2000 Buick LeSabre
No crank when turning the key. Battery is at 12.23 Volts across the battery terminals.
I have the battery charger hooked up to it right now and the battery is pulling in 6 Amps. If the battery was fully charged, it wouldn't be pulling any current, correct ?
The battery normally has 14.7 Volts when the engine is running.
Is 12.23 Volts not enough to turn the engine over ?
No Crank - No Turnover
- Thread starter Merkava_4
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That should be enough to start. The voltage may go away under load though. Or it could be a bad connection somewhere between the battery and the starter (on either the power or the ground side).
Measure at the starter (big wire to the battery to starter ground), while someone turns the key. The voltage should stay up around 12. Then check the small wire at the starter to starter ground. It should become live when the key is turned. If both of those pass, the starter is probably bad.
Maybe but I wonder about it buddy. It is definitely hurting at 12.2. I know my Ford Fusion had trouble starting at that voltage. It would start and then not start... Battery had 66k miles worth of starts on it. Replaced it and it was done after that. And yeah it is pulling those amps it is certainly down on charge. How old is the battery man??
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Evidently. 12.7 is 100% I would give it at least 1/2 an hour.
Is your starter relay getting power? Easy check to see if it's upstream or down stream
I just replaced the battery in my mom's car as it was 5 years old and was getting harder to start. Didn't want her to get stranded and for $100 it was a wise decision.
Turn the headlights on, turn key, lights go out or stay bright? Lights out? Bad battery or connection. Lights stay on, don't dim? Starter not being engaged, bad starter solenoid, bad neutral safety switch, or bad ignition switch. This check works 99% of the time.
Originally Posted By: mk378
That should be enough to start. The voltage may go away under load though. Or it could be a bad connection somewhere between the battery and the starter (on either the power or the ground side).
Measure at the starter (big wire to the battery to starter ground), while someone turns the key. The voltage should stay up around 12. Then check the small wire at the starter to starter ground. It should become live when the key is turned. If both of those pass, the starter is probably bad.
Try moving the shifter to neutral. It's always worth a try.
Load test the battery.
Voltage test is non-conclusive in terms of battery health.
If you don't have the load tester, part store will be happy to help you.
If you have a nearby Harbor Freight, spending $20 will help you diagnose the battery issue in the future also.
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Check the battery voltage when it has a load applied to it. Turn on the head-lights, and interior lights and check the battery voltage with that load on it. It should be above 11.0 Volts.
If you have someone to help you, read the battery voltage while someone turns the key to start.
All is well now fellas. Thanks for all your replies. 
Apparently, 12.23 Volts is not enough to turn the engine over -- but 13.85 Volts is.
After startup, the battery was back to 14.5 Volts with a little jolt from the alternator.
Earlier today, I put the car in neutral so that I could roll the car out of the garage for cleaning the garage. I must've either left something on, or didn't put the ignition tumbler back to the full off position.
Apparently, 12.23 Volts is not enough to turn the engine over -- but 13.85 Volts is.
After startup, the battery was back to 14.5 Volts with a little jolt from the alternator.
Earlier today, I put the car in neutral so that I could roll the car out of the garage for cleaning the garage. I must've either left something on, or didn't put the ignition tumbler back to the full off position.
You more than likely need a new battery. How old is it?
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I don't know how old the battery is. I got the car in 2005 and if I remember, replaced the battery shortly there after. You'd never know the battery is that old because it lives under the back seat. It still looks brand new.
Right now it's back on the charger again. The voltage dropped down to 12.37 overnight.
It looks like I may have about a 1.0 Amp current draw on the battery. I unhooked the negative battery cable and connected the positive lead of my multimeter to the negative battery cable end. I then hooked my negative multimeter lead to the negative battery terminal. Set the multimeter to 10 Amps DC. I'm getting a constant 0.88 Amp current draw with everything off.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It looks like I may have about a 1.0 Amp current draw on the battery. I unhooked the negative battery cable and connected the positive lead of my multimeter to the negative battery cable end. I then hooked my negative multimeter lead to the negative battery terminal. Set the multimeter to 10 Amps DC. I'm getting a constant 0.88 Amp current draw with everything off.
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