OCI on 2011 Mustang?

[troyh]

For 2011 Mustang V6.

I replaced the factory fill at 1,000 with Pennzoil Conventional 5w20. Yesterday I changed at 3951, with Quaker State Synthetic (cheap from the rebates).

I am unsure how long to go on this (5,000 , 7,500). The OLM read that I was at 72% with almost 3,000 on the Pennzoil conventional. Unless the OLM goes downhill fast, then according to the stats I could have ran the Pennzoil conventional over 10,000!

The salesman told me that if I change oil prior to the OLM counting down to under 15% I am throwing money away. Granted, I would rather run synthetic this long over dino, BUT....

It still makes me paranoid going this long on oil, when it is one thing you can do to take care of your car rather cheaply (if you change yourself). Personally, I would rather change the oil more frequently to save repairs later on which really cost $$$.

Thoughts?

 

[Gilstein]

manual says 7500-10,000 depending on conditions I believe. You have to manually reset your OLM too when you change; the car doesn't automatically go back to 100%. The OLM is also a logarithm and not a linear calculation.

 

[tig1]

The engine in your Stang is not an oil killer, so after the warranty go with PP or M1 and do 10K OCIs. You will never hurt you V6 doing that.

 

[cos]

troyh,

What does your owner's manual say?

How many qts does your V6 hold?

 

[troyh]

Originally Posted By: cos
troyh,

What does your owner's manual say?

How many qts does your V6 hold?


Owners manual reads to just go on the OLM readout - "May be up to one year or 10,000 miles".

V6 holds 6 quarts.

Of course the OLM does not know WHICH oil you are using. It could have been cheap dollar store oil or M1 extended. Would calculate the same. If the OLM would have calculated the same as it had been, the change would have been 10,539 doing the math. That is kind of concerning.

 

[troyh]

Originally Posted By: tig1
The engine in your Stang is not an oil killer, so after the warranty go with PP or M1 and do 10K OCIs. You will never hurt you V6 doing that.


I might have to clarify with the dealer the warranty as how it pertains to the oil changes. Basically, all they told me was to follow the OLM (and don't waste money changing too soon).

I wonder how this will turn out with people that do not pay attention to their car. The OLM goes down to 0% at around 10,000 miles and they head back down to Jiffy Lube again.

After I change out the Quaker State Synthetic, I have about 5 jugs of PP to use, along with plenty of MC and Wix filters.

 

[pidster]

Only slightly OT but what motor are they using in the 2011 V6's?

The 4.0 is just about extinct now I know as much as I love it, it just don't put out what a 4.0 could.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: troyh




It still makes me paranoid going this long on oil, when it is one thing you can do to take care of your car rather cheaply (if you change yourself). Personally, I would rather change the oil more frequently to save repairs later on which really cost $$$.

Thoughts?


My thought is that it's incredibly unlikely you'll prevent any issues by changing your oil more frequently than the OLM suggests. Personally, I'd be more comfortable with a group III synthetic, like you're using now, than a conventional oil--but I doubt it would matter much either way.

Sure, people bring about repairs due to not changing their oil, but that's a totally different story than following a car's OLM.

There are a lot of used oil analysis on the smaller Duratec motors (the 3.7 is the new RWD version of the Duratec), and that engine historically is easy on oil.

If I were in your shoes, I'd keep running a synthetic and stick to the OLM. If you want to buy some extra protection take the extra $$ and try Ford's racing version of the FL820. It has better filtration and better flow than the standard Motorcraft filter, with the ADB Valve located in the specified location.

 

[troyh]

Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: troyh




It still makes me paranoid going this long on oil, when it is one thing you can do to take care of your car rather cheaply (if you change yourself). Personally, I would rather change the oil more frequently to save repairs later on which really cost $$$.

Thoughts?


My thought is that it's incredibly unlikely you'll prevent any issues by changing your oil more frequently than the OLM suggests. Personally, I'd be more comfortable with a group III synthetic, like you're using now, than a conventional oil--but I doubt it would matter much either way.

Sure, people bring about repairs due to not changing their oil, but that's a totally different story than following a car's OLM.

There are a lot of used oil analysis on the smaller Duratec motors (the 3.7 is the new RWD version of the Duratec), and that engine historically is easy on oil.

If I were in your shoes, I'd keep running a synthetic and stick to the OLM. If you want to buy some extra protection take the extra $$ and try Ford's racing version of the FL820. It has better filtration and better flow than the standard Motorcraft filter, with the ADB Valve located in the specified location.


I think I will go down to time to change on the OLM if I am using synthetic. If I use dino (probably not), then maybe to 50% OLM.

This years Mustang take the MC Fl-500s filter. I have a supply of those and the Wix 57502.

 

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: cos
troyh,

What does your owner's manual say?


That is cold

!!!

 

[sicko]

Use the synthetic you have and follow the OLM. OLMs have shown themselves to be very good indicators of the oil life remaining. Unless the vehicle is spec'ed for synthetic, most OLMs are calibrated to conventional oil. Use your synthetic and run it till it's about 15%; lather, rinse, repeat.

If you're really worried about it, run the oil down to 30% than do a used oil analysis and see what the current state of the oil is.

 

[cos]

troyh,

That's interesting, I guess the OLM will decide if "severe service" calls for shorter OCIs. As for 6 qts - one more reason the OCI can go longer. Nice car, good luck with it.