For eons, I have heard the differences of each type of part and the general consensus has been one should use OE/OEM parts for a job you'd like done once and aftermarket for select items. However, whether due to supply chain restrictions or something else, more and more I see a recommendation to use OE/OEM parts in such things as filters and brake pads. Is there any part on a modern car that folks still use the aftermarket for, or is the general consensus now besides tires, OE or nothing?
OEM/OE vs Aftermarket parts
- Thread starter NismoNVT
- Start date
As a pro, I am very very picky on what parts I will use because I dont want to do the job twice. I will use AM on some chassis parts, some bearings, some brakes, and occasionally other parts. OE/OES only for engine management, rotating electrical, pumps, gaskets. We use only OE/OEM filters as well
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Safety parts, critical components, always OE/OEM.
If you want to be OCD about maintenance, then there isn't a simple answer.
Some aftermarket stuff is better than OEM. Brake pads are a great example. My EHT hybrid pads are both cheaper and work better than the Nissan OEM. Its likely they won't last as long but my pads usually last about 100K+ miles so...
If I go to the Nissan dealer and ask for an OEM air filter they will sell me there value advantage line which is crap. The real OEM filter is pretty good but you have to order it special and its pretty expensive. I have been using Wix for years, but Mann has messed them up, so possibly I am going back to the OEM air filter - haven't decided?
OEM oil filters for both my Nissan and Toyota use a nitrile rubber ADBV. IMHO the ADBV is the most important part of the filter, and i prefer silicone - works better and lasts longer. Not to say the OEM filter is bad, because its fine, just not great.
I also know that most sensors on my Nissan are NTK or Denso - they say so right on them. I can get the same Denso/NTK part for 1/3 the price than from the dealer, so thats a cost question not a quality question.
I went through 3 OEM belt tensioners on my Xterra - 1 under warranty, 2 on my dime, before I replaced that with a gates and forgot about it - so in that case gates was better. On the other side I bought the "best" fan motor rock auto had to sell - it never blew as much air from day one and squealed in less than a year. I actually found a low mile used OEM one from LKQ and its been good for a couple years.
So like I said it depends. However if you just don't want to worry and money is no object, then its doubtful OEM parts will do you wrong.
Some aftermarket stuff is better than OEM. Brake pads are a great example. My EHT hybrid pads are both cheaper and work better than the Nissan OEM. Its likely they won't last as long but my pads usually last about 100K+ miles so...
If I go to the Nissan dealer and ask for an OEM air filter they will sell me there value advantage line which is crap. The real OEM filter is pretty good but you have to order it special and its pretty expensive. I have been using Wix for years, but Mann has messed them up, so possibly I am going back to the OEM air filter - haven't decided?
OEM oil filters for both my Nissan and Toyota use a nitrile rubber ADBV. IMHO the ADBV is the most important part of the filter, and i prefer silicone - works better and lasts longer. Not to say the OEM filter is bad, because its fine, just not great.
I also know that most sensors on my Nissan are NTK or Denso - they say so right on them. I can get the same Denso/NTK part for 1/3 the price than from the dealer, so thats a cost question not a quality question.
I went through 3 OEM belt tensioners on my Xterra - 1 under warranty, 2 on my dime, before I replaced that with a gates and forgot about it - so in that case gates was better. On the other side I bought the "best" fan motor rock auto had to sell - it never blew as much air from day one and squealed in less than a year. I actually found a low mile used OEM one from LKQ and its been good for a couple years.
So like I said it depends. However if you just don't want to worry and money is no object, then its doubtful OEM parts will do you wrong.
Oil, tires, brakes, filters, other wear items, and parts where the OE is known to suck
Most dealers don't even use OEM oil for customer-pay work, just random bulk
Spark plugs are a case-by-case basis. For example, the 3V Ford V8 sucks and uses stupid 2-piece platinum. There are better aftermarket plugs that are either 1-piece platinum, and there is even an iridium out there for it
Engines that are difficult to work on and came with copper or platinum from the factory are instances where upgrading to iridium is a good idea.
