New 2005 Kia van! Need advice please!

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KiaSedona05

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The manual states a transmission fluid change at 30,000.

So, with that in mind, how soon should I change the transmission fluid on a new vehicle considering it's a Kia automatic? It is a 5-speed which keeps the RPM's down on highways but it's a heavy vehicle.

The ATF specs say to use:

Diamond ATF SP-III
Capacity: 9.0 US quarts

Should I stick with the Kia brand ATF or is there something better out there? Again, how soon and how often to change also.

Thanks again guys!

p.s. Could someone please explain what an ATF "flush" is and how to do it properly? Is this something I can do or is it better to have it done like every third transmission change or something?
 
The manual doesn't care that you'd want to keep the car forever.

A flush is when they hook up a fluid displacement machine to your ATF cooler lines. For every dirty quart coming from your transmission, a clean quart goes in. The new/old fluid is separated by a baffle and the old fluid coming out pushes the new fluid in. The machine holds about 3 gallons of ATF.
~90% of the ATF is changed with a flush since the old/new ATF is mixing in the pan and torque converter. I recommend this every 15k miles or 2 years if you don't drive much.

A drain/refill(better choice) is when you pull the drainplug. Usually half of the fluid will come out(4-5 quarts) since the torque convertor will not gravity drain.
I'd recommend a drain/refill every 6 months or at every oil change.

I'd stick with the Kia ATF until the warranty expires. I know that the dealers here like looking at maintenance records/receipts and are quick to approve warranty work if all is in order.

You should have no problem doing a drainplug drain/refill. Pull the drainplug, allow to drain, reinstall plug, and refill transmission through dipstick.

To do a flush at home, you'll need to disconnect the ATF cooler hose and aim into a bucket. Allow a gallon to pump out with vehicle running. Shut it off, top it off, and repeat until 3 gallons are collected in your bucket.

Here is a filter kit that any mechanic, dealer, or transmission shop can install(or yourself if you have tools).
http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page25.html

Same goes for a typical extra ATF cooler:
http://bmracing.com/index.php?id=products&sid=4&cat=20&subcat=28&pid=73
 
Good advice, thanks man.

I would like a cooler but do not wish to install it to be quite honest. I could have my (old) machanic do it I suppose and I might give them a call to see how much they would charge. I also hope it would not void any warranties!

I will drain and refill the ATF every oil change for sure. (7,500) It's well worth it and easy enough to do I hope! I haven't even seen the drainplug for the Kia yet but heard there is a crossbar right under it. That figures.

I can't imagine doing a flush either. I'll have this done every so often and will shop around for the best price. Kia would probably charge me an arm and a leg. I really want to take care of this van though. I just don't have the tools, nor the patience to tackle some jobs. I can change oil and ATF drain and refill but that's about it. I know, call me "Alice" but hey, I work for a living so other people can do some of my dirty work!
smile.gif
 
If there is a cross bar in the way you might want to consider just buying a siphon pump and pump the old oil out the transmission dipstick tube ( pump will cost 10-20$$ at an auto parts store )
as for the cooler ...you really , really should consider having one installed ...they cost $40-120 and install should only take a mechanic about an hour ....ask about having the dealership install one ....most transmissions die from heat related issues.
 
Funny, I called Kia the other day when they told me "we do not install or have oil coolers". You would think the tech would know this vehicle already had one? Hmmmm.. Like you said though, it's probably useless.

Anyhoo, those oil extractors look awesome! Why didn't I think of that earlier? Thanks, I may look into one of those, especially for my ATF on both vehicles.
 
The mighty vac extractor is way better than the two listed above. I have had them all and the mighty vac is the boss.

Seriously, did you expect bonehead dealership mechanics to actually know anything about the vehicles they work on? The vast majority of mechanics I know would be lucky to pass a GED test and I wonder if KIA techs are the worst of the worst.
 
Yea, I need an extractor! I changed my ATF on my Honda this evening and man, did that make a mess. The drain is near the left front wheel which makes it difficult to place the pan centered under it so when the fluid starts spewing out it of course gets all over the wheel, my car ramp, some in the actual pan, then the rest on the garage floor. Yippie. There HAS to be an easier way for the home machanic who does not have a lift! Like I said, I need an extractor. The question I have though is when you extract the fluid how can it get it out deep within the pan? I mean, all the fluid is down at the bottom of the pan so how does the hose reach through all the parts to get to the bottom? I would imagine you can extract what the hose can reach but doesn't this leave crud at the bottom of the pan? Hmmmm....

BTW, when I removed the drain plug and inspected it the magnet at the end of the plug has lots of metal shavings on it. At least enough to notice. It's been a while since I changed ATF and I could really tell! Shame... shame...
smile.gif
 
How does your oil or ATF disptick reach down into the pan?

On some vehicles, the oil extractor tube/hose will actually draw out MORE oil/ATF then pulling the drainplug which usually isn't in the best position for full draining.

vicmackey, which mityvac do you use?
 
No, I understand but I've never actually seen an extractor and I wasn't sure how thick the tube was and how far it would reach into the pan. If you think it will get out just as much, or more ATF than a typical drain then I'm all for it!

So I never need to remove my drain plug then? Or, just to clean off the metal shavings stuck on the magnet once in a while?
 
