New Honda EM6500X2AG Generator - Oil Recommendation?

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Jan 29, 2021
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Hello,

I‘m awaiting delivery on the above referenced generator. The book calls for 10w30 oil - so I’m considering Amsoil 10w30 Synthetic Small Engine oil. Is it okay to break-in an engine w/ this oil? Also, is this what most of you would use? I want to treat her right straight away. I would normally just go to Wallyworld and grab some Penzoil 10w30 dino oil so this boutique type of oil is new to me.

Thanks !
 
I've always advocated to follow OEM recommendations. They're the only ones with performance data and the engineering know how to develop a well reasoned specification.

Unfortunately, here at BITOG, you'll get impassioned suggestions for peoples favorites and preferences. Those same folks can't seem to come up with data and analysis to justify their off-spec recommendations though.

Stick to the OEM spec and you'll be fine.
 
Hello,

I‘m awaiting delivery on the above referenced generator. The book calls for 10w30 oil - so I’m considering Amsoil 10w30 Synthetic Small Engine oil. Is it okay to break-in an engine w/ this oil? Also, is this what most of you would use? I want to treat her right straight away. I would normally just go to Wallyworld and grab some Penzoil 10w30 dino oil so this boutique type of oil is new to me.

Thanks !
Some say you should break in an engine with conventional oil, but that's contested, to say the least. Were it mine, I'd probably run it a short interval on a dino like Chevron Supreme, PYB or VWB (or whatever it came with in the box), say, 10 hours, then drain it to remove the break-in materials, and move to something like M1 10w30 and sleep well. Our Honda mower (GCV160) did shed a lot of metal during the breakin (silvery oil upon draining). The synthetic does provide a bit of a cushion for more extreme use (say that you have to use it for a week without shutting it down, or you're running it in 100-degree heat nonstop).
 
I bought the genny online - I’m not even sure it comes w/ oil in the box. I have no qualms w/ the Honda oil - I’ll run to the local dealer and buy that if the common wisdom here is to do so.
 
Using the Amsoil product you indicated in a friends EU7000i (i think that is the model)

Lots of power outages in New England the last few years; I believe the OCI is 100 hours. That is a bit over 4 days. Not much when you think about it.

I believe amsoil indicates up to 200 hours.
 
Amsoil 10w30 is an excellent choice.

Honda HP4S 10w30 is another.

Redline or RoyalPurple HPS are some to consider.

Briggs has a synthetic 5w30 oil worth considering too.

And, don't forget Delvac Extreme 10w30 synthetic or Castrol 0w30 for colder climates.

You can break the engine in with whatever quality oil you want to. So, I would use the Amsoil as the break in oil.

The local Napa didn't have the 10w30 Amsoil ASE in stock, so I used the MCT. The generators and lawnmowers didn't complain.

I use synthetic because some of my engines go past the 100hr 4-days of continuous usage OE conventional change recommendation. And yes, if you run a generator for weeks on end, the 150-200hr interval certainly makes life a little less hectic when a hurricane or blizzard drops all the poles/lines and you're without power for a month.

So, I don't use use conventional oil in anything.
I do use similar grades and adapt for weather or availability. I don't get stuck on 10w30 or 5w30 or SAE30.... availability means they sometimes get a 0w40 or 5w40 too.
 
I use M1 10-30 in all my OPE including my Power Mate 5KW gen. The gen is now 12 years old and runs great.
 
I just bought a new generator and use the supplied 10w30 for break in. I will use synthetic 5w30 after because that is want I run in my mower, blower and washer. I live in Canada and I sometimes start engine (blower and generator) below -20c, if I were in a warmer area I would use synthetic 10w30. Whatever brand is on sale!
 
Don't overthink this. Been using Honda OPE including generators and inverters for 40 years. Worry much more about the fuel and it's treatment and care, than the oil. Not saying use $.99 store oil, but anything meeting specs is OK.

FWIW - Honda is very slow to adopt dual or tri fuel tech (propane, natural gas) . Aftermarket and competitors are robust, but Honda lags behind.
 