Bosch used to make these gimmicky multi-prong spark plugs (NOT the same as OE multi-prong designs). Usually, they are to be avoided, but the waste-spark Toyota 1MZ-FE is the perfect application for them. The Bosch Pt-Ir Fusion is a 4-prong iridium good for at least 100k (factory is a 2-prong platinum only good for 60k), and it's almost impossible to change the rear plugs on a 1MZ.
Aftermarket transmission pans where a drain plug wasn't included from the factory are a good upgrade.
Cars with air suspension always have problems with it. So, a popular aftermarket mod is to convert to coils.
Most dealers don't even use OEM oil for customer-pay work, just random bulk
Spark plugs are a case-by-case basis. For example, the 3V Ford V8 sucks and uses stupid 2-piece platinum. There are better aftermarket plugs that are either 1-piece platinum, and there is even an iridium out there for it
Engines that are difficult to work on and came with copper or platinum from the factory are instances where upgrading to iridium is a good idea.
Bosch used to make these gimmicky multi-prong spark plugs (NOT the same as OE multi-prong designs). Usually, they are to be avoided, but the waste-spark Toyota 1MZ-FE is the perfect application for them. The Bosch Pt-Ir Fusion is a 4-prong iridium good for at least 100k (factory is a 2-prong platinum only good for 60k), and it's almost impossible to change the rear plugs on a 1MZ.
Aftermarket transmission pans where a drain plug wasn't included from the factory are a good upgrade.
Cars with air suspension always have problems with it. So, a popular aftermarket mod is to convert to coils.
I try to use OEM on engine management, ignition, and emissions systems. Sometimes that is not possible, and I use what is available. I usually use aftermarket on batteries, tires, suspension, and brakes.
OEM for electrical sensors, fuel pump, body parts etc. unless it is the same manufacturer with a different box. Suspension, if the vehicle is 100% stock I go with OEM, if not, no. Brakes, only the master cylinder. Hardware, sometimes the dealer is cheaper for an odd sized bolt, Thinking of BMW. Filters, only if I have a coupon or something I have never seen a benefit.
I like the rule of using parts from the same country the vehicle was made. Like Japan parts for Honda, German or Europe parts for a BMW ( I’m aware of the Mexico plants), USA for Ford etc.
I like the rule of using parts from the same country the vehicle was made. Like Japan parts for Honda, German or Europe parts for a BMW ( I’m aware of the Mexico plants), USA for Ford etc.
Owen Lucas
$100 Site Donor 2023
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Ever deal with aftermarket body parts? Headlights, fenders, bumpers. You can easily see the difference in quality. Bumper too wide or too short? Fender all wonky? Normal for aftermarket body parts.
Some of the stuff I own is so old (like my 1998 Nissan Frontier or my 1984 Chevy Cavalier) that neither dealer nor aftermarket parts are available anymore for some of the parts I've needed.
Thankfully, I've been able to find parts on Ebay, either used or NOS.
Thankfully, I've been able to find parts on Ebay, either used or NOS.
Suspension parts and U- Joints spicer only.
Ac parts get sanden,sensor or Visteon.
All these names are usually oe supplier's.
Ac parts get sanden,sensor or Visteon.
All these names are usually oe supplier's.
Suspension parts are usually oe for me.
Filters are usually wix, mobil, fram ultra, or luber finer.
Bearings must be oem, national, or Timken.
Plugs and wires, oem for plugs and either oem, delphi, or Taylor for wires.
Coils, ignition components, ect. Oem or delphi
I've had good luck with Bosch and ntk sensors
U-joints, radiators, brakes, and other stuff are whatever lifetime product autozone, or precision/carquest sells. (Because it's local)
Rockauto is my favorite source for most stuff.
Filters are usually wix, mobil, fram ultra, or luber finer.
