I’ve considered this on my Corvette. Lots of noise from the wheel wells from what other people have posted on the forums. If you do it, get a decibel meter or an app on your phone for before and after results.
noise reduction
- Thread starter raaizin
- Start date
It takes a lot of deadening material to make a satisfying difference. Plastic door cards as well as central portion of door skins, entire metal wall surfaces, all of it… and it will help a little. NOTE - I’ve done this with the cheaper products, like the aluminum-faced tar stick-n-seal products at the local hardware store - it works, but the car smelled like tar for a year on hot days. Buy the right stuff.
Most modern cars have actually made huge improvements in NVH. Simply adding a layer of mastic products to areas like floors, door panels, trunks won't really make much noticeable difference in modern cars except in the cheapest, or basic of vehicles. You really have to tear everything down and strategically add layers of various materials to make even a small-ish difference. There's just inherently many core components of a vehicle that are designed from a cost benefit perspective which affect NVH substantially like the subframe, bushings, various mounts, glass, and etc..
I know this is an older thread but one of the issue with Porsche, VW, and Audi performance vehicles is that VW feels we need to hear the car after they do sound damping. Most of what I saw as noise in my GTI was the Soundaktor. A lot of Porsches have them somewhere along the firewall behind the seats. The front engine VW products have them mounted near the base of the windshield. It simulates a warble/rumble to simulate exhaust and mechanical noise, but I've found that this vibration can loosen the mounting bolt of the device itself and induce a rattle over time. The idea of a device designed to vibrate my car to simulate noise drove me absolutely insane and I removed it. Adding damping does add weight, but I would start with removing the noise maker. Weight savings!
There is a sheet rubber called mass loaded vinyl I used in my Accord- heavy.
Thanks for the tip but I pulled the fuse the first day I got home. It made it a little better. It really isnt bad unless I take long trips with it
It's just my opinion, but you're the first individual to talk sense (sorry, Others) I have to say. To quell noise you need:
i) 10-20% area-coverage of poorly-supported panels with constrained layer damping tile... no more than that! This simply kills resonances, oil-canning. It comprises a sandwich of butyl, aluminum, butyl and it is self adhesive;
ii) you need a contiguous "curtain" of custom-fit MLV, no gaps!; and you need
iii) a thin layer of CCF to "separate" the hung curtain of MLV from the car's structure.
Used to be a website and business called (I think) "sounddeadenershowdown" that was excellent with its how-to. Guy retired...
This is NOT easy to do!
Here is a site that has a web-archive of SDS... Takes a moment to load. Worth a read of the SDS site: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...vehicle-the-right-way.225971/#js-post-2935500
OP... this is the first negative I've heard re the Boxsters/Cayman. Stands to reason the modern-day 911 is quieter. Yeah, you pay for it... but factory-engineered quiet is very hard to duplicate at home, so to speak.
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Does anyone have any experience with Ziebart sound insulation? Apparently it’s sprayed onto the underbody and wheel wells like a traditional undercoating, but thicker.
www.ziebart.com
www.ziebart.com
