I had my mom's 92 MPV out driving around tonight and I felt it, torque converter shudder. Feels like you're driving over a rumble strip. It occurs right when it goes into lockup. It doesn't do it all the time however. It usually engages lockup with a bit of a thump, but sometimes it does do the shuddering. Do these vans use Ford transmissions? I had a 93 Crown Victoria with an AODE that was starting to to the same thing. The recommended procedure there was a full drain and flush, new filter then refill with Mercon V fluid. I don't know how it goes with these vans. I also notice what seems to be a bit of slipping between 1st and 2nd. Maybe the fluid is low? I hauled the dipstick out and there does seem to be fluid on it, but it's just a little smear on the stick. Is it supposed to be a little smear or completely coated when it's up to the proper level? Man I am going to feel like ________ if the transmission goes out on the van since I'm the one who practically recommended the van to my mom.
Oh no, torque converter shudder
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Do a purge/fill with new Mercon-V, and replace the filter and o-ring on the pump pick-up.
Then go from there...
Ford introduced a TSB in 6/06 that recommends Mercon-V to back service all Mercon applications, even ones that previously warned against the usage of Mercon-V.
Then go from there...
Ford introduced a TSB in 6/06 that recommends Mercon-V to back service all Mercon applications, even ones that previously warned against the usage of Mercon-V.
Ford issued a TSB for a Mazda?
I got rid of the Crown Vic a long time ago, I think back in March or maybe it was early June.
Low on ATF, unknown ATF condition, unknown ATF maintenance history,.....and you bought that vehicle.
When the ATF is hot, with vehicle running, on a level surface, the ATF level should read accordingly on the dipstick to the full line. Do you know how to read a disptick? Top it off immediately. Jatco's run best with full ATF level.
The Mazda MPV should be using a Jatco/Nissan box. Use any DexronIII, MerconV, or multivehicle ATF. Depending on transmission PN, the transgo Nissan shiftkit will also help.
Both of your cars need a filter change, pan/magnet cleaning, and a complete flush(machine or cooler line).
When the ATF is hot, with vehicle running, on a level surface, the ATF level should read accordingly on the dipstick to the full line. Do you know how to read a disptick? Top it off immediately. Jatco's run best with full ATF level.
The Mazda MPV should be using a Jatco/Nissan box. Use any DexronIII, MerconV, or multivehicle ATF. Depending on transmission PN, the transgo Nissan shiftkit will also help.
Both of your cars need a filter change, pan/magnet cleaning, and a complete flush(machine or cooler line).
I had an 84 Oldsmobile that you could unhook a solenoid which would essentially disable the lock-up converter and essentially make it a three speed automatic. It ran much better that way.
I would add a bottle of Seafoam Trans Tune or Trans X etc......and drive it around town for a few days never going far from home. Then I would get a filter and fluid for it! After you add the new fluid if it is still shuddering you can try Lucuas Transmission treatment if that does not do it then you are out of luck!
I will add that I have had great results with AUto-Rx in transmissions but it takes a long time to work. Most of the junk that builds up in a transmission is easy to disolve with simple solvents.
I will add that I have had great results with AUto-Rx in transmissions but it takes a long time to work. Most of the junk that builds up in a transmission is easy to disolve with simple solvents.
How about a Lubegard product? I was thinking either Dr Transmission's Instant shudder fix or their automatic transmission protectant might be worth a shot.
I have never tried those products. The only Lube Guard product I have tried is their old Red Bottle stuf for GM DEX II type fluids. It did not fix anything it simply improved the anti-oxidant propierties. No matter what product you use I would use a transmission cleaning product first like SeaFoam Trans Tune! Putting new fluid in a transmission with lots of oxidation based varnish is not going to do much long term. You have to get all the old buildup out first.
The old red bottle LubeGuard stuff worked great in power steering sytems.Even if someone is running synthetic atf in their power system I would recomend this stuff. I have also had good results with SX-UP available from Specialty Formulations and Lube Control.
Its a 14 year old unknown condition transmission.
Don't give the owner something to blame when it does fail which will happen soon. Transmissions don't last long when driven for extended periods of time with low fluid.
Shudder is a simple fix by simple changing the ATF.
If shudder continues with new ATF, then dose it with some lubegard or use a better ATF. Any of the lubegard products could help with shudder. The HFM'd products work best. But, a tired oil transmission doesn't need any more HFM additives in it.
I wouldn't use anything but new atf, a new filter, and the correct level.
Any product in a bottle won't rebuild your transmission.
Get new ATF/filter in it now!
Don't give the owner something to blame when it does fail which will happen soon. Transmissions don't last long when driven for extended periods of time with low fluid.
Shudder is a simple fix by simple changing the ATF.
