New here, need some advice.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: bigmike
I think that you may want to check into the FF. Some manufacturers suggest you keep it for the entire OCI.

0w20 or 5w20 should be fine. For warranty purposes, anything that fits the bill in your user manual.


Actually no. For warranty purposes anything that is printed on the warranty certificate / document fits the bill. The manual is a guide and purely a "recommendation" and is not a binding document to warranty revocation at all - unless of course there is a "this document herein lies the warranty compliance that Toyota..."
 
I have 341,600 miles on my accord and most of it (almost all) was on regular conventional oils such as supertech, Pennzoil conventional, castrol GTX. and about 100K ago, I began some ARX treatments. Of course, my OCI's were about 4 to 5K. For you, I would ignore the OLM and do 5K intervals with 5w-20. PP or M1 with rebates. you will have an extremely clean engine at low cost changes. 5K with Synthetic may seem like overkill, but if you want it to last, the added expense of lower OCI's is nothing compared to a car payment.
 
Originally Posted By: joel95ex
I have 341,600 miles on my accord and most of it (almost all) was on regular conventional oils such as supertech, Pennzoil conventional, castrol GTX. and about 100K ago, I began some ARX treatments. Of course, my OCI's were about 4 to 5K. For you, I would ignore the OLM and do 5K intervals with 5w-20. PP or M1 with rebates. you will have an extremely clean engine at low cost changes. 5K with Synthetic may seem like overkill, but if you want it to last, the added expense of lower OCI's is nothing compared to a car payment.


What is an OLM?

And you guys said I can switch over to synthetic at anytime? I have heard from other people on other forums and such that you cant switch until 5k miles, or 10k miles, 20k miles etc.
 
I like a lot of what hate2work suggested.

I subscribe to the "treat your car well and it will treat you well" philosophy and maintain my cars as if I will keep them forever. Therefore I don't mind spending a bit more for the best oil I can get for my cars. The extra money spent on high quality oil (what, $60 a year) is a pittance compared to the investment in the car and even the gas consumed. It is a good feeling of getting a new car and treating it to "the best" oil for it's entire life. IMO the peace of mind and the long term results are worth it. I have seen tear downs of engines that spent their entire life on very high quality oil. It is worth the little extra cost IMO. Just my advice. Feel free to ignore.
 
OLM stands for Oil Life Monitor. A lot of newer cars have them; they're basically one or more sensors hooked up to the engine computer. The computer uses the sensors to tell you when you need to change the oil. It uses a combination of how many miles you have on the oil, engine temperatures, and other data. I think every new Honda has one now; my Ridgeline has one.

With modern engines that are typically built to close tolerances, you can switch to synthetic anytime. In fact, many auto manufacturers use synthetic or synthetic blend oils as their factory fills.

Follow the owner's manual recommendation for changing out the factory fill. I've never owned a new Toyota but I'm pretty sure the owner's manual will tell you, explicitly or implicitly, to follow the same OCI for it as for any subsequent oil changes. Such was the case with my Ridgeline - the owner manual simply said to follow the OLM even for the factory fill. But, like lots of people here on BITOG, I was a lot more conservative and changed the factory fill at 3500 miles (and that's not as conservative as a lot of folks here).

Amsoil makes good oil, and a lot of people here swear by it. You won't go wrong using one of their oils.

And... welcome to BITOG!
 
Originally Posted By: raffy
OLM stands for Oil Life Monitor. A lot of newer cars have them; they're basically one or more sensors hooked up to the engine computer. The computer uses the sensors to tell you when you need to change the oil. It uses a combination of how many miles you have on the oil, engine temperatures, and other data. I think every new Honda has one now; my Ridgeline has one.

With modern engines that are typically built to close tolerances, you can switch to synthetic anytime. In fact, many auto manufacturers use synthetic or synthetic blend oils as their factory fills.

Follow the owner's manual recommendation for changing out the factory fill. I've never owned a new Toyota but I'm pretty sure the owner's manual will tell you, explicitly or implicitly, to follow the same OCI for it as for any subsequent oil changes. Such was the case with my Ridgeline - the owner manual simply said to follow the OLM even for the factory fill. But, like lots of people here on BITOG, I was a lot more conservative and changed the factory fill at 3500 miles (and that's not as conservative as a lot of folks here).

Amsoil makes good oil, and a lot of people here swear by it. You won't go wrong using one of their oils.

And... welcome to BITOG!



The manual/maintenance guide does not specifically say anything about the factory fill other than the first oil change should be at 5000/6 months, and to continue that OCI for the life of the car basically. I don't see any reason why changing the oil sooner would matter, but I have seen some people argue that "piston rings wont seat properly if you change to synthetic before x amount of miles."

Also, when I switch from conventional to amsoil xl synthetic do I need to do anything special?
 
5000mi should be totally fine. No reason to do more or less, IMO. Most of the break in will be done by then, and the rest will take another 10K.

Optional: You might add a flush product like Auto-RX, SeaFoam, or Amsoil Engine Flush to the factory fill 500 mi before your oil change to help wash out whatever stuff might have come loose during break in.

It's no biggie to go to synthetic.
 
What is Toyota recommend for its oil change interval on its engine? My 2006 is 5,000 miles which makes syn oil not really of any value.
 
Originally Posted By: Kaboomba
5000mi should be totally fine. No reason to do more or less, IMO. Most of the break in will be done by then, and the rest will take another 10K.

Optional: You might add a flush product like Auto-RX, SeaFoam, or Amsoil Engine Flush to the factory fill 500 mi before your oil change to help wash out whatever stuff might have come loose during break in.

