New Yard Machines mowers with a measly 79CC Chonda

My 21" push mower has a 140cc MTD, and it struggles in thick grass. I don't see a 79cc engine doing all that well. Even modded, I don't see a 79cc engine doing very well.

I'm considering putting a 170cc engine on the mower this winter.
Some of the rentals around me, the students living in them like to buy the cheapest mower you can buy which is usually a 125cc OHV Briggs, and they like to slack on cutting, I can hear the governor pull back real hard everytime they hit tall grass, I can't see 79cc doing well unless you mow religiously and have a blade that's sharper than sharp, which are not things that people that buy the cheapest mower usually do, they're selling a garbage product that's setting up the target demographic for failure.
 
My 21" push mower has a 140cc MTD, and it struggles in thick grass. I don't see a 79cc engine doing all that well. Even modded, I don't see a 79cc engine doing very well.

I'm considering putting a 170cc engine on the mower this winter.
Thick grass becomes an even bigger problem for certain deck designs, especially mulching. I watched someone try to mulch grass that was about a foot high once. They weren't happy when the mower kept stalling.
 
Some of the rentals around me, the students living in them like to buy the cheapest mower you can buy which is usually a 125cc OHV Briggs, and they like to slack on cutting, I can hear the governor pull back real hard everytime they hit tall grass, I can't see 79cc doing well unless you mow religiously and have a blade that's sharper than sharp, which are not things that people that buy the cheapest mower usually do, they're selling a garbage product that's setting up the target demographic for failure.
You've got that right. The first house my sister rented in college they went out and bought a push REEL mower... you know, the kind with no engine. Boy were they in for a surprise when they tried to mow the overgrown lawn with it for the first time.
 
You've got that right. The first house my sister rented in college they went out and bought a push REEL mower... you know, the kind with no engine. Boy were they in for a surprise when they tried to mow the overgrown lawn with it for the first time.
I know about them well, my late grandfather used to work at American Lawnmower's factory here in Muncie.
 
Thick grass becomes an even bigger problem for certain deck designs, especially mulching. I watched someone try to mulch grass that was about a foot high once. They weren't happy when the mower kept stalling.
It always baffles me how people constantly stall push mowers in tall grass and then get all upset like the mower is junk. Just push it slower and back off when the rpms drop. Makes me wonder how we made it this far as a species.
 
Thick grass becomes an even bigger problem for certain deck designs, especially mulching. I watched someone try to mulch grass that was about a foot high once. They weren't happy when the mower kept stalling.

I mulch with mulch with mine though I also cut every 3-4 days. I use a gator blade and sharpen it every 5 cuts or so. It's bermuda grass with rye for the winter. It'll struggle some in the thick parts, but usually just slowing down a little helps to push through it without much load drop. The lawn is ~15k sqft.

I have a 42" Cub Cadet riding mower, but can't keep a drive belt on the darn thing. I can't get through half the yard without it kicking the belt. I haven't cared enough to dig into the cause of the problem so I've just been using the push mower.
 
This newer 79cc OHV engine likely has about the same power output as the 7.75 cu/in B&S and 7.5 cu/in Tecumseh L-Head engines that were used for many years on the cheapest entry-level mowers (about 2.5 HP). Having said that, I think that a 20" deck is a bit much for this size engine, 18" would be a more appropriate size IMO.
Lifan manufactures MTD's Powermore engines in China. This is the same company that manufactures the Predator engines for HFT.
 
It's just an entry level mower for under 200 bucks. Weights 50 lbs,holds 1/3 of a gallon of gas with a max cutting height of 3 3/4 inches. Seems like a match made in heaven. Makes it easy for the good,better, best floor demo pricing.
 
I mulch with mulch with mine though I also cut every 3-4 days. I use a gator blade and sharpen it every 5 cuts or so. It's bermuda grass with rye for the winter. It'll struggle some in the thick parts, but usually just slowing down a little helps to push through it without much load drop. The lawn is ~15k sqft.

I have a 42" Cub Cadet riding mower, but can't keep a drive belt on the darn thing. I can't get through half the yard without it kicking the belt. I haven't cared enough to dig into the cause of the problem so I've just been using the push mower.
Drive belt as in mower deck drive belt or transmission drive belt?
 
It always baffles me how people constantly stall push mowers in tall grass and then get all upset like the mower is junk. Just push it slower and back off when the rpms drop. Makes me wonder how we made it this far as a species.
That and many of the mowers I work on are barely running above idle right out of the box. I understand the blade tip speed safety concerns, but a lot of it seems to be poor quality control. I usually set them at 3000-3100 RPM.
 
It's just an entry level mower for under 200 bucks. Weights 50 lbs,holds 1/3 of a gallon of gas with a max cutting height of 3 3/4 inches. Seems like a match made in heaven. Makes it easy for the good,better, best floor demo pricing.
Walmart has a Remington that's I'm pretty sure is the same deck with the much better 125cc Briggs on it for $168, and several other mowers under $220 with much better engine options.
 
That and many of the mowers I work on are barely running above idle right out of the box. I understand the blade tip speed safety concerns, but a lot of it seems to be poor quality control. I usually set them at 3000-3100 RPM.

Mine was this way too. It was only running 2400 rpm out of the box. I set it to 3300 rpm, and it cut a lot better.
 
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