no oil comes out from filter

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Jun 14, 2010
car is 2001 acura integra 123k miles. i always do my oil changes cold. ive used oem honda, purolator pureone 14610, and royal purple filter. These are the SKINNY/narrow filters, i may try the older fatter ones next time. Every time i take off my filter, not a drop of oil is in there or drips from the engine block. When i do hot oil changes, there is oil in the filter and dripping from the block. Inside my garage is kind of slanted downhill and my driveway is completely flat. When i do my oil changes, i jack up just the front. When i check my oil level inside the garage, the dip stick shows excessively above the full line, however when its in the driveway, its right on the top dot. 1)Is this going to affect my car in the long run? 2)How exactly is the anti drain back valve suppose to work? 3)and where does the retained oil lubricate on start up??
I never did it cold because I want the suspension, gets more crud out. But I would think the oil would still pour out cold. As the name suggests, prevents the oil from falling back down the oil channels, and back to the pan through the filter, leaving a dry start. Do you have a tick/rap on startup? seem ruff? Its on multiple filter brands so i doubt it could be all. Would think the oil channels along with the filter would stay primed. Need somebody that performs cold oil changes. As far as changes in the dip and angles, normal gravity and fluid changes. Why you always let the jack down to fill
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
When i do my oil changes, i jack up just the front.
Please tell me you have more than a jack there when you are under it!
I could imagine this is affecting your start-up wear in a negative way. The angle must somehow allow oil to drain back some. It is hard to believe there would be "not a drop of oil" that is left but you may want to park in your driveway. The fat filter will not make any appreciable difference that I can imagine. DON'T FORGET YOUR SAFETY!
"When i do my oil changes, i jack up just the front." ---meaning i lift up just the front. I exercise caution every time i work on my car. I use jack stands. there really isnt a drop of oil that comes out of the filter or engine block. the car sits for over 10 hrs before i do an oil change. Im puzzled -.-. engine runs good and quiet and low consumption. 1/4-1/2 quart every 5k miles Forgot to mention, i park in the garage every night and when i do an oil change, i PUSH my car outside to do an oil change. I dont believe in turning on a car to move it a few feet and then turning it off. Still young and energetic so i dont mind. This kind of sucks....this means all the oil in the filter drains into the pan(if i park in my slanted garage??) frown
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Is the threaded end of the filter facing up or down or sideways? You really should change the oil when its warm to hot. You can change the filter after things cool down if its close to something hot. You don't want the crud in the oil to settle, you want it all to flow out. The anti-drainback valve should work. Try a different brand. Maybe a M1.
faces sideways. it should work, but i tried 3 different filters and all had no oil inside when i did a cold oil change. Hot or cold shouldnt matter....i think its my slanted garage the oil thats suppose to be retained in the oil filter, what part of the engine is it suppose to lubricate upon start up?
Not to sound super technical, but could you post which 3 different filters you used? For me, the Amsoil I recently used had one HUGE adbv and I didn't experience dry starts...ironically, however, when I changed the filter to replace an OPS(oil pressure switch), the filter didn't have much inside. Go figure? I suppose my point is finding out what 'may' work for you, unless you just have a particular case that is hard to prevent the filter from draining out.
The Honda filters have a silicone rubber seal that keeps a half cup or so of oil in the filter. You have to push something small through two of the holes that the rubber seals in order to drain out the oil that's trapped in the filter. The new filter should feel a lot lighter in hand than the old one. The difference in weight is the oil trapped in the filter.
Punch a hole in a filter you take out or similar method to see whats inside. Here is a test that could determine if its a problem. With a watch or mentally time how long it takes for the oil pressure to show up on the gauge or idiot light to go out on a normal start. Do that with your next oil change. Park the car level for a few hours and do it.
The problem trying to help you is your doing non-conventional things people don't usually do like rolling a car ignition off, then changing the oil cold after sitting all night. Not saying that's wrong, but think best answer would be somebody that changes their oil like that. Is it a standard? Disengaging and engaging the clutch with the ignition off could mean no oil pump, engine turns vacating oil, its hard to tell. In that case its not a big deal because there's a partial dry start when you change your oil anyways. Another reason to reconsider cold oil changes. Partial cold dry start, ouch....
my concern is because i figured there is no oil coming out of my oil filter when performing COLD oil changes means there is NO oil every time i start a cold engine......thats why i am worried
I wouldn't worry about it. The ex's MX-6 has an empty oil filter every time I've removed it even when it's hot. I've tried NAPA Gold, Fram, Supertech, and Purolator. They all do it. The car is 19 years old with 140k miles and it runs great with negligible oil consumption. The ADBV only prevents sudden drainage of the dirty side of the filter, to prevent the filter media from being backflushed. It won't keep the oil filter full over time if the engine design doesn't allow it. A bigger filter might not be a good idea. It would just take longer to fill on start-up.
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