OCI help needed! first bitog post

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Hey everybody, I've been browsing this amazing forum for a while and decided that it was time to sign up.
I have a 2004 toyota solara se 2.4l 2AZ-FE

156,100 miles currently

First oil change since I got the car was Toyota conventional 5w30 and a toyota oil filter june 2015 at 149k. No idea what PO put in it.

Semi normal driving for the most part between last year and this years oil change

Next oil change was this June 2016 with MS5K and a basic proline filter from Pepboys at 155k. Oil was changed at 6k/1 year basically.

The engine doesn't seem to be eating oil yet, and the mechanic who filled it put it above the full mark on the dipstick. Should I be concerned?

Since then I've driven mostly locally 5-15 mins to work, school, and getting groceries.

My first concern is the proline filter from pepboys. Since I didnt change the oil for a year, I'm concerned that any sludge from the old oil would have gummed up the new filter and that it won't last a 5k OCI. Should I stick to 3 months/3k?

I'll probably have 1200 miles on the oil and filter by the 3 month interval. It's a very cheap looking filter and theres not a lot of info out there on them except that Purolator makes them. It's smaller than the classic so I'm not sure how long it'll hold up.

Next, because the first 900 or so miles I put since the last oil change are considered severe driving and the fact that I used a cheap filter, should I just change the oil at the 3 month interval or keep it going til at least 3k? I'll be doing mostly highway driving starting September ~300 miles a week.

I'm planning on using MS5K again with a K&N PS1003 (which I will cut open after it's done with)

And after that P1 filter + M1 HM or M1 since its 22.88 at walmart plus the 12 dollar rebate will make it cheaper than dino

Thanks for all of the advice and info in advance

-Taha
 
K&N filters are made in Mexico, quality has deteriorated.

The only 2 filters I use are Wix & Fram Ultras.

Any oil should be fine for 1 year of your driving. But I'd feel more comfortable with a semi-synthetic like Castrol Magnatec.
 
Thank you for the input. The box said made in China and it cost 4.68 on Amazon so I guess you get what you pay for. I'll look for some wix filters in the future. And I'll check out castrol magnatec thanks! Is there anything else I should be doing?
 
I use $2 Pronto filters (made in China), I've ran them to 9k, and you could not ask for a better looking filter when it comes out. So I don't get too caught up in costs, brands, or country of origin.
 
Do you know if your motor has sludge under the valve covers? Have you ever removed the valve cover to look?

Those engines are known to burn oil, so make sure that you periodically check the level.

I would also suggest you make sure the pcv valve gets changed at regular intervals.

As for oil filters, a better filter like a fram or wix is a better choice, bit a cheaper filter would be sufficient.

If Are you planning on keeping this Camry for 30 more years then get yourself a Fram Ultra. Otherwise don't lose sleep over it. I would add that you can skip the K&N oil filter.
 
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I have not opened up the valve covers. I just assumed that there would be some sludge or contamination because I let the oil run for an extended interval. Burning oil, that is very true about these cars. From what I remember it didn't eat too much of the Toyota oil. Current oci with ms5k, the line hasn't budged. And was actually going to changing the Pcv today lol. I want to keep the car for 10 years or so without expensive repairs since I'm still in school and pretty broke.

My main question is should I just change the oil at the 3 month mark or keep it running til 3k? Even though the proline filter is cheap, is it safe to run for more than three months? Only about 900 miles/2 months on it so far.
 
If you are worried then just change it at shorter interval.
Otherwise, I will not overthink too much about it.

I have not heard the 2.4L with sludge problem yet but I can be wrong so somebody correct me.
IIRC, the most sludge prone Toyota engine was the 3.0L due to small PCV.
They fixed it in the later derivation of the engine 3.3L and 3.5L with a relatively large threaded PCV.

Personally, I would not open the valve cover just to look unless it is leaking.

Oil burning seems to be normal with age and as it ages older.

Enjoy it and never imagine any issue until it happens.
 
thank you very much JMJnet. I'll keep it running for a few more month in that case. After that I'll get a better filter and see how well the proline worked.
 
Proline filters are fine. If you keep using the MS5K, you'll be fine with the 6k - 1yr OCI. Just keep it topped off.
 
Be sure to use an oem pcv valve. You can go 5k/1 year on your current oci. Most importantly is to check all fluid levels often, I'd say once a week or every fill up.
 
Since dino is iffy with your mileage and driving habits and you're willing to go to Walmart for inexpensive oil, get the cheapest synthetic they have and whatever Fram filter you feel comfortable with and forget about it for a year.
 
I am only going to walmart because of the Mobil rebate going on. I want a quality oil for a good price. Original plan was to use pyb with a p1 filter. Since ms5k will cost me around 7 bucks and M1 will be 10 for 5 qts each, I'm going to stock up. I got the K&N PS filter for free from someone which is why I was going to try it, but since a lot of people on the forum have said to stay away, I'll just get a fram ultra or something

Thank you so much for the help everyone
 
Originally Posted By: THafeez
Bvance how long did it take you to get to 9k?


A little over 3 months.
 
OK, so it's a mid-life engine. It does not need extra special care, but regular maintenance is good. If you are going to go over about 5K on filter and, most importantly, over winter with thick start-up oil (it's all thick in the cold), I'd step up the filter grade to WIX (Napa Gold same), Baldwin, Fram Ultra, and the like.

If the motor looks clean'ish on the inside, it's fine for two changes on each filter. Many big fleets run 6,000 oil changes and 12,000 mile filters. Your driving is sort of tending toward short tripping which is not great. But it's long enough to get up to temp which is important. So just stay on top of stuff.

You didn't say if you are doing much of this yourself. Sound like you have a shop you take it to ... A bit overfull is not bad, but it will usually want to push the extra out through the PCV system over time.

If the motor is dark and looking a bit crusty on the inside, I'd start running BG109 on each change along with a good oil that will tolerate it and clean well (slowly). Rotella T6 gets along with BG109 and they work well together to slowly clean things. It's cheap enough to change every 6K with a filter
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Hi Broc, Thank you so much for taking out the time and helping me out.
smile.gif


I am planning to use a fram ultra filter with ms5k when I reach the 5000/6 month interval. After the harsh winter is done I'll be trying out M1 HM with the same filter.

Engine looks okay on the inside. It has varnish on it, but nothing is crusty. Oil at 1200 miles is still pretty clean (smells/looks the same). Once my college starts I'll be going 25 miles there and back on the highway so short tripping will be reduced significantly.

I had it done at the shop because I had no tools. Reputable people, but now that I have a good oil pan, ratchet and socket sets and lots of oil, I will do it on my own.

Quick question. I got the new pcv valve today. Should I keep the old one on till I change the oil so that the new one doesn't wear out faster (because there is more oil)? I know nothing about what it does, just trying to see whats gonna get me max mpg. maf and tb cleaning has been done. and the mpg has gotten better for local and highway.
 
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