Bearings must be oem, national, or Timken.
Plugs and wires, oem for plugs and either oem, delphi, or Taylor for wires.
Coils, ignition components, ect. Oem or delphi
I've had good luck with Bosch and ntk sensors
U-joints, radiators, brakes, and other stuff are whatever lifetime product autozone, or precision/carquest sells. (Because it's local)
Rockauto is my favorite source for most stuff.
Nearly everything I get is generic. Try to get name brand struts for cars I want to keep. Engine controls and spark plugs are some known brand name from a source that isn't Amazon or eBay. I'm like 2StrokeNorthstar, get the same country of origin.
I bought a belt tensioner kit from Rock Auto for my 2006 tacoma. It had the tensioner, idlers, and belt. The brand was Continental. The Belt was Continental, the tension was exactly like OEM, but had some of the OEM numbers milled off other numbers were the same, and the idlers were Koyo exactly like what came off.
There are choices:
- I prefer NOS oem
- used
- name brand aftermarket- I find with GM their oe crap is mexican or chinese, then there is GMs replacement parts tier.
I'm pretty sure that Toy and Honda oe parts are the same part that went in originally. Anyway I usually shop HARD for my parts.
- I prefer NOS oem
- used
- name brand aftermarket- I find with GM their oe crap is mexican or chinese, then there is GMs replacement parts tier.
I'm pretty sure that Toy and Honda oe parts are the same part that went in originally. Anyway I usually shop HARD for my parts.
That's typical. They can't make parts in the USA when the factories don't exist anymore. And a lot of stuff that was once made in the USA was made in Mexico until that got too expensive and then production moved to China.
Being primarily a GM fleet,
OE unless GM makes it in China
Suspension and steering, Moog
Belts, idlers, tensioners, Gates
Gaskets, seals, always OE.
OE unless GM makes it in China
Suspension and steering, Moog
Belts, idlers, tensioners, Gates
Gaskets, seals, always OE.
For me, OE/OES except if OE doesn’t fit the budget. Then it’s “good” quality aftermarket from Rock or parts house.
I’ve ordered a set of TYC headlights for the van, OE Toyota was still around but $200 more for the pair.
I’ve ordered a set of TYC headlights for the van, OE Toyota was still around but $200 more for the pair.
Depends on what I'm working on and what the part is. Sensors, ignition parts, etc I think are critical to be OEM. Filters, brakes, gaskets, etc aftermarket. My old '02 Taurus will get "just good enough" aftermarket axles where as my wife's van would get OEM or premium aftermarket. Sometimes OEM pricing is just not smart, if an assumed OE supplier exists under aftermarket name. Mopar/NTK/Champion. Ford/Melling/Autolite. GM/Bosch... etc.
I recently rebuilt my diff because a mechanic that rebuilt my diff botched the pinion preload, it ruined my original ring and pinion coast side. I rebuilt the diff myself with a crush sleeve elminator, while it made no sound on accel, it made cyclic knock on decel.
I then bought brand new china made gears, and went through the whole process of pinion preload, carrier preload, pinion depth , gear pattern, backlash (very wildly inconsistent backlash btw) . I put it all together and the thing made noise on both accel and decel.
So now here I am back to square -1, ordering OEM gears. My old gear had a maximum backlash variation of 0.05mm, the china made gears had a variation of 0.15mm.
Lets see how it goes when I get the OEM gears.
I then bought brand new china made gears, and went through the whole process of pinion preload, carrier preload, pinion depth , gear pattern, backlash (very wildly inconsistent backlash btw) . I put it all together and the thing made noise on both accel and decel.
So now here I am back to square -1, ordering OEM gears. My old gear had a maximum backlash variation of 0.05mm, the china made gears had a variation of 0.15mm.
Lets see how it goes when I get the OEM gears.
I'd rather use Used OE gear set's than some of the aftermarket crap out there, Though Yukon has really done me well over the years.
