Newbie "0-weight" question

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Not taking into account dino vs. synth, is there any "advantage" here in midwest US of running a 0w20 oil vs a 5w20 oil in an engine spec'ed for 5w20? Its 4:45am and my mind is wandering :)
 
Thanks Guys, the extreme cold issue was what I came up with also..I've never had any cold start issues here in IA with the 5w20, just "pondering"...It will be interesting to see if the SOPUS guys come out with an Ultra 0w20 version..
 
It's not really possible to avoid the issue of dino vs. syn entirely with xw-20 oils. Even the ones labeled as conventionals have to have some synthetic in them so they don't cook off too quickly, and a 0w-20 will need more than a 5w-20. So, if you're looking at two comparable xw-20s, the 0w-20 might be a better oil even if you don't need the extra help on a cold start.

What does this have to do with 0-weight oils, by the way? Sounds like we're talking about xw-20, not SAE 0.
 
Originally Posted By: crinkles
in the very worst of the cold yes there would be upon startup.


The pour difference - flow rate at -20 f between 0 W and 5 W is what ?

Almost zero for practicality
 
A simplistic way to look at it is if all other spec's were equal (VI and 100C/40C visc), the 0w-20 would show no more than max limits for the CCS and MRV tests @ -5F colder than its 5w-20 counterpart. In the vacuum of flawed calculations, they would be identical otherwise in "imaginary real" terms at higher temps.
 
Originally Posted By: badnews
The pour difference - flow rate at -20 f between 0 W and 5 W is what ?

Almost zero for practicality

W ratings are based on pumpability, not pour point or "flow rate."
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
It's not really possible to avoid the issue of dino vs. syn entirely with xw-20 oils. Even the ones labeled as conventionals have to have some synthetic in them so they don't cook off too quickly, and a 0w-20 will need more than a 5w-20. So, if you're looking at two comparable xw-20s, the 0w-20 might be a better oil even if you don't need the extra help on a cold start.

What does this have to do with 0-weight oils, by the way? Sounds like we're talking about xw-20, not SAE 0.


Give him credit; he admitted that he's new to this, so although you're absolutely right that the question is somewhat "mis-named" I can very well see why and how it got that way.

A couple thoughts that have already been alluded to here. First, you are almost certainly getting some form of syn blend or syn when you buy either a 0w or 5w-20 oil, for the reasons df suggested. Adding to that, there are other, you might say "non advertised" benefits that would come along with that. Admittedly, it's debatable whether those benefits would be meaningful in any particular modern app, given the high quality dinos that are competing for shelf space.

The other idea I find interesting is the practical difference between 0w and 5w-20 oils (same being true for the 30s and 40s too). Studying the numbers (and admitting that I'm not an engineer), I really wonder how many situations exist in which there's really a meaningful benefit with the 0w compared to the 5w... If it ever becomes a factor where I live (Florida), you guys up north will probably have had a glacier push your house over. And even up North, how often do you really see temps cold enough to bring the differences into play?
 
The 0 weight protects the engine more at startup due to faster flow. That's why I use it on the newer car. So they say, and from an average man's view, it sounds logical. I guess the w that stands for winter is thought to be weight. My oil can says 0w30 can be used to replace 5w30 or 10w30, that's what I go by, as they make the stuff.
 
0w is no guarantee of flow in cold. Take GC 0w-30, it's a thick oil and Mobil 1 0w-30, thicker than Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 across the board.
 
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