I am going to purchase a new vehicle here in FL. I am concerned about dealer negotiating. When should I not be charged for or unacceptable charges. HELP please for those you know. Ed
New vehicle purchasing questions
- Thread starter Eddie
- Start date
Get the best out the door price on the exact car that you want. Now go to another dealer that has the same car and get their best price. Use these 2 numbers to figure out what you think a good price is.
In the current market, you're not negotiating with a dealer. They're going for whoever will / can pay the most over sticker.
If you’re getting it for MSRP in today’s world, I’m not sure what else can be negotiated minus the value of your trade.
We thought we were getting our 4Runner at MSRP, which we somewhat did. They did however hide a $400 blinking brake light upgrade in with the sales tax, dealer processing fees etc. It was non negotiable and I wasn’t willing to walk over it so oh well.
Also beware of the add on maintenance plans.
You can visit www.dealerrater.com to get at least some idea of the various dealers you may visit. One thing to look for is a dealer that will sell a vehicle with no dealer adds. IOW they don't put VIN etching, paint and fabric sealer and other junk on every car crossing the lot. If you were nearby I'd recommend Classic in Galveston. They sell 8 or 9 brands and add zero to any car they sell. Good luck.
While the other comments are true about the current market favouring the seller and that you may face mandatory add-ons, the above is the most important thing to remember so you don't get spun around by various charges on the invoice. I don't really care if there is a VIN-etching charge applied as long as the bottom line price is better than the dealer down the street.
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2022
- Messages
- 5,543
It highly depends on what brand your buying, or how popular the model is. A lot of dealers are adding overpriced options like paint protection, extended service contracts or warranties, and then printing a new window sticker with the updated "MSRP".
If i had to buy one today I would go to the factory website and figure out what MSRP actually is for what I wanted - including the destination charge, and then try to find someone who will sell it to me for that.
Expect you will have to order something then wait a bit.
If i had to buy one today I would go to the factory website and figure out what MSRP actually is for what I wanted - including the destination charge, and then try to find someone who will sell it to me for that.
Expect you will have to order something then wait a bit.
I know some don't like consumer reports and I'm not sure how accurate these are but the first link is how much over people are paying for what appears to be more popular vehicles. The second link lists a few that are a few % lower but my question is lower than when?
www.consumerreports.org
Worst Deals on New Cars Right Now - Consumer Reports
In this look at the worst deals on new cars, Consumer Reports highlights the cars, SUVs, and trucks selling well above MSRP.
Most Discounted New Cars Right Now | MSRP
In this exclusive analysis of the most discounted new cars right now, Consumer Reports identifies great deals on sedans, SUVs, and trucks based on transaction prices.
www.consumerreports.org
Get the out the door price before mentioning you have a trade in. Twice now I’ve had dealers try to play funny games with the trade in price.
Get your own financing lined up first though, because even your interest rate if you let the dealer run your credit is negotiable. But don’t tell them you have your own financing up front.
Actual story that happened to my wife and I when we were 18 and 21 respectively buying a used 2012 Dodge Caliber :
Dealer: “Best we can do is 5%, you both have great credit but not a lot of history, that’s why the rate is kind of high”
Us: “oh ok… we’ll be back in an hour with a cashiers check, my bank is offering 2.65%”
D: “uhhhh… hold on…. Okay so we can match that. Just need to sign here and we’ll get you all set!”
Us: “That’s okay, I’ll go get that check. Makes my life easier not having another account.”
D: “We’ll do 2.45% and no payment for 60 days?”
Us: “Alright deal.”
Get your own financing lined up first though, because even your interest rate if you let the dealer run your credit is negotiable. But don’t tell them you have your own financing up front.
Actual story that happened to my wife and I when we were 18 and 21 respectively buying a used 2012 Dodge Caliber :
Dealer: “Best we can do is 5%, you both have great credit but not a lot of history, that’s why the rate is kind of high”
Us: “oh ok… we’ll be back in an hour with a cashiers check, my bank is offering 2.65%”
D: “uhhhh… hold on…. Okay so we can match that. Just need to sign here and we’ll get you all set!”
Us: “That’s okay, I’ll go get that check. Makes my life easier not having another account.”
D: “We’ll do 2.45% and no payment for 60 days?”
Us: “Alright deal.”
Your two feet are your best asset. If you don't like what you hear or see, get up and leave. They may be more willing to negotiate but be prepared to have to find another dealer.
Lots of dealers install "add-ons" you may not need/want such as wheel locks, scotch guard, window tints, all at premium prices. You can decline them.
Prep fees for paperwork or insurance should also be something to look at. It's the cost of doing business for the dealer. My insurance company, not the dealer, handled my purchase.
Negotiate the best price BEFORE you discuss how to pay/financing.
Lots of dealers install "add-ons" you may not need/want such as wheel locks, scotch guard, window tints, all at premium prices. You can decline them.
Prep fees for paperwork or insurance should also be something to look at. It's the cost of doing business for the dealer. My insurance company, not the dealer, handled my purchase.
Negotiate the best price BEFORE you discuss how to pay/financing.
Bring a friend who is good at negotiating or has some buying experience. Line up your Financing first so you can compare to what the dealer will offer. If trading get a Carvana or CARMAX offer first. If you have a desirable car the dealer may want it and that will sweeten your purchase deal though it complicates the numbers.
My strategy is no different now than any other time. Figure out what you want and call every dealership within 100 miles (or whatever).
Ask for Internet or fleet sales manager. Tell them what you want and what you are doing.
Plot everything on a spreadsheet and go from there.
Good luck. What are you after, anyways?
Ask for Internet or fleet sales manager. Tell them what you want and what you are doing.
Plot everything on a spreadsheet and go from there.
Good luck. What are you after, anyways?
Last edited:
harbor
Site Donor 2024
All of the above plus try to time the purchase at the end of the month, quarter or year as most OEMs have dealer incentives to bump up their sales figures.
Also, if you have anyone employed by an OEM in your circle of friends/relatives, they may be able to provide a “Friends & Family“ type of number for a discount.
Good luck with the search!
Also, if you have anyone employed by an OEM in your circle of friends/relatives, they may be able to provide a “Friends & Family“ type of number for a discount.
Good luck with the search!
The doc fee seems to be prevalent and non-negotiable in FL. The market has started to change in some areas and for some brands. Under MSRP is becoming more common again.
For sure on the doc fee. Inventory is still low, on orders they seem to be charging full MSRP is my sense.
