drive on a dirt road right after for a mile or so, the dirt will set in on the fluid film and add some thickness to it that will add a little stronger barrier. Another thing - use something stronger for your higher exposure areas on the frame, because the fluid film will wash away.

I’m going to try the Cosmoline this year...might buy just a few cans. I do have some fluid film left over, might apply that into some crevices on the frame and doors that are a little harder to reach and need to seep.

There are also plenty of homemade concoctions out there you can find online, ranging from people melting toilet bowl wax rings and mixing it with flaxseed oil and a thinner....to, bar chain oil mixed with a solvent...to, used oil...candle wax and transmission fluid...anti-seize/PB Blaster and white lithium grease (I actually like white lithium grease spray, it sticks, it’s cheap, it stays pliable, it prevents rusts - Ive used it by itself and it’s pretty decent). I’ve used white lithium grease paste and painted it onto the high traffic areas underneath, along with fluid film. Works good, can still see it sticking in the spring.

But all of this ^^^ is a part time job. Nothing is a set it and forget solution. There is no such thing. Not with rust prevention, rust doesn’t rest, it’s working while you are sleeping...and it never EVER STOPS. It just depends how long you’re willing to fight....I think I just discovered a plot for a new Netflix movie.

 

[RedSpider]

Anything oily enough to be sprayed on is usually gone in a few months in my experience. Melted toilet bowl rings mixed with a couple ounces of bar & chain oil works better for me than anything else I have ever tried. Honestly you dont really even need to add the oil if you dont have any on hand, it just helps thin it out a bit and makes it easier to apply. Keep the melted wax hot enough and use an old paint brush to apply it and that beeswax isnt going anywhere. I painted the whole underside of my old Nissan 240sx with it and other than the areas directly over the exhaust, most of the wax was still there multiple years later, even in the wheel wells. I got more life out of that old car than I ever would have if I hadnt treated it, I drove that car in Ohio winters pushing two decades and almost 400k miles, that is unheard of, they were known rust buckets. Anything sprayed on, or various greases and oils I ever applied, just never seem to stick around long, and once I tried the toilet bowl rings, I hardly ever had to touch it up.

 

[denwood]

Mike Sanders Grease is a similar product requiring heating to 80C (very hot) to spray it and once cool (literally seconds) it is done…there is no drying time. It does last a long time under heavy wash conditions…like years. It also does creep a bit under summer hot sun conditions even a few years after application. I just did my daughters CRV with it as I have a 5 gallon pail, and the vehicle is old..2003. Also used it on an A3 TDI and 1990 Westfalia.

I stopped using the Mike Sanders Grease for our higher value cars because the Noxudol 300/700 is much,much easier to spray (but does take 3-4 days to “dry”). I also figure that for 3-4 days, the Noxudol 700 is creeping quite aggressively in seams etc. It never hardens fully, regardless.

The real difference though is the active corrosion package in Nox 300/700z. No home brew, (or 99.9% of other products) takes things up that extra notch with respect to chemistry. If I’m going to spend $200 in materials and 8 hours of labour, I want the make sure the product is not just displacing water, but actively stopping rust.

 

[Donald]

A guy with a youtube channel called mustie1 uses a mix of melted toilet bowl wax rings and bar and chain oil to treat the under side of his vehicles. He's shown how it holds up and it seems to last pretty well for several years in New Hampshire winters.

He heats up the oil/wax mix and sprays it on with a fluid film gun.

If in New Hampshire he should just go to NH Coatings.

 

[RobbyDawg]

Anything oily enough to be sprayed on is usually gone in a few months in my experience. Melted toilet bowl rings mixed with a couple ounces of bar & chain oil works better for me than anything else I have ever tried. Honestly you dont really even need to add the oil if you dont have any on hand, it just helps thin it out a bit and makes it easier to apply. Keep the melted wax hot enough and use an old paint brush to apply it and that beeswax isnt going anywhere. I painted the whole underside of my old Nissan 240sx with it and other than the areas directly over the exhaust, most of the wax was still there multiple years later, even in the wheel wells. I got more life out of that old car than I ever would have if I hadnt treated it, I drove that car in Ohio winters pushing two decades and almost 400k miles, that is unheard of, they were known rust buckets. Anything sprayed on, or various greases and oils I ever applied, just never seem to stick around long, and once I tried the toilet bowl rings, I hardly ever had to touch it up.

I like it! Wax rings are dirt cheap…gonna try this for my truck frame. Will continue to use bar and chain for harder to reach areas on the underside, and KL73 (Krown) inside body panels.