New Starter?

[jkasch]

I've inherited the volunteer job of mowing my church's grounds with a 100 Series John Deere that has a 31F707 Briggs engine. When trying to start it, the starter just clicks but doesn't engage or spin.

I installed a new fully charged battery and cleaned all the connections, but got the same result. However, giving the starter a couple good swift kicks with my foot did the trick and it started next try. It also seems to start fine when it's warmed up.

Any suggestions other than just installing a new starter?

Thanks

 

[EdwardC]

Kick it every time? Install a used starter?

 

[TLAR640]

On John Deere mowers powered by Kawasaki v-twins, I've had luck disassembling and lubing sticky starters. It would be worth a try.

 

[jkasch]

Originally Posted By: EdwardC
Kick it every time? Install a used starter?

LOL. Kicking it may be my plan until spring.

 

[Johnny2Bad]

The symptoms stink of a failed starter solenoid. It could also be the starter, maybe worn brushes, but they can all be rebuild for little cost, assuming the Church has no money. Not a difficult job for the handy, even if it's your first time. Check to see if there is a kit with all the replaceable parts included for that starter.

Hard to say what it would cost, but by way of example the kit to rebuild the older 65Amp Chevy alternators are like $20, versus three or more times that for a rebuilt one. If brushes alone, maybe $4.

You can test the solenoid to see if it's the problem.

Lots of replacement parts for those if you decide rebuilding the starter is beyond you, although brush replacement only is quite easy.

 

[jkasch]

Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
The symptoms stink of a failed starter solenoid. It could also be the starter, maybe worn brushes, but they can all be rebuild for little cost, assuming the Church has no money. Not a difficult job for the handy, even if it's your first time. Check to see if there is a kit with all the replaceable parts included for that starter.

Hard to say what it would cost, but by way of example the kit to rebuild the older 65Amp Chevy alternators are like $20, versus three or more times that for a rebuilt one. If brushes alone, maybe $4.

You can test the solenoid to see if it's the problem.

Lots of replacement parts for those if you decide rebuilding the starter is beyond you, although brush replacement only is quite easy.


Thanks. When I search for starter solenoids for the engine, I see what appear to be like a sending unit that’s separate from the starter itself, but there must be a solenoid within the starter that pushes the gear up to engage. Is that what we’re talking about?

 

[jkasch]

Thanks for replies. Been watching some YouTube videos. Pretty sure I'm all set on how to proceed.

 

[andyd]

Check for loose/dirty connections before buying anything

 

[eljefino]

Check for various interlocks under the seat etc that could prevent engagement.

The starter solenoid, if its separate, will have two big wires from the battery and starter and at least a third skinny wire to control it.

Sometimes this sort of thing clears up the more you use it, as you scrape the corrosion off the moving electrical parts.

Also, church is spelled with a small "c" unless you're worshiping church itself, not that bearded guy with the capital C.

 

[dwendt44]

e-bay has starters for many B&S engines.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: jkasch
31F707 Briggs engine.


Here's your starter motor:
Part# 693551
ebay

A little bit pricey for a Genuine Briggs & Stratton, but they have Chinese knock-offs for about $30.

Instead of paying tithing next month, just buy a starter.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Check for various interlocks under the seat etc that could prevent engagement.



I've had that be an issue with various riding mowers. You get a relay click but no joy. Sometimes you need to jumper safety switches one at a time to find the culprit.

 

[jkasch]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Check for various interlocks under the seat etc that could prevent engagement.

The starter solenoid, if its separate, will have two big wires from the battery and starter and at least a third skinny wire to control it.

Sometimes this sort of thing clears up the more you use it, as you scrape the corrosion off the moving electrical parts.

Also, church is spelled with a small "c" unless you're worshiping church itself, not that bearded guy with the capital C.


Thanks for the tips.
I’m not the one who used an upper case “c”, but since we’re being fussy, a noun should be capitalized if used in place is a proper noun. For example: We can’t see Mom today. Then again, this is an oil forum, so....

 

[jkasch]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: jkasch
31F707 Briggs engine.


Here's your starter motor:
Part# 693551
ebay

A little bit pricey for a Genuine Briggs & Stratton, but they have Chinese knock-offs for about $30.

Instead of paying tithing next month, just buy a starter.

Thanks. Bookmarked.

 

[Lubener]

Brushes are worn out in the starter.

 

[jkasch]

Update:

Okay. I replaced the starter and solenoid with genuine Briggs and new battery with a full charge. Same result, a click but no start. I shorted the new solenoid's poles and it started right up.

Only thing I can figure is I bought a defective solenoid. Could it possibly be anything else?

 

[chemman]

Check the connections between the ignition switch and the solenoid and make sure they are not dirty/corroded. Better yet, get a copy of the electrical schematic and ohm out the various circuits point to point to make sure all the connections are electrically good (low to zero resistance).

I had the same problem with my Craftsman rider a few years back and it would up being dirty contacts inside the ignition switch. Replaced it with an aftermarket switch (Stens brand) and have had no problems starting since. Also, the aftermarket starter I used began to go flaky after about a month of use. I rebuilt the original one and reinstalled it and have had zero problems.

Good luck!

 

[jkasch]

Originally Posted By: chemman
Check the connections between the ignition switch and the solenoid and make sure they are not dirty/corroded. Better yet, get a copy of the electrical schematic and ohm out the various circuits point to point to make sure all the connections are electrically good (low to zero resistance).

I had the same problem with my Craftsman rider a few years back and it would up being dirty contacts inside the ignition switch. Replaced it with an aftermarket switch (Stens brand) and have had no problems starting since. Also, the aftermarket starter I used began to go flaky after about a month of use. I rebuilt the original one and reinstalled it and have had zero problems.

Good luck!


Will do. Thanks!

 

[jkasch]

If anyone cares, the new solenoid was defective. All is well, finally.

 

[meep]

GOOD JOB!!! you did good to stick with it all the way through. And you have provided the church with a tool with new life in it.

-M