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Hello,

I‘m awaiting delivery on the above referenced generator. The book calls for 10w30 oil - so I’m considering Amsoil 10w30 Synthetic Small Engine oil. Is it okay to break-in an engine w/ this oil? Also, is this what most of you would use? I want to treat her right straight away. I would normally just go to Wallyworld and grab some Penzoil 10w30 dino oil so this boutique type of oil is new to me.

Thanks !
Excellent choice and be my first pic use with confidence and yes it's ok for break in.
 
Hello,

I‘m awaiting delivery on the above referenced generator. The book calls for 10w30 oil - so I’m considering Amsoil 10w30 Synthetic Small Engine oil. Is it okay to break-in an engine w/ this oil? Also, is this what most of you would use? I want to treat her right straight away. I would normally just go to Wallyworld and grab some Penzoil 10w30 dino oil so this boutique type of oil is new to me.

Thanks !
Welcome..

I don't believe there's a need for amsoil.. run a conventional for initial break-in.. then find a synthetic of your choice.. Mobil 1, Castrol, super tech, valvoline or napa would be my picks.
 
I've run mostly Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage in my OPE for years now due to it's 3.5 HTHS viscosity. The elder sages here say that straight SAE 30 had a 3.7 HTHS viscosity. At present my generators have Rotella T6 5w-40 in the sump because of the wide temperature range they might be called upon to run in. Some of my warm weather lawn toys have started transitioning to Rotella T6 15w-40 given that they won't ever be started at a temperature below 40 degrees.

I am not familiar with your generator. If it stays outside in the weather, then you need to consider the minimum starting temperature. My generators are stored in the garage. My garage seldom cools to below 32F. The rules don't change. Plan for your lowest starting temperature and your highest operating temperature.
 
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I ended up grabbing a few bottles of the Honda oil. Its SN rated, and it was cheap enough at 4.75 a bottle. If the globe warms up more and the weather knocks me out more frequently or for longer periods, maybe I’ll switch it up to the Amsoil or something else.
 
I used Honda oil to break-in my honda generator. Worked great.
I changed the oil every 5 hours until the break-in glitter was flushed out, then switched to Mobil 1. The new engine will produce some wear materials that you want to flush out with frequent oil changes. That's one reason many people advocate for using basic 10W-30 oil for the initial fills. After that, you can fill with the more expensive top-of-the-line oils. Why waste money on expensive oils when they just get dumped after a few hours.
 
I always break them in on Dino oil, and move to synthetic afterwards. That’s probably dated thinking from when synthetics first came to market in the 80s and it was found that synthetics prevented proper ring bedding during break-in. Manufacturing is better now, and the 80s syns were likely gp IV while the common stuff today is gp III.

I just added an eu2200 to the fleet last week, and then immediately loaned it to my boss. It got the Honda oil and I’m hoping he will put it through its paces. After that it will get synthetic, and I’ll set it up for extended run. I do prefer synthetic oils for gensets which may run around the clock. I really haven’t decided on whether I’ll add a propane kit or just stay unleaded. Portability is easier unleaded.

m
 
Any quality synthetic will do very well. It's good to note that the Honda generators and associated engines are very well designed and do not overheat their oil. High oil temperatures are the reason I often correctly suggest higher viscosity oils in lesser quality portable generators. During hurricane related outages, locally we had a stunning number of generator engine failures.

It's good to note that there are differences between oils, and air cooled engines do best with an oil that has a higher HTHS (viscosity rating at 150c). By memory, the HTHS of a 10W-30 should be 2.9 or higher. More robust 10W-30 oils have an HTHS of 3.5.

Equally important is an oil's resistance to shearing. In general (don't cut my head off, I did not use the word "always") an oil with a wider viscosity spread 0W-40, for example uses more Viscosity Index Improvers and Pour Point Suppressants. Leading to shearing over time. Especially in certain types of engines (motorcycles come to mind, as do generators)

Your thought of using Amsoil is a good one. It has high HTHS and is very shear resistant. Is it necessary? Not really. Might it be helpful in some situations? Yes!
 
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