I've been rethinking the tragic 3k OCI's I did with M1 and still have all the oil. Is there any way I could construct something to filter like a bypass out of the car before putting the stuff in the crankcase? Silly question, I know....
Off Car filtering?
- Thread starter BrianWC
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Buy a TP filter, set up a tank big enough to hold the oil you want filtered, hook up a small pump and start filtering, circulating back into the tank. Continue until the oil is clean enough to suit your needs, maybe do a UOA. I would reckon the pump needs to be capable of at least 20 psi to get anything meaningful accomplished, rate of flow wouldn't need (or want) to be much though. When you finish you could install the TP filter in a vehicle. Have fun!
Joe
Joe
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Simple home grown version. Get a sump/tank that has a bottom tap. Thread/pipe to MG/Frantz/whatever. Valve tank. Open and drain to clean(ed) sump. When flow stops ..change TP/PT. If you want multipass. Return to top sump.
Let gravity do the work. Totally passive system with no moving parts and, other then changing the TP, no maintenance.
Ideally, you would have the top tank contain no more then the receiving container can hold. Then you don't have to ever worry about overflowing it and having a spill to clean up.
Let gravity do the work. Totally passive system with no moving parts and, other then changing the TP, no maintenance.
Ideally, you would have the top tank contain no more then the receiving container can hold. Then you don't have to ever worry about overflowing it and having a spill to clean up.
There are filter setups to filter oil as such ,new oil would cost way less.
[ April 01, 2006, 12:18 PM: Message edited by: Steve S ]
[ April 01, 2006, 12:18 PM: Message edited by: Steve S ]
i do not think that a "gravity feed" system would do much at all. you are working with about .05 psi on a 10' drop to flow through one of the tightet filters known to mankind. i have seen a waste oil burner affixed to a similar system with dual1 micron filters not be able to keep up with even the smallest oil burner running 6-8 hours a day. best of luck on that one unless you pressurised the holding tank or something.
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How often do you need clean(ed) oil for top up? Does your car consume that much or need to be changed that often? Who cares if it takes 3 days for 4 quarts to make it through the filter?? I can't possibly see where there could be a "keep up" situation here.
The main advantage of the gravity system is that you don't buy the equivalent of several decades worth of new oil in the form of a pump and/or other features.
The gravity system will work and is a very good idea. In fact, it would very good for diesel owners to filter used oil for a blend mix with diesel fuel for there rigs.
But sticking with your question, I have done it a more primative way (filtered used oil) and mixed it with new oil on a 50% mix ratio and its working fine. I had some synthetic oil that was in a car that gave up the ghost....I drained it out filtered it and mixed it with the same type and it worked great.
I don't know if I would go out and buy a bypass filter, but you can set up system with some commercial toliet paper and the gravity flow will be slow and contemplated.
But sticking with your question, I have done it a more primative way (filtered used oil) and mixed it with new oil on a 50% mix ratio and its working fine. I had some synthetic oil that was in a car that gave up the ghost....I drained it out filtered it and mixed it with the same type and it worked great.
I don't know if I would go out and buy a bypass filter, but you can set up system with some commercial toliet paper and the gravity flow will be slow and contemplated.
Very interesting, this might make a good project to build and to collect oil for my lawnmowers and stuff.
I need to hit the hardware store and see if I can make a toilet paper roll holder out of PVC.
I need to hit the hardware store and see if I can make a toilet paper roll holder out of PVC.
A gravity fed system would work - I know because I have tried it. How fast the oil will filter through the TP will depend on variables like temperature and how much higher the center of gravity is of your dirty oil sump compared to the filter. You will get better filtering when your oil moves slowly through the filter because the particles will have more time to attach to the filtering media.
When I threaded a small soup can to a TP and let it gravity feed through the roll it took an entire day to filter through a gallon of ATF. Of course this was in the middle of the winter and the ATF was as thick as syrup.
You will have about 4/10th psi of head for each foot of elevation from the oil level in the tank to the filter.
Using a pump and circulating back to the tank requires at least three full exchanges for good filtering and seven full exchanges for excellent filtering. For example, if you have a 1 gallon per minute pump and 20 gallons of oil, you'd need to run the pump and filter the oil for 60 minutes for good filtering and 140 minutes for excellent filtration. In actuality, you might not get 1 gpm of cold oil through a small TP filter.
Ken
Using a pump and circulating back to the tank requires at least three full exchanges for good filtering and seven full exchanges for excellent filtering. For example, if you have a 1 gallon per minute pump and 20 gallons of oil, you'd need to run the pump and filter the oil for 60 minutes for good filtering and 140 minutes for excellent filtration. In actuality, you might not get 1 gpm of cold oil through a small TP filter.
Ken
I have a parallel Motorguard offline filter that is powered by a Shur-Flo pump. I use it for offline filtration of hydraulic oil. The pumps run around $70 and come in 12v or 120v.
I also have a Frantz filter that I offline filter my motorcycle oil - both get their oil from a tapped drain bolt and return to the filler.
I also have a Frantz filter that I offline filter my motorcycle oil - both get their oil from a tapped drain bolt and return to the filler.
Whould it be better to filter the oil at operating temperature?
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Sure, but I think that it will just flow quicker. I don't think that it being cold will prevent it from flowing/migrating through the tp filter.
I guess you could set it up to go right from the hot engine drain pan ..to the gravity system. That may get the job done faster.
I guess you could set it up to go right from the hot engine drain pan ..to the gravity system. That may get the job done faster.
Okay, tell me what I did wrong - I took a five foot piece of PVC 4 inch pipe, put a cap on the end, and drilled and installed a tap about two inches from the bottom. Next, I put four rolls of Toilet paper inside and hung it from a rafter in my shop, filled it with used oil and waited. About a week later, I went out in the shop, opened the drain and black oil flowed out. What did I do wrong?
What I'd like to know is what happens to the oil soaked toilet paper? Ain't like you can drop those off at iffy lube or AZ or someplace (well, maybe you can who knows). And I'd hope nobody threw them in the trash, that wouldn't be kewl
GreeCguy,
What about the tube down the middle of the rolls? Did you plug that somehow? Also, the oil may require more than a single pass through the TP, maybe even a few dozen passes. The particles that turn oil black are extremely small for even TP to filter out.
What about the tube down the middle of the rolls? Did you plug that somehow? Also, the oil may require more than a single pass through the TP, maybe even a few dozen passes. The particles that turn oil black are extremely small for even TP to filter out.
I think that the best way to do this would be a gravity feed, with a pump fill. Filter by gravity, but have a pump suck the bottom dry once a day and fill up the top. Without a size limitation, I would try some paper towels
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