Yea, that's what I used but it's not helping. My transmission is bummed, no fluid will help it. It's a shame Honda makes such a shoddy transmission.

I guess I could have Honda check it out one more time to see if CV joints are bad or something else might be wrong. I just hate to pay for something they will likely come back and say nothing is wrong. Anyone who drives my car can tell right away something isn't right and I couldn't even sell it in this condition because someone would think the transmission is shot.

Well, live and learn. I'll never own another Honda product.. no way. I've talked to too many people with the same experience with their transmissions. It's not just my car.

I think it all started when Honda allowed an American company to start building their transmissions. I think? they are made in the US actually but I forget the company name. It's not all made in Japan anymore. It USE to be a great product.

Here ya go! I did a quick search. This is only one example but I think all the transmissions are made in the US now.

http://autonet.ca/autonetstories/Stories.cfm?StoryID=11658
 
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After doing the second drain/refill, drive for about 5000 miles, then take a sample of the fluid for fluid analysis before for doing another, third drain/refill.

Hire Terry Dyson to interpret the ATF analysis report.

Michael
 
Yep, never remove the drainplugs again.
OK I lied, once in 100k miles for magnet inspection/cleaning is good enough.
And, you should test the "extractor" the 1st time by pulling the drainplug and seeing how much fluid can be siphoned out.
 
KiaSedona05,

Your 02 Civic EX is a vehicle with 115,000 miles and still should be better than some new cars today.

You do not want to pay a quailified person to look at it so you deem it to be 'shoddy'??

All American made Honda's are suspect you say?

The URL you reference is a well known story and well discussed on the board; a poor design that has been fixed, also related to an extremely more complex V6 application, not your Civic.

Its good that the 'shoddy' transmission got you to your extreme milage in such a short time.

Have you owned the Civic since mile 0? Where/how did the miles come about?

Myself and others have made a few newer sugguestions for you outside of the simple drain and fill.

It is NOT your CV joints btw.

If you wish to sell your 02 Civic EX as a car with a 'shot' transmission, I'll pay that going price anyday for it, just send a PM.
 
KS,
That Maxlife ATF I suggested for your Honda will also work for your Kia.

Just a FYI,
Michael
 
HM,

Didn't mean to offend pal, just tired of the stories Honda techs tell me. BTW, I've had it checked, twice by so-called "qualified" Honda mechanics and they come back with the same answer that they can't find anything wrong. They make up some lousy excuse about "torque" and how the transmission works. They use a lot of "technical" terms which only confuses people because we have no idea what they are saying. I think this is a cop-out and an easy way to avoid saying.. "Hmmm, we don't know why these transmissions are built like junk".. LOL

I purchased my 02 brand new, yes. After about 25k the transmission started to have symptoms, especially the example I described above. After more miles were added it continues to get worse.

Now that it can be detected more by having a tech ride with me I will have it checked out once again. This will make it the third time to a Honda dealer. Possibly they may find something actually wrong this time? Again, I won't hold my breath too long.

So, to sum it up my transmission has acted up shortly after ownership and it's only become worse by no fault of my own. I've babied this car and have kept up with regular maintenance, more than the average car owner I guarantee it.

HM, I'd gladly sell you my lemon but now that it's paid off I want to run it until it's towed to the gave. This is the only way to recoop some of the expense this car has cost me over it's short life span.

Again, I am NOT the only one who experiences this issue! I belong to a "Civic" forum as well and there are plenty of folks in the same boat my friend who have also had their cars checked by "qualified" Honda mechanics.

The link I posted was just an example referring to the US made transmissions, not the model vehicle itself.

Again, no offense to the people who love Honda. I'm glad you all had perfect luck with your cars but unfortunately I have not. Can you say.. "Lemon"??? LOL

Chow!
 
Honda man seems to be on a steady dose of the honda kool aid.

You consider 115K extreme mileage? HAHAHAHHHAHAHAHA

You have really low standards for durability hondaman.
 
quote:
Originally posted by vicmackey:
Honda man seems to be on a steady dose of the honda kool aid.

You consider 115K extreme mileage? HAHAHAHHHAHAHAHA

You have really low standards for durability hondaman.
Click to expand...
I love the kool aid in Tropical Punch flavor!!

By extreme I meant he topped 115K in three years or less. As I mentioned, with 115k his Civic should still outlast many new model 05 cars today.

I'm about to 2x his milage with my 90 Accord, I expect 3x without a problem.

( no worries to/from anyone, the kool aid has me really buzzin'
smile.gif
)
 
lots of people put on 50k to 80k miles per year on.
btu, it's not the kool aid Yellow dye 3, it's the fermented distilled sugar water that causes the "BUZZ".

New Kia van:add the largest after market plate and fin type transmission cooler that will fit in front of the a/c condenser radiator.
Transmission coolers

Use the Kia brand ATF until off warranty then use a top synthetic brand, Mobil 1, Valvoline, Amsoil, Redline. change every 50k miles with the syn.
 
FYI,

The hand held MityVac can be bought at Sears for about $13 (I think it is $19 mail order through the company.)

I have one and it works fine. But, mine seems to take a lot of strokes to pump two quarts out of our Escorts. My arms/wrists haven't had that kind of workout since I was a teenager!
 
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