New 2010 Hyundai Engine knocking When Cold 3.5 V6

[crazyoildude]

The 2010 santa fe with the 3.5 engine knocks very bad when cold for about 5 minutes or so... I will bring it back to the dealer on Monday someone there tried to tell me that they all sound like that until they found out i owned an engine shop and i said i would like to listen to a couple of others when i came in.
( Without even seeing the car he told me that oh thats normal because on that year santa fe the oil drains into the oil pan when you shut off the engine) At that point i told him to stop talking that i was in the engine business, he was then on his best behavior, honestly so far everyone was very nice at that dealer...I just hope they dont have to take out that motor because im pretty sure it would never be the same.. He also said if it did need a motor it would be a brand new crated engine from the factory which would be the only way i would be happy...I hope i will not be in for a long battle the good news is i have certified engine builders working for me and my wife is a Lawyer...Lets see

 

[StevieC]

These engines are normally not problematic at all.

Check the engine oil is the right weight being used and check that you are using a Hyundai OEM filter.

If all that is ok most likely it's the timing chain tensioner.

I have the technical manual for this engine if you need help please PM me.

Steve

 

[simple_gifts]

Quote:

because on that year santa fe the oil drains into the oil pan when you shut off the engine


As opposed to all the other cars....

Isn't there some sort of TSB from Hyundai regarding using a factory filter to reduce start up noise. StevieC?

 

[Cup of Joe]

I had a 3.5L in my 2004 amanti, original engine had a knock right off the lot only when cold out, not 70f but 30-40f. It also was consuming oil right from the start. It was replaced with a short block, they reported it as 1 bad piston. The 2nd replacement was a complete crate. The short block replacement started knocking, running rough and had noticeable blue smoke when it got back to the dealer some 15k miles later.

The 2004 3.5L had belt driven cams, I would have to check but I believe they are chain drive now. Not sure about other changes. Hyundai/kia changed the viscosity requirements 2 years after my 2nd engine went boom from 30wts to 40 and 50wts. This graph used to be totally different a couple years ago, 10w30 is still acceptable.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:

because on that year santa fe the oil drains into the oil pan when you shut off the engine


As opposed to all the other cars....

Isn't there some sort of TSB from Hyundai regarding using a factory filter to reduce start up noise. StevieC?


Yes but it only applies to the 4 Cylinder and 2.7L V6 which use spin on filters and are fussy on oil flow characteristics and shotty ADBV.

This engine uses a cartridge filter and it should, I can't remember, but should have a check valve that prevents the oil from flowing back down and leaving the canister the cartridge goes in.

If not you can install one but I don't think this is your problem.

Steve

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
I had a 3.5L in my 2004 amanti, original engine had a knock right off the lot only when cold out, not 70f but 30-40f. It also was consuming oil right from the start. It was replaced with a short block, they reported it as 1 bad piston. The 2nd replacement was a complete crate. The short block replacement started knocking, running rough and had noticeable blue smoke when it got back to the dealer some 15k miles later.

The 2004 3.5L had belt driven cams, I would have to check but I believe they are chain drive now. Not sure about other changes. Hyundai/kia changed the viscosity requirements 2 years after my 2nd engine went boom from 30wts to 40 and 50wts. This graph used to be totally different a couple years ago, 10w30 is still acceptable.

Never saw those problems with the 3.5's in Kia or Hyundai that I have serviced. Interesting and maybe just a bad batch of engines?

That picture of the oil weights is in my Hyundai manual for the 4 cylinder, 2.7L V6 and the 3.5L that I have for my 2006 Santa Fe.

 

[Cup of Joe]

Originally Posted By: StevieC

Never saw those problems with the 3.5's in Kia or Hyundai that I have serviced. Interesting and maybe just a bad batch of engines?

That picture of the oil weights is in my Hyundai manual for the 4 cylinder, 2.7L V6 and the 3.5L that I have for my 2006 Santa Fe.


Well checking the 2005 owners manual it specs 5w-20, 5w30, or 10w30 that is prior to the above viscosity chart which came a couple years later. Notice 5w-20 and 5w30 are basicly not reccomend for normal use.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles

Does this diagram look strange to anyone? 10w30 is good up to 104F but 5w-40 is only good up to 68F?

 

[Cup of Joe]

What they are telling you is that anything 5w is not to be trusted. Only use 10w, 15w or 20w since that is the best possible protection.

 

[StevieC]

Honestly all the 3.5's I have seen are running 5w20 or 5w30 and they aren't knocking...

 

[FowVay]

Here's the quote directly from the factory service manual in regard to oil viscosity and quality standard:

Selection Of Engine Oil
Recommendation : 5W-20/GF4&SM (If not available, refer to the recommended API or ILSAC classification and SAE viscosity number.)
API classification : SL, SM or above
ILSAC classification : GF3, GF4 or above
SAE viscosity grade : Refer to the recommended SAE viscosity number.


The diagram in the manual shows a chart recommending 5W-20 as primary grade and 5w30 as a secondary recommendation if 5W-20 is not available. It also permits 10w30 for temperatures above 0ºF.

 

[tomcat27]

without hearing it, sounds like piston slap. of course, you know more than I do... I hope everything goes smoothly