If shudder continues with new ATF, then dose it with some lubegard or use a better ATF. Any of the lubegard products could help with shudder. The HFM'd products work best. But, a tired oil transmission doesn't need any more HFM additives in it.
I wouldn't use anything but new atf, a new filter, and the correct level.
Any product in a bottle won't rebuild your transmission.
Get new ATF/filter in it now!
I'm kinda leaning towards dirty fluid/filter myself right now. The first 4 shifts are smooth as silk and occur right when they should but but it goes into torque converter lockup is when the problem happens. It doesn't always shudder on lockup, but even when it doesn't it still is a bit, well, harsh.
I hope you get off the stick and perform "The Critic"'s advice because it sounds as though that's exactly what is needed. Use any brand Mercon V for refill. Mercon V was specifically formulated to control juddering at lockup. The old fluid is worn out.
once the old stocks of regular Mercon are gone, Ford will only carry Mercon-V anyway (I'm glad). They rleased an announcement/TSB about this a few months ago...
I heard Ford sells a friction modifier additive specifically for torque converter shudder. Worth a try.
Whenever you encounter torque converter shudder -- in ANY vehicle -- you need to decrease throttle momentarily to keep the converter clutch from trying to lockup! This will typically be during acceleration (light to mild) or when the vehicle might slow down on an incline. Letting the vehicle speed fall below the lockup speed slightly, then using enough throttle to result in a part-throttle kickdown to accelerate past the lockup point at cruise will help things along. THEN, when the desired speed is reached, you can back out of the throttle to let the upshift and lockup take place smooothly as it should. If need be, a manual downshift can be used too, then upshifting when the desired speed is reached.
Once torque converter shudder starts, it's not going to stop until a change in speed/throttle is made. Best to use driving techniques to minimize/stop it rather than waiting for it to stop (which it will NOT). It will generally take a little time for any additives to work, I suspect, rather than them work "instantly".
You'll probably find some torque converter clutch material in the bottom of the transmission oil pan (in addition to normal drivetrain clutch material). Eventually, it could clog the filter and cause other problems.
I'd do the filter change and fluid change and see how things go. Sometimes, new fluid will help things along as ATF degrades just as motor oil and other fluids do with use. Seems like somebody posted that DexronIII fluid is degraded quicker than other ATFs, especially compared to the newer blended-synthetic ATFs? Best to use the correct upgraded fluid than one that needs an additive to make it work--especially on Chryslers.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Once torque converter shudder starts, it's not going to stop until a change in speed/throttle is made. Best to use driving techniques to minimize/stop it rather than waiting for it to stop (which it will NOT). It will generally take a little time for any additives to work, I suspect, rather than them work "instantly".
You'll probably find some torque converter clutch material in the bottom of the transmission oil pan (in addition to normal drivetrain clutch material). Eventually, it could clog the filter and cause other problems.
I'd do the filter change and fluid change and see how things go. Sometimes, new fluid will help things along as ATF degrades just as motor oil and other fluids do with use. Seems like somebody posted that DexronIII fluid is degraded quicker than other ATFs, especially compared to the newer blended-synthetic ATFs? Best to use the correct upgraded fluid than one that needs an additive to make it work--especially on Chryslers.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Update to The Critic's post.
The FORD TSB about Mercon and Mercon V is TSB # 06-14-4
Released on 7/24/2006
Mercon will not be manufactured after July 1, 2007
Mercon V or a fluid that states "Mercon and Mercon V" is to be used in all applications that call for Mercon fluid.
Even when previous information said not to use Mercon V in place of Mercon.
The FORD TSB about Mercon and Mercon V is TSB # 06-14-4
Released on 7/24/2006
Mercon will not be manufactured after July 1, 2007
Mercon V or a fluid that states "Mercon and Mercon V" is to be used in all applications that call for Mercon fluid.
Even when previous information said not to use Mercon V in place of Mercon.
I suspect that Ford is now recommending Mercon-V only for these units solely for availability reasons. My own personal theory for this move is that any damage caused to units containing parts (esp. seals/friction materials) that are truly incompatible with Mercon-V would be very difficult to trace back to the fluid. Most of the units which are vulnerable to serious incompatibilities are well out-of-warranty, and have > 75k on the clock. At this point, it'd be a toss-up in the event of a failure whether the fluid is to blame, or the unit simply wore out. Of course, I'm only referring to the units that come with a stern do not use Mercon-V warning.
I think Ford finally realized that they've licensed the same formulation for both Mercon and Mercon V service more than a few times.
It certainly shows a problem with the Mercon licensing process if a potentially damaging product can get a Mercon license, and the only way you as a customer would ever know is that the same product also carries a Mercon V license
It certainly shows a problem with the Mercon licensing process if a potentially damaging product can get a Mercon license, and the only way you as a customer would ever know is that the same product also carries a Mercon V license
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