New truetrac require early change?

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I did not even ask, nor did the shop that installed my Detroit truetrac tell me about a break in, or early drain and refill. Just wondering if anyone has experience with truetrac and or a early drain and refill should be done?

I know I should have asked, but dropped vehicle off at 7 am and picked it up 5 minutes before closing and owner/installer had already left. I have roughly 1000 k now on it, and keep meaning to swing by and ask, but either end up forgetting or life happens.

Want to stay on top of it, I know this is a different rear end than the clutch style stock lsd, but wondering If different applications may still require more frequent maintenance.

Fluid was redline 75-90, 13 Jeep Sahara, no lift etc.
 
I would call the manufacturer for their recommendation. Did they install new bearings? Did you keep the same ring & pinion?

On the other hand it probably doesn't take more than 2 qts, pretty cheap insurance just to change it out. That way you can check for metal shavings etc.
 
Originally Posted by oldhp
I would call the manufacturer for their recommendation. Did they install new bearings? Did you keep the same ring & pinion?

On the other hand it probably doesn't take more than 2 qts, pretty cheap insurance just to change it out. That way you can check for metal shavings etc.


All new, bearings and all...the whole lot.
 
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by CT8
Something to ponder.



Ya if you read, I commented. A Detroit truetrac is a different type of rear end than stock. In either of years.

I have known what a trutrac is since they were first marketed. They are a differential.
 
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by CT8
Something to ponder.



Ya if you read, I commented. A Detroit truetrac is a different type of rear end than stock. In either of years.

I have known what a trutrac is since they were first marketed. They are a differential.


They are most definitely not like the stock lsd differential, which was clutch based, and he'll of a lot harsher on fluid and unit itself. Where truetrac
has been designed to be a clutch-less operation which makes this a reliable, long lasting limited slip differential.
 
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by CT8
Something to ponder.



Ya if you read, I commented. A Detroit truetrac is a different type of rear end than stock. In either of years.

I have known what a trutrac is since they were first marketed. They are a differential.


They are most definitely not like the stock lsd differential, which was clutch based, and he'll of a lot harsher on fluid and unit itself. Where truetrac
has been designed to be a clutch-less operation which makes this a reliable, long lasting limited slip differential.


But it falls short of actually locking the differential. When I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee it had a 4WD setting of PT which locked the differentials.
 
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by CT8
Something to ponder.
Ya if you read, I commented. A Detroit truetrac is a different type of rear end than stock. In either of years.
For clarity (and I posted it in the other thread), my axles are not LSD, they are ELD (electronic locking differentials) and thus I have no clutch packs to generate friction material in the oil. That not withstanding, I would dump it early just to get the break-in metals out and based my short experience with my Dana 44 axles, the lowest viscosity I would run would be 75W-110 in the front and 75W-140 in the rear.
 
I've had a TruTrac in my F150 9.75 Sterling rear end for years now. I kept my same ring & pinion but it is interesting that detroit told the install shop to use dino rear diff fluid. They put 80w90 conventional in it and I changed it to 75/140 synthetic after a couple hundred miles. Its been fine and its been several years now since it was installed. Truck has 507HP&630TQ
 
Not a TruTrac but back when I swapped out the old 10 bolt in my 94 Camaro Z28 with a Strange S60 with the Detroit Locker the procedure was to drive 50 miles at 45 MPH, let it do a full cooldown, then repeat until 500 miles were reached. Then dump the gear oil and replace. If you didn't replace the entire axle, you may not have needed such a break in process but it would still be a good idea to dump the initial fill to get out any of the break-in metals.
 
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