OE alternators

Joined
Jun 28, 2003
Messages
8,791
Location
Illinois
I've never had as good of performance from any rebuild or 'new' alternators. They work but not as good as OE.

So I bought a used OE one with 66k miles for my Genesis Coupe off eBay.. Mine currently has +135k miles and works like a charm.

I think I'll but a new brush pack in.
 
Being a H/K product, I believe a Mando (reboxed Valeo) would've served you well

But your plan is a solid one as well
 
Good luck. I just replaced mine at 60k pretty sure it was reman.Hopefully it’s trouble free
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I have literally had this on one of my Nissan's since 2013. Hundreds of thousands of miles.

Having said that I have been buying lightly used OEM parts from LKQOnline recently - very good prices for lightly used OEM stuff is good.

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I have never seen a legit Bosch alternator reman or new come from China, I believe what you are saying so I did a little research. It seems the the buggers sold out to the Chicoms in 2018, shortly after we had the covid so it may have taken them time to get the crap into the pipeline. I probably will be doing more rebuilding if parts are possible before buying them.

Yep. And it's quite a job to replace in a land rover. Add in the extra diagnosis Time as well as time to swap 3 alternators and it's a losing job.
 
I have always had good luck on my alternators and starters taking mine to a local shop and watching them rebuild them.
 
Getting real tough to find a rebuilder now a days. At least here. The closest is a couple hrs away 1 way
Same here there are none today and most of the parts you can get are cheap crap. With new OE sometimes costing $600-1K OE low mile used is looking like it maybe the best option for many cars.
 
Same thing with my old 1999 Deville.

The alternator went out and my mechanic put a Reman Remy.

After 100 miles, it developed a bearing noise and only properly charged the battery when the headlights were off. Under load, the voltage would dip below 12.6V

Eventually I got a chance to swap it with a used OEM one with 45K miles.

Everything worked perfectly after. And the bearing noise was gone.
 
Unfortunately it is the way of the world now... Alternators for the Honda J35 have doubled/tripled in price over the past 6 - 7 years. I recently spent >$400 for a Napa Reman. Yes, they could be had for cheaper such as something from Rockauto but then you have to deal with the core exchange and hoping whatever you buy will last for more than a couple years. Unfortunately with home/global economic issues, this is what we got to deal with.
 
I have never seen a legit Bosch alternator reman or new come from China, I believe what you are saying so I did a little research. It seems the the buggers sold out to the Chicoms in 2018, shortly after we had the covid so it may have taken them time to get the crap into the pipeline. I probably will be doing more rebuilding if parts are possible before buying them.

Thanks- good to know
 
I'm on my third alternator in the Accent with over 190k miles. First OE one lasted for over 140k and the first replacement never read over 13.8v. Finally dropping to under 13.5v so I replaced it. The one I'm on now runs a little high at 14.7 or so.

Changing it from the top is quite an ordeal. But if I take the oil filter off it can easily come out the bottom.
 
The best way to get a quality and reliable alternator is to buy a high power alternator:






 
In theory, a properly done reman using the OE components should be the best option vs a new made in China unit using questionable parts. Problem is, even the reman business is a race to the bottom as the alternator only needs to last the warranty period. Their primary business is turning these units back ASAP in bulk for repair shops, not necessarily the walk in customer who is likely a DIYer and more demanding.

You really have no idea what kind of parts they are putting in there since OEM components are expensive and it may not make sense for a small shop to try and source, special order, and stock those OE components for every single one off alternator. Especially when customers demand a quick turnaround. Much easier using cheapo generics that fit multiple applications. For example, I doubt any shop would use an OE regulator or diode. The result in that is you may get more ripple current through your electrical system. The value in a small shop is you can talk to the guy building it to figure out what he's putting in there and he's likely more experienced than the guys a big corporation may hire in an assembly line.

IMO the best reman should the manufacturer specific one. Eg if you have a Ford then a Motorcraft reman. Generic rebuilders like Cardone in theory should have their processes in place to maintain more consistency/QC than a small shop but the problem is they have some minimum wage guy who doesn't care putting things together.
 
