Nissan MAF sensor replacement....

[Huskyguy68]

I usually spray clean my MAF sensor, sometimes 3-4 times per year.
My old Nissan suv runs fine, no CEL, seems to idle good and mpg is good for a 20 year old 4 cyl. suv with 232,000 klms on the OD.
But I was reading that eventually all MAF sensors degrade over the years, they have a certain shelf life, like all other automotive parts. Such as the cam/crank sensors.
What I read was when you do outright replace the MAF sensor, it can restore back to life engine power, mpgs and so on.
I know I can buy a Rockauto Hitachi MAF sensor for about $90CND plus tax and $15 shipping. They have cheaper economy brands and another $117 MAF sensor.
Any of you guys replace the MAF sensor and really notice the improvement over your old one?
Secondly, should I stick with buying the same OEM MAF sensor?
I have replaced some parts with non OEM and no issues at all. But I read the MAF sensor is a more delicate sensitive part and I should pony up the money, buy the best OEM MAF sensor to avoid problems .

 

[Leo99]

I noticed the MAF sensor on my old RAV4 was dirty and I started cleaning it every month or two. They're expensive and I wasn't sure changing it would do anything good so I just kept it clean.

 

[iCurious]

Aftermarket MAF sensor is absolutely a hit and a miss. If your fuel trims are fine, there is no point in replacing it.

 

[DCDG]

What are you all using for a maf cleaner? I have a can of crc qd electronic cleaner is this safe to use?

 

[researcher]

What are you all using for a maf cleaner? I have a can of crc qd electronic cleaner is this safe to use?

yup CRC MAF sensor cleaner is what I'm using, most others are too. It's basically a re-branded Electronics cleaner, since it's plastic safe. So what you have would be the same thing. You can go to CRC's website and compare the tech specs you'll see it's the same stuff. yup safe to use..

 

[slacktide_bitog]

If you need to replace it, the Hitachi is the best choice since it's most likely OE but cheaper than the dealer

I have used CRC MAF cleaner with success. Obviously, it doesn't last forever, but it helps.

Those Nissans do have problems with MAF, knock sensors, fuel injectors, and sometimes coils too. The 90s and early 2000s Nissans had lots of problems with those parts. I used to have a 4th gen Maxima

 

[Huskyguy68]

If you need to replace it, the Hitachi is the best choice since it's most likely OE but cheaper than the dealer

I have used CRC MAF cleaner with success. Obviously, it doesn't last forever, but it helps.

Those Nissans do have problems with MAF, knock sensors, fuel injectors, and sometimes coils too. The 90s and early 2000s Nissans had lots of problems with those parts. I used to have a 4th gen Maxima

and the cam/crank sensors!
or is that with every make of vehicle?

 

[DCDG]

Could you have sensor issues without throwing a code or cel?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Could you have sensor issues without throwing a code or cel?

The knock sensor will throw a code P0325 but won't turn on the CEL if it's the only code

 

[dfarr67]

Clean MAF once a year with oil change.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Some Nissan OEM synthetic fiber air filters seemed to be over-oiled from the factory from Japan. I don't know if this is for transport. But My '14 Rogue Select (QR25DE) was sopping wet in a clean mineral oil - It self-trashed the MAF. I replaced it with a low efficiency STP filter, cleaned the MAF with lab Ethanol, and power and drivability was restored. Crazy stuff. And, no, I didn't mistake it for PCV blowback. - Arco

 

[Huskyguy68]

Some Nissan OEM synthetic fiber air filters seemed to be over-oiled from the factory from Japan. I don't know if this is for transport. But My '14 Rogue Select (QR25DE) was sopping wet in a clean mineral oil - It self-trashed the MAF. I replaced it with a low efficiency STP filter, cleaned the MAF with lab Ethanol, and power and drivability was restored. Crazy stuff. And, no, I didn't mistake it for PCV blowback. - Arco

I have read online many saying not to install a K&N pre oiled filter as it can /will dirty the MAF sensor over time.
But then others say not exactly true, it's when you go to re oil it and over do it the issues occur.
Then K&N themselves will say '' It is not true our filters blah blah blah.''
So far, I just stick with oem air filters or the equivalent aftermarket brands.
I will say that long ago I owned a then new 04 Civic Si and installed the AEM cold air intake with the exposed -oiled cone air filter. Was on the car for about 6-7 years when I sold it in 2015.
Never cleaned it/never re-oiled it. Never had any engine issues or CEL turn on. Maybe I was lucky? lol.

