New Discs/Rotors

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Changed out my front pads and rotors about 45k miles ago. I bought some zinc plated blank rotors which are holding up great and a set of semi-metallic pads (Axxis).

I'm getting ready to switch out my rear pads and replace the rotors with a set of zinc plated rotors. These rotors hold up well and look great, keeping the unsightly rust off the edges and hub.

My question is, when I go to do this work, I'll probably switch out my front pads as well. I plan to use Akebono (sp) ceramic pads on the back and the front. Do I need to replace the front rotors?

I always hear that the rotors need to be replaced when changing pads, but I don't understand why. Will the semi-metallic friction material on the rotors prevent the ceramic material from transplanting during bedding procedures?
 
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If your rotors are in good shape there is no reason to trash them. Just make sure they meet thickness requirements and don't have a huge lip that interfere with the new pads.

I had a set of the Akebono Euro on my last Bimmer and I loved them. Good choice!
 
Tks for the reply. I wasn't sure if they needed to be turned...in which case I'd just go ahead and get a new set of rotors.
 
From what I understand, you can take some light grit sandpaper and scuff the rotors, if they don't need to be turned, to remove any old pad transfer.
 
Generally the rotors must be resurfaced if the friction material is not identical to what was previously used.

Honda, GM, Toyota, Nissan etc all state that the rotor does not need to be resurfaced or replaced during a routine pad change as long as the rotor does not exceed runout, disc thickness variation and scoring limits. However, this is assuming that you reuse the previously used friction material. If you notice, Honda has put out several bulletins over the years with regards to installing updated pads to cure a certain noise problem. In those bulletins, resurfacing the rotors using an OCL is ALWAYS required.

I would resurface the front rotors. If you were using Axxis pads previously, you'll probably be disappointed with the Akebonos. They last longer, but the braking performance will be a significant downgrade. Be careful how you bed in the Akebonos, they don't handle high temperatures very well and tend to glaze easily.
 
You don't need to turn the rotors, scuff anything, or worry a lot. Just change the pads, break them in normally, and drive.

Unless you're driving a high performance, bet-your-life-every-moment kind of car or in that fashion, or have purchased pads that require specific actions, don't worry about it.

The new pads will wear off anything that was there from the last pads within a week. Never had any problems doing it that way.
 
That may be true in the past, but the pads on the market today are incredibly sensitive to installation.

In fact, most brake manufacturers now require the rotors to be washed with soap and water after refinishing as there have been many problems with metal particles (leftover from refinishing) embedding themselves into the pad material and causing noise problems. This gives you an idea as to how sensitive the pads can be.
 
Originally Posted By: Mr_Incredible
You don't need to turn the rotors, scuff anything, or worry a lot. Just change the pads, break them in normally, and drive.

Unless you're driving a high performance, bet-your-life-every-moment kind of car or in that fashion, or have purchased pads that require specific actions, don't worry about it.

The new pads will wear off anything that was there from the last pads within a week. Never had any problems doing it that way.



I now always have the rotors turned to start out with a new surface for the new pads to seat to. The one time I skipped turning rotors I end up with squeal and brake judder and got annoyed and had to re-do it. Having to re-do a brake job because of skipping this step is a PIA and not worth the time & aggravation. IMO :no-no:
 
If you like the Axxis (Metalmasters?), I would continue with those. If you want less dust, go Axxis Deluxe. I wouldn't even swap the rear rotors unless you're having more than a cosmetic issue. And leave the front rotors alone unless you have problems with vibration or ridges. Save your money. Don't fix what ain't broke.
 
Originally Posted By: PT1

I now always have the rotors turned to start out with a new surface for the new pads to seat to. The one time I skipped turning rotors I end up with squeal and brake judder and got annoyed and had to re-do it. Having to re-do a brake job because of skipping this step is a PIA and not worth the time & aggravation. IMO :no-no:


I must be living right, then. At least five times doing it that way and nary the tiniest problem with any of that.

I'd better figure out what I'm doing and start selling it on Ebay...
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
That may be true in the past, but the pads on the market today are incredibly sensitive to installation.

In fact, most brake manufacturers now require the rotors to be washed with soap and water after refinishing as there have been many problems with metal particles (leftover from refinishing) embedding themselves into the pad material and causing noise problems. This gives you an idea as to how sensitive the pads can be.


In this case "in the past" is within the last two years or so. I would consider that relevant.

Dunno. I've bought new discs and only wiped with solvent. Bout new discs and used right out of the box with no solvent wipe. New ceramic pads with nothing special. New cheap pads the same way. Never had shudder, judder, squeaks, squeals, pops, drops, or shimmy.

It does make me wonder what the problems are that other people are having. Improper bedding in or too tempermental of compounds? Bad rotors? Not cleaning rust and goo from behind the new rotors?

If I'm doing it wrong, I'll keep it up anyway. Regular driving over a week or so before pushing the limits and basic brake rotor hygiene have worked for me.
 
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