In theory, a properly done reman using the OE components should be the best option vs a new made in China unit using questionable parts. Problem is, even the reman business is a race to the bottom as the alternator only needs to last the warranty period. Their primary business is turning these units back ASAP in bulk for repair shops, not necessarily the walk in customer who is likely a DIYer and more demanding.

You really have no idea what kind of parts they are putting in there since OEM components are expensive and it may not make sense for a small shop to try and source, special order, and stock those OE components for every single one off alternator. Especially when customers demand a quick turnaround. Much easier using cheapo generics that fit multiple applications. For example, I doubt any shop would use an OE regulator or diode. The result in that is you may get more ripple current through your electrical system. The value in a small shop is you can talk to the guy building it to figure out what he's putting in there and he's likely more experienced than the guys a big corporation may hire in an assembly line.

IMO the best reman should the manufacturer specific one. Eg if you have a Ford then a Motorcraft reman. Generic rebuilders like Cardone in theory should have their processes in place to maintain more consistency/QC than a small shop but the problem is they have some minimum wage guy who doesn't care putting things together.
Your example of using a cheap diode causing more ripple is not valid. A working diode is a one way valve for electricity. A defective diode is either shorted or open. There is no way a working cheap diode can cause more ripple than a working OE diode.

I think the small local rebuild shop will always produce a better rebuild than buying a rebuild through an AZ or RA. The local guy has a reputation to keep up. If he sells you a rebuilt alternator and it goes south he knows you will be back with the non working alternator asking him what happened. I don't think they are out to compete on price with AZ. The local shops I have done business with often swap alternators rather than rebuild yours and make you wait. And some don't focus on the dime a dozen alternators in cars. Rather focus on marine or big truck or heavy equipment alternators and starters. And a good local rebuild shop should have (and know how to use) an oscilloscope.
 
I'm on my third alternator in the Accent with over 190k miles. First OE one lasted for over 140k and the first replacement never read over 13.8v. Finally dropping to under 13.5v so I replaced it. The one I'm on now runs a little high at 14.7 or so.

Changing it from the top is quite an ordeal. But if I take the oil filter off it can easily come out the bottom.
Changing the alternator at every oil change makes oil changes pricey.
 
I have always bought remanufactured factory oem alternators from the car manufacturer dealer...Bosch, Nippondenso, etc. They have always lasted as long or longer than the factory original new one. They are usually remanufactured by the original manufacturer and if you shop carefully online, you can get them for decent prices. I'm with the OP, it is difficult to find decent quality remanufactured starters and alternators...been the case for 20 years.
 
Your example of using a cheap diode causing more ripple is not valid. A working diode is a one way valve for electricity. A defective diode is either shorted or open. There is no way a working cheap diode can cause more ripple than a working OE diode.

I think the small local rebuild shop will always produce a better rebuild than buying a rebuild through an AZ or RA. The local guy has a reputation to keep up. If he sells you a rebuilt alternator and it goes south he knows you will be back with the non working alternator asking him what happened. I don't think they are out to compete on price with AZ. The local shops I have done business with often swap alternators rather than rebuild yours and make you wait. And some don't focus on the dime a dozen alternators in cars. Rather focus on marine or big truck or heavy equipment alternators and starters. And a good local rebuild shop should have (and know how to use) an oscilloscope.

No, a diode as part of a rectifier network can fail in a way that it starts letting current through imperfectly causing a high ripple. That's why those handheld testers report on ripple. If you have >100mV your car will still likely function but it's an indication you have a diode starting to go. It's a very tricky thing to diagnose and may cause weird gremlins to happen in the car's electrical.

There absolutely are bad rebuild shops. Unless you are hovering over the guy's shoulder you have absolutely no assurance that all the necessary parts were replaced, and of good quality. A unit can be built with crappy parts and still test well electrically or function for a long time. There's dozens of ways that shortcuts can be taken. Using generic voltage voltage regulators is a prime example. If the guy is only charging $100 for a rebuild do you really think he's sourcing an OE regulator which costs at minimum $50?
 
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