 

[Huskyguy68]

I noticed the MAF sensor on my old RAV4 was dirty and I started cleaning it every month or two. They're expensive and I wasn't sure changing it would do anything good so I just kept it clean.

that's great, pretty much what I do with mine. But they do wear down over time, from what I was reading. Always starts out with ''will last the lifetime of your vehicle BUT....'' then mentions it is a delicate sensitive electrical part and can fail or wear out over time , depending on all sorts of driving conditions, temperatures, etc.
It pays to do some online detective work. I found Rockauto can sell me a Hitachi brand for $75-93 in Canadian funds plus $15 shipping and tax.

 

[SC Maintenance]

What I read was when you do outright replace the MAF sensor, it can restore back to life engine power, mpgs and so on.

What you read was false. Closed loop control dicatates that if your MAF sensor was out of calibration your long term fuel trims would be off. What percentage are you LTFT's? That is how closed loop control works - a second sensor "closes" the loop, in an engine's case that would be the primary A/F sensor - aka first 02 sensor.

I do believe they can degrade over time. Its just a temperature sensor and a resistance wire.

The MAF sensor in my Xterra I believe is still original at 420K miles.

The MAF sensor in my Frontier was replaced - I used a Hitachi from RA. Probably around 150K by memory. My fuel trims were off - that solved it.

I do clean them on occasion but not that often.

 

[dishdude]

If you want to throw money away I'll send you my address.

 

[researcher]

that's great, pretty much what I do with mine. But they do wear down over time, from what I was reading. Always starts out with ''will last the lifetime of your vehicle BUT....'' then mentions it is a delicate sensitive electrical part and can fail or wear out over time , depending on all sorts of driving conditions, temperatures, etc.
It pays to do some online detective work. I found Rockauto can sell me a Hitachi brand for $75-93 in Canadian funds plus $15 shipping and tax.

Ya I agree with @SC Maintenance you can check with a scan tool, the fuel trims, plus you can also check the live data to see the MAF sensors air flow. Have to get some baseline data from other similar engines to know what is "normal". But the point is, it would throw a CEL if it did go bad. They usually just get dirty and sure nothing lasts forever, but from I have experienced, it's the 02 sensors that get "lazy and slow".

I know @dishdude is having fun and I laughed really hard. But I don't think you need to spend money on a "What if" scenario. Check the live data and I bet you're doing well..

 

[bladecutter]

I don't think you NEED to replace your MAF sensor, since you are not currently trying to resolve a drivability issue.
BUT,
If you do decide to buy one, take the readings from your car with the current MAF sensor at a couple different RPMS (idle, 1500, 2500), and then when you install the new MAF sensor, take the same readings at the same rpms, and compare them against each other.
Are they close, or are they far off.

And most importantly, DO NOT THROW OUT THE CURRENT MAF SENSOR.
If the new one winds up being junk after a few months, you want to still have that OEM sensor on hand to reinstall, since you know it is a good part, currently.

 

[Huskyguy68]

I don't think you NEED to replace your MAF sensor, since you are not currently trying to resolve a drivability issue.
BUT,
If you do decide to buy one, take the readings from your car with the current MAF sensor at a couple different RPMS (idle, 1500, 2500), and then when you install the new MAF sensor, take the same readings at the same rpms, and compare them against each other.
Are they close, or are they far off.

And most importantly, DO NOT THROW OUT THE CURRENT MAF SENSOR.
If the new one winds up being junk after a few months, you want to still have that OEM sensor on hand to reinstall, since you know it is a good part, currently.

good advice...I tend to keep my old used vehicle parts for a few months or so.
I have not ordered the MAF sensor, not a priority.I will be buying the new front sway bar bushings !
The Easter Bunny and I will be installing them this long weekend, I hope.
Getting nice sunny and warm here.

 

[moparguy]

I have a 1999 Nissan Altima with 333,??? miles and a 2.4 motor automatic. Few weeks ago cut off and hard to start. I had to replace the distributor which has a cam sensor built in. Had to replace it 14 montha before also and was under warranty. Picked up car drove maybe 10 miles to get food and waiting in drive though started acting up. Cut off hard to start etc. Had a code for MAS sensor. Shoo replaced it . I have cleanrd the sensor also. Drove for a week and mpgs was bad like 20.39 and usually its 23 or higher. Then had a code po171. Have not checked into it but hope to see if a vac leak this weekend. Thinking about selling it but now not sure

 

[wtd]

As mentioned above, I would not replace it if you don't have a code pointing towards an issue with it or you have a drivability issue that could point towards the MAF as part of the problem.
I personally would not use anything other than OEM on a MAF sensor as it is one of the most important sensors on the vehicle. Remember that just because you find a sensor that is manufactured by the same company as your OEM one, it does not mean that it's built to the exact same specs.