I have read numerous threads on here regarding what sounds like a similar problem, and have followed the advice I found, to no avail. I have two cars that needed front pads replaced at the same time; one is a 2003 Camry w/150k, the other a 2016 Outback w/62k. I used Carquest Gold on the Camry, Carquest Standard on the Outback, both ceramic. Before replacing I checked the rotors, and they were smooth on both cars. I greased the mounting notches and sliding pins on both. I did the repeated accelerate/stop break in. They worked great with smooth, quiet, effective stopping when up to speed. However, when inching forward at a redlight or backing out of the garage, applying the brakes produced a significant noise. Not a high pitched "squeal", but more of a loud "creak" like a big, old door opening. So today, I took the front wheels off of the Toyota, removed the calipers and rotors, regreased the notches for the pads, and cleaned everything thoroughly with Brakleen. Reassembled and torqued everything to spec. Result: Better, but still "grabby" and loud creak when applying brakes at very low speed. Once up to speed, braking is excellent. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated; thanks in advance.
New brake pads, new noise
- Thread starter mojoe
- Start date
was this a pad slap?
Yep.
That could be the problem did you try using a green scouring pad and roughing up the rotors the new pads may be glazing over the old pad material. I would go in circular motions one way and back the other. We don't know the general condition of these rotors maybe post some pictures the group can help determine if you're wasting good pads or not.
Being it was a pad slap, the existing rotors might be glazed from the old pads, causing some noise. I would either have the rotors re-surfaced, or buy new ones.
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YIKES!! Not good at all. At the very minimum I would run a flex hone when I was on a tight budget. In my lifetime i have never ever done a "pad slap" as you call it.
Just to be clear that I am not misunderstanding. A pad slap meaning just installing pads and doing nothing else? Replacing brake fluid? I have never heard of anyone just replacing pads. I guess I learned something new today.
It happens a lot more often than you'd want to believe. Youtube is loaded with pad slap videos. Its one thing for the vehicle owner slapping new pads on but how about a shop or dealer selling you a $400 brake job and all they do is slap pads on. No cutting the rotors no pulling the slides to inspect and re lube not changing the abutment hardware. But lots of people do a Saturday or Sunday pad slap in their driveway and send it sometimes with success and sometimes without. Powerstop Z17 pads are fairly forgiving for pad slaps is what I read, not sure why maybe they're softer ceramic that just conforms to existing rotor surfaces and are also thermo-scorched for a quicker bed-in.
This is why I order rotors and pads from rockauto.
I dont like to redo brake jobs. I do them because I'm cheap.. not because I like to.
$100 per axle for 2 rotors and pads is an excellent investment in hopefully not having to touch them again for years
I dont like to redo brake jobs. I do them because I'm cheap.. not because I like to.
$100 per axle for 2 rotors and pads is an excellent investment in hopefully not having to touch them again for years
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That is absolutely frightening.
Several OEMs now condone pad slaps and our foreign members confirm it's common in places like AU and the UK (I think). I'm still not excited about it but it can work. I insist on at least having the rotors turned which is relatively inexpensive at O'Reilly
I would take something to surface the rotors -- woven abrasive or sandpaper. Whichever you're comfortable with. And then I might sand the pads on my belt sander (wear respirator and take off as little as possible) and start anew. Yes, I've done this before.
I would take something to surface the rotors -- woven abrasive or sandpaper. Whichever you're comfortable with. And then I might sand the pads on my belt sander (wear respirator and take off as little as possible) and start anew. Yes, I've done this before.
The Camry rotors have been turned before, so based on what I'm hearing here, new rotors are almost certainly the answer there. There's also a very slight vibration when first applying the brakes on the Outback, so it's looking that way for the Subie too. I tried to get out cheap, and paying in the long run. Lesson learned.
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New Rotors will solve the issue.
If you order carefully with RA closeouts (and a bit of luck on timing) you can often get new rotors for less or equal to having them turned. But obviously this won't always work or shipping might kill the deal.
I'll also try Amazon Warehouse Deals but you have to be ready to return the part(s) if they're damaged or simply the wrong thing altogether.
Don’t sweat it been there before with wrenching. Depending on if and how much beaten up the new pads gotten I would just run through Amazon pick up some inexpensive rotors and call it what it is don’t go dumping bucks into what’s already been done. Just stay away from the slotted/drilled garbage.
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For a Camry then I agree. As a performance upgrade for tracking then slotted and drilled are the only way to go.
Rotor condition issue. As the pads wear-in you may find the noise to go away. It takes a while though....ceramic pads generally wear the rotors very little.
I've done driveway pad slaps forever. Sometimes I might get a noise that re-bedding normally takes care of. My slaps do include clean and relubricating of all caliper slide pins and contact points.
I do need to invest in one of the flex hones for future just to clean them up a bit better.
I do need to invest in one of the flex hones for future just to clean them up a bit better.
Unless you have a way for the rotor to rotate, I don't know how you'll use a flex-hone effectively. How would you ensure even material removal across the entire rotor surface?
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Best guess method? Try to scuff evenly all around. Sort of like do at times now with some emery cloth just back and forth a few times all around. Kind of like THIS starting at 7 minutes. Worst case as it's just my cars, if I have pulsing or other issues, I can order up rotors and do and replace them. Maybe get the current ones cut as "spare". The one machine shop by me that used to do them closed down
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Just keep the hone moving and don't stop in one spot. I personally just use an old bore hone and not the specific one made for rotors.
Me as well. Depending on the wear you can get two to three rotor cuts before they are at the wear limit. You can always go to a local auto parts store or brake shop to have them turned.Maybe get the current ones cut as "spare". The one machine shop by me that used to do them closed down
As a rule if my brakes were smooth before replacing and my fingernail does not catch then I hone them. I do my brakes at about 30% wear in front and in sets of 4 instead of just the fronts. Cheap insurance
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