New KYB Strut Plus - popping noise on turns?

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Jun 5, 2016
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Location
California
Just replaced the two front struts on my 2000 Camry with the aforementioned brand. On slow turns I hear a knocking/popping noise coming from the left front.. Are the strut mount bearings a crapshoot with these quick struts? I ask because in my experience that has always been the cause of that type of sound..
 
Verify that your control arm bushings are good.
When I installed the struts I inspected it all. The only thing else I changed out along with the struts were the sway bar end links since the boots were ripped. Those parts were Beck Arnley.
 
When I installed the struts I inspected it all. The only thing else I changed out along with the struts were the sway bar end links since the boots were ripped. Those parts were Beck Arnley.
Based on your reply it appears the strut mount may be defective, unfortunately. Have not heard of that happening before but we all know today's part quality is suspect across all brands now a days.
 
Check if the top nut is tight on the struts. One was loose on my latest set of kyb quick struts and would clunk a bit.
Both sides have equal amount of threads exposed (which is just 2 threads) but I can always zip it real quick with my impact
 
That's why I always prefer to build my own struts keeping my original springs. I hear a lot of complaints about quick struts.
I was on the fence about this purchase because of that reason. This will be my last time going this route. Trying to save time by going this route will end up costing me more time because of R&R.
 
KYB very specifically says not to use an impact to tighten the nuts.

If you tighten it correctly with the car on the ground by hand, you should have no problems.

That's why I always prefer to build my own struts keeping my original springs. I hear a lot of complaints about quick struts.

That’s my preferred method, too. Sometimes you do need new springs though and these Camrys and parallel Lexus models go through rear springs in particular.
 
I was on the fence about this purchase because of that reason. This will be my last time going this route. Trying to save time by going this route will end up costing me more time because of R&R.
I think what they do is cut corners on parts quality to remain competitive on price for the whole unit. I rebuilt my struts using KYB gas cylinders, all new spring insulator pads, and the best mounts I could find. It wasn't easy, but in the end I didn't have any strange problems like an altered ride height or strange noises.
 
Did you tighten everything down with the weight on the suspension, and not before?
Yes that’s how I always do it even if I’m working with poly bushings. I allowed the car to sit on a jack stand via the lower ball joint then torqued the strut to knuckle bolts and then the top hat bolts.
 
KYB very specifically says not to use an impact to tighten the nuts.

If you tighten it correctly with the car on the ground by hand, you should have no problems.



That’s my preferred method, too. Sometimes you do need new springs though and these Camrys and parallel Lexus models go through rear springs in particular.
I’ve read that overtightened strut assembly’s can cause this noise issue as well
 
I’ve read that overtightened strut assembly’s can cause this noise issue as well
IME (I’ve helped a lot of people with this on the toyota forum) - the most common cause of this is not torqueing properly - particularly doing it un-sprung and then not doing it (or doing it again) with the car on the ground.

Check the sway bar links again also since you did them at the same time. They can very much make a “pop” if loose.
 
IME (I’ve helped a lot of people with this on the toyota forum) - the most common cause of this is not torqueing properly - particularly doing it un-sprung and then not doing it (or doing it again) with the car on the ground.

Check the sway bar links again also since you did them at the same time. They can very much make a “pop” if loose.
I’ll check again, thank you.
 
Money is the nuts aren't torqued properly.
Which ones? I have a recently calibrated CDI torque wrench that I’ve been using for years. Everything was torqued and mark with a paint marker to see if anything moved. All of the paint markings are still aligned and in the same spot.
 
Which ones? I have a recently calibrated CDI torque wrench that I’ve been using for years. Everything was torqued and mark with a paint marker to see if anything moved. All of the paint markings are still aligned and in the same spot.
Sorry- top main nuts. Mayne even need new ones.
 
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