New 2013 5.0 Mustang

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BobThe

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Jun 27, 2011
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Today I am looking to purchase a new 2013 Coyote Mustang. It's a 2013 and I am sure has been on the lot for a while now since it has a build date of 10/12. I know Ford recommends it get changed either by the OLM or at 1 year and 10k miles.

I know Honda says not to change their factory fill until the OLM says to due to some sort of break in additive they put in it. Since this new car has had the same oil in the sump for 1.5 years, do you guys think it should get changed ASAP, or still follow the OLM?
 
Good Luck on the purchase. I hope this dealer is willing and able to make a great deal for you versus the deal I tried to make recently on a 2013 F150. I could have bought the truck the day it hit their lot last year (over nine months ago) for the same price they could give me now. Absolutely no price movement to sell a year old, new truck. Good luck as well with all the convoluted Ford incentives and rebates too.
 
Another new car without an OEM owners manual.

Just ask the dealer to provide you with an owners manual.

Read it, absorb it, understand it and then apply it.
 
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Oil doesn't really break-down just from sitting in the sump for 18 months. I would take it out on the highway for 20-30 minutes and burn off any moisture that may have accumulated.
 
I imagine you will get more answers than you know what to do with so here is my
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...


Beautiful car - Enjoy it!
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I am sure for the past 1.5 years this car has moved 30 feet, then sat and repeated over and over again. I was thinking about driving it for a couple thousand miles then dumping it.

As for this comment:
"Another new car without an OEM owners manual.

Just ask the dealer to provide you with an owners manual.

Read it, absorb it, understand it and then apply it."

I've read it. It says what I stated to start with. They say to follow the OLM or 1 year and 10k miles as I recall (I am not looking at it at the moment) which made me ask the question since it has been 1.5 years. That means I should dump it since 1.5 years is more than 1 year. But since it is the OEM fill, I thought I would ask.

The deal is about $7k off sticker which they say is $500 under invoice. We will see when I get in there and start kicking around numbers in person. We have been doing everything over email to this point.

We will see if they want to try to make sure of their money back on financing. I seriously don't trust dealers.
 
Originally Posted By: quarterliter
Don't forget to break it in HARD. Lots of load and no crazy high rpms.


How high is crazy high RPM's? Keep it under 5k? 6k? How many miles before it can go to crazy?
 
Originally Posted By: BobThe
Originally Posted By: quarterliter
Don't forget to break it in HARD. Lots of load and no crazy high rpms.


How high is crazy high RPM's? Keep it under 5k? 6k? How many miles before it can go to crazy?



Modern engines are largely broken in before you buy them. They're dynoed and tested before they leave the factory.
 
Originally Posted By: BobThe
Originally Posted By: quarterliter
Don't forget to break it in HARD. Lots of load and no crazy high rpms.


How high is crazy high RPM's? Keep it under 5k? 6k? How many miles before it can go to crazy?


The trick is upper gears and big throttle openings. Use the trans to control the revs if you like.

I broke my 6.1 in very hard, and I was rewarded with more power, cleaner intake from less blow by, and zero oil consumption even at road course track days.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: BobThe
Originally Posted By: quarterliter
Don't forget to break it in HARD. Lots of load and no crazy high rpms.


How high is crazy high RPM's? Keep it under 5k? 6k? How many miles before it can go to crazy?



Modern engines are largely broken in before you buy them. They're dynoed and tested before they leave the factory.


Vastly inconsistent by mfgr. Some are pre run on a machine that spins them but there is no combustion, some are elaborately dyno'd on a real fixture, some are driven a couple of miles, some are started for the first time at the end of the line, some are actually driver tested on a road course with instrumentation (Ferarri), etc.

Very few high volume cars are pre run, typically only higher priced with lower production numbers...
 
I'd change it at 500-1000 miles. I recently bought a new '13 with a built date of 06/13. I changed at 1000 miles, but left the OE filter in (cartridge). I've bought a couple that were on the lot for > 1 year. In those I changed around 750.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: BobThe
Originally Posted By: quarterliter
Don't forget to break it in HARD. Lots of load and no crazy high rpms.


How high is crazy high RPM's? Keep it under 5k? 6k? How many miles before it can go to crazy?



Modern engines are largely broken in before you buy them. They're dynoed and tested before they leave the factory.


Typically, a mass produced engine is not dynoed . The testing may include a run and OBD check. It can vary, pretty much what Steve said.
 
My Mitsubishi sat on a car lot for a while before I got it. I changed the oil at 1200 miles, but I had a different reason: I only use synthetic oil in turbo engines, and the FF might not be synthetic. At ~35,000 miles, I am doing fine.

My mom got a deal on her 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee right at the end of the year. The salesman told my mom that changing the oil first at 2000 miles was smart. That was the first time I ever heard of changing FF early.

Hyundai once bragged about road testing each Sonata from their factory in the USA. I don't know if they still test them all, but the factory still makes Sonatas.
 
Originally Posted By: BobThe
........................... As for this comment:
"Another new car without an OEM owners manual ...................... I seriously don't trust dealers.


BobThe my post was not aimed at you in particular rather to forum in general as I often find threads are now posted where BITOG is requested to advise on how to run in new vehicles.

I find this phenomena amazing firstly cause BITOG appears to me to be elevated to a status above the OEM manual and BITOG members freely give advice without any warranty backup.

I was hoping you would take heed to my "Read it, absorb it, understand it and then apply it" to the OEM manual as IMO the OEM should be the first point of consultation especially there is a warranty for the nominated period in question.

As you have clearly said you are aware of what the manual says and are asking as the vehicle has been sitting for some time; fair enough.

IMO view oil is said to have a shelf life of up to 5 years so in your case whether the oil sat in the original oil container on in your sump during this 6 month period will be of little consequence.

Vehicles manufactured oversees from the time these are ready to leave the factory for shipment to the date these are sold for on road use in Australia the time period can easily be between 2 - 6 months. There are no special instructions I am aware of for periods such as this to alter the normal run in procedure.
 
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