It's no biggie to go to synthetic.


So you are saying leave the factory fill until 5k, then switch to synthetic?


Originally Posted By: Steve S
What is Toyota recommend for its oil change interval on its engine? My 2006 is 5,000 miles which makes syn oil not really of any value.


They reccomend a 5k OCI. I know synthetic isnt as pratical with that kind of OCI, but I want to run syn in this car. I guess I dont have any great reason to do it other than I want to.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BrianR
Originally Posted By: raffy
OLM stands for Oil Life Monitor. A lot of newer cars have them; they're basically one or more sensors hooked up to the engine computer. The computer uses the sensors to tell you when you need to change the oil. It uses a combination of how many miles you have on the oil, engine temperatures, and other data. I think every new Honda has one now; my Ridgeline has one.

With modern engines that are typically built to close tolerances, you can switch to synthetic anytime. In fact, many auto manufacturers use synthetic or synthetic blend oils as their factory fills.

Follow the owner's manual recommendation for changing out the factory fill. I've never owned a new Toyota but I'm pretty sure the owner's manual will tell you, explicitly or implicitly, to follow the same OCI for it as for any subsequent oil changes. Such was the case with my Ridgeline - the owner manual simply said to follow the OLM even for the factory fill. But, like lots of people here on BITOG, I was a lot more conservative and changed the factory fill at 3500 miles (and that's not as conservative as a lot of folks here).

Amsoil makes good oil, and a lot of people here swear by it. You won't go wrong using one of their oils.

And... welcome to BITOG!



The manual/maintenance guide does not specifically say anything about the factory fill other than the first oil change should be at 5000/6 months, and to continue that OCI for the life of the car basically. I don't see any reason why changing the oil sooner would matter, but I have seen some people argue that "piston rings wont seat properly if you change to synthetic before x amount of miles."

Also, when I switch from conventional to amsoil xl synthetic do I need to do anything special?


The piston ring seating thing used to be true for older engines built to looser tolerances. Today it's not so much of an issue. Also, it's likely that Toyota put some sort of synthetic blend in for the factory fill. Just go ahead and put in the Amsoil XL at the next change. Since the car is new, you don't need to use any engine flush.

I was so anxious to get the factory fill out of my Ridgeline that I took it to a quick change place for its first oil change. They put a Valvoline conventional oil in there and my gas mileage dropped slightly and the engine ran a bit louder. Definitely a mistake! I changed over to Amsoil at the next change after that. Gas mileage recovered to where it was for the factory fill, or perhaps slightly better. You might also notice a similar trend in your car if you put conventional in it. Go with the Amsoil on your next change and enjoy the performance!
 
the only argument i have heard for leaving the FF (factory fill) in longer is some people say it has different additives similar to what a "break-in" oil would have in it....not sure if this is true since i believe some cars are FF with regular M1
 
Good advice given. I think the engine is broken in by 1000 miles for the purposes of switching to a synthetic or draining the oil. Although I do think the engine continues "break in" for sometime after that. The reason I say that is because typically a car would test faster up to 30K miles later than when new, although I don't know that it's a case of break in in the sense of oil changing or if this is the case with newer models.

The FF also probably contains assembly lube which is an anti-wear that is probably still in the oil so there's reason to leave the FF in up till the regular recommend change interval. On the other hand, there may be wear particles circulating that the filter doesn't catch, plus new oil will have new anti-wear additives. So I'm of the school of changing the oil and filter by 1500 miles and getting all the wear metals out.
 
I just switched to the Amsoil XL 5w20 at 3000 miles. I drained all the oil, removed the oil filter, then I refilled 4 qts and replaced the filter. The oil level is past the full mark on the dipstick, but the manual actually called for 4.5qts with a filter. Should I be worried about it being high?
 
Originally Posted By: BrianR
I just switched to the Amsoil XL 5w20 at 3000 miles. I drained all the oil, removed the oil filter, then I refilled 4 qts and replaced the filter. The oil level is past the full mark on the dipstick, but the manual actually called for 4.5qts with a filter. Should I be worried about it being high?


Depends on how high. A little no problem. More than that could be.

I overfilled my Subaru (since it has the WORST dipstick known to man) by I figure 1/3 of a quart and it sprayed oil all over the hood and engine out the dipstick tube.

I just keep it a little under. Only happened once.

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: BrianR
I just switched to the Amsoil XL 5w20 at 3000 miles. I drained all the oil, removed the oil filter, then I refilled 4 qts and replaced the filter. The oil level is past the full mark on the dipstick, but the manual actually called for 4.5qts with a filter. Should I be worried about it being high?


Depends on how high. A little no problem. More than that could be.

I overfilled my Subaru (since it has the WORST dipstick known to man) by I figure 1/3 of a quart and it sprayed oil all over the hood and engine out the dipstick tube.

I just keep it a little under. Only happened once.

Bill


Its kinda hard to tell because the oil looks so clear on the dip stick, but it appears to be about 1/4-3/8" past the full mark.
 
I have always change the oil in a new car at 500miles and continued with factory fill type oil until 5,000 miles. At 5,000 miles I would change to synthetic and keep on truck'n. A quality oil in the factory recommended weight for your climate should be great. I dont really consider switching around with alternate weights unless my specific use for the vehicle is considered extreme conditions. My primary decision is -dino or sny and which brand. I like the following:

DINO-
Pennzoil conventional
Valvoline (white bottle)
Havoline DS

SYNTHETHIC-
Mobil 1 (full sny)
Valovline (synpower)
Pennzoil (plat)

HEAVY DUTY-
Rotella T
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom