I replaced my 11 WRX clutch kit with a Sachs clutch. Just a factory replacement clutch, new flywheel, pilot bearing etc. After lubing everything and cleaning it all up the pedal is noticably easier to push down however something I noticed is it grabs sooner and there is a spot in the pedal when letting up on it that it's not super smooth/easy to modulate. It is stiff and then hits a spot where it gets easier. It's not huge but it's enough to throw you off when taking off. Anyone else every experienced anything like this with a brand new clutch. It's the first clutch I've ever replaced in my own car. I've replaced several in the shop but I didn't know there car and how it felt before doing it to be so sensitive to a change in the feel of the clutch. Give it time to break in maybe it'll get better?
New clutch feel vs old
- Thread starter wheelman
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I noticed the same thing when I put a luk clutch kit in my jeep. Took a few days to either wear in or I got used to it .
Clutches are a lot like shocks. When you replace them you notice a big change. I replaced a clutch in a small truck and I swear it felt like you had to be a strong man to operate. It felt really hard to operate compared to the old worn clutch. Drove it a week and got used to it and everything was good.
Was this a hydraulic system?
You're breaking in a new clutch as well as a new pressure plate. The non-progressive feeling in the pedal may be the new fingers on the pressure plate.
Did you remove and grease the clutch fork and inspect it to make sure it wasn't bent or damaged when replacing the TOB? Because your symptoms sound more like a clutch fork, which is really common on Subaru because they use a stamped piece. You can probably inspect the pivot for damage and cracks on the fork with a borescope.
www.subaruoutback.org
Did you remove and grease the clutch fork and inspect it to make sure it wasn't bent or damaged when replacing the TOB? Because your symptoms sound more like a clutch fork, which is really common on Subaru because they use a stamped piece. You can probably inspect the pivot for damage and cracks on the fork with a borescope.
Clutch fork failure
www.subaruoutback.org
Did you replace, turn or dress the flywheel?
Replaced with a brand new one
NO! Never put grease on the flywheel. Go over it with sandpaper or a surfacing disc to remove any glazing to give the new clutch a better bite.
The clutch fork. Not the flywheel. Flywheel was a new luk flywheel.
hey thanks for the update on your new clutch. When I replaced my stock Civic clutch with an exedy stage 1, it grabbed a lot sooner because the pressure plate was much, much stronger. I know stage 1 clutches are for engines with more power than stock but I wanted something more positive/stronger. I thought it grabbed earlier compared to stock, the engagement point was more obvious because it was stronger. I had to check the clutch pedal push rod distance. Service manual will tell you how to measure yours. That can affect the engagement point. Mine needed only a tweak for the distance. The other thing that happened was when brand new it was like an on/off switch for the engagement point. As it broke in, that smoothed out and was much easier to modulate, but it took maybe 200 miles of shifting to get there.
also.. I did notice that the higher pressures of the pressure plate made it a lot easier/smoother to modulate, here I thought it would be harder to push the pedal, just the opposite.
