New 18’ YZF-R1 and Yamalube 15w-50

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Op, I have not placed my cheeks on a seat in some 12 years, retired racer. You have a race bike with license plates minus some prep work. Track proven, and still the best oil in shared sump motors as yours is Motul 300V, preferably 15/50, most racers and serious weekend riders paying their own way use this oil and its not cheap! It stands out for its clutch and shifting since your motor oil is shared with your transmission and clutch. Done deal. Work on something else, like tuning your suspension to your riding style and weight, you will need professional guidance, but it will make day and night difference. Try different tires too, and air pressures.
 
I didn't catch that he was using this as a track bike? Proper suspension setup goes without saying on the street as well.

I don't think 300v is any better on the street than a variety of other oils. Look at used oil analysis and read about shift quality. Many oils bring that without living in the rarefied air of $17 a quart.
 
I didn't say he was riding the bike on a track and neither did he, most that buy these types of bikes don't, but most also don't really realize the bikes potential. I think you know as well as I do how close it is from a competitive super stock race bike, not much work, you pretty much destroy the resale value, but off the show room floor with a professional rider it will do 0mph to 100 to 0mph before any super car can do 0mph to 100mph.

And, I'm sorry to disagree with you, but I used to be able to feel the difference between other oils and Motul 300v, but I thrashed the day lights out of my bikes, hence the reason I stopped racing in 2008. UOA won't tell you about shift quality, neither will reading, seat time will, and maybe how many transmissions you have destroyed!

$400.00 for a set of tires that last one day on the track, $50.00/$70.00 for fuel, the cost of motor oil is not a big concern. When I used to buy it, it was jut under $40.00 a gallon. Real sport bikes are not cheap by any means. Crash= minimum 2/3k to the bike, your body? My last crash was 40k. Insurance!

Originally Posted by Bonz
I didn't catch that he was using this as a track bike? Proper suspension setup goes without saying on the street as well.

I don't think 300v is any better on the street than a variety of other oils. Look at used oil analysis and read about shift quality. Many oils bring that without living in the rarefied air of $17 a quart.
 
Originally Posted by KneeGrinder
I didn't say he was riding the bike on a track and neither did he, most that buy these types of bikes don't, but most also don't really realize the bikes potential. I think you know as well as I do how close it is from a competitive super stock race bike, not much work, you pretty much destroy the resale value, but off the show room floor with a professional rider it will do 0mph to 100 to 0mph before any super car can do 0mph to 100mph.

And, I'm sorry to disagree with you, but I used to be able to feel the difference between other oils and Motul 300v, but I thrashed the day lights out of my bikes, hence the reason I stopped racing in 2008. UOA won't tell you about shift quality, neither will reading, seat time will, and maybe how many transmissions you have destroyed!

$400.00 for a set of tires that last one day on the track, $50.00/$70.00 for fuel, the cost of motor oil is not a big concern. When I used to buy it, it was jut under $40.00 a gallon. Real sport bikes are not cheap by any means. Crash= minimum 2/3k to the bike, your body? My last crash was 40k. Insurance!

Originally Posted by Bonz
I didn't catch that he was using this as a track bike? Proper suspension setup goes without saying on the street as well.

I don't think 300v is any better on the street than a variety of other oils. Look at used oil analysis and read about shift quality. Many oils bring that without living in the rarefied air of $17 a quart.





Sorry if I wasn't clear, I was saying we can read about the good shift quality that many oils bring that many guys talk about. In general I think folks are fairly knowledgeable about what good shifting is and what it isn't, so the information gathered can come from sources besides just riding the bike. In conjunction with that, UOA's won't be any better or worse than what 300V brings to the table. With that said, the most shear prone oil probably would return a good uoa other than feeling like dog poop at the shifter.
 
what many forget about viscosity is its measured with NEW oil + at 212 fahrenheit!! + oils get much hotter + they continue to THIN as heat rises, BUT real synthetic PAO + Ester oils thin less + in the cold they thicken a LOT less as i seen on machinery lubrication!
 
Good points, probably won't get cold enough where we ride motorcycles to matter on the cold end of things. ðŸ‘

A good synthetic means less viscosity index improvers to hold grade. They typically stay in grade which equates to less shearing which is typical of maintaining higher shift quality over the OCI.
 
doesnt have to be synthetic

basically what ive been posting here for the last 15+years now
the more VIIs the greater the chances of shift quality going to crud faster

my sae30, sae40 and sae50 tests proved this over n over.
 
Correct about not having to be synthetic when you're talking straight grade oils in terms of maintaining shift quality. Most guys don't use a straight weight, but your tests are right on the money.
 
well valvoline vr1 20w50 conventional also fits
heck even exxon superflo 20w50
or SRT 15w40 or SuperTech 15w40 or....
there are some
 
Yeah I agree, there are some good ones out there that probably don't get the play they should just because conventional oils don't get enough love anymore.

At 5,000 miles on the ZRX 1200, M1 10w40 4T and 20w50 V-Twin hadn't lost shift quality and analysis showed they had plenty of TBN left. I think I said in a post a while back in another thread I may run 6,000 miles this oci because the analysis says I should easily be able to and shift quality stays consistent based on experience.

All things said I could change oil more frequently with conventional oil so that shift quality wouldn't drop off and I would feel very comfortable. However an OCI of 5,000 to 6,000 miles fits with a riding season and it's nice to do it once a year. For that, synthetic gets it done.
 
I've been using Rotella 15w40 and 5w40 in my 06 R1 since i bought it with a little over 2k miles and no issues.

This year I'm going to run 15w40 t6 for the first time.

I don't ride it a lot now so i just change it every 2 years
 
Should be a fine oil in there! Since you don't ride much, be sure when you do ride, get it up to operating temperature and keep it there and the bike shouldn't have condensation issues in the crankcase.
 
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Choose whatever oil you fancy, they all meet standards.

To me, I think the most important thing for you is to stick to a 50 weight oil being your in the southern part of the country.
So any 20/50 or 15/50 would be a good choice as far as I am concerned. Heck you could go for the standard automotive 15/50 Mobile 1 or any motorcycle specific 20/50 or a diesel/gasoline 15/50 semi such as Mystic JT8.

One thing for sure, you if you choose Rotella your stuck with a 40, would be ok if you lived up north maybe but I assume you ride in really hot weather/mostly warm weather.


Standard automotive oils aren't recommended for motorcycles with shared oil sump between engine and transmission, because most contain Molybdenum, which can cause wet clutch slippage.
 
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Plenty of automotive oils with LESS molybdenum, than many 'dedicated' motorcycle oils.



Well, if that were the case, they'd be OK, then.

I see you're in Arkansas. I sure used to enjoy going over to Arkansas to ride, when I lived in Memphis.
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Choose whatever oil you fancy, they all meet standards.

To me, I think the most important thing for you is to stick to a 50 weight oil being your in the southern part of the country.
So any 20/50 or 15/50 would be a good choice as far as I am concerned. Heck you could go for the standard automotive 15/50 Mobile 1 or any motorcycle specific 20/50 or a diesel/gasoline 15/50 semi such as Mystic JT8.

One thing for sure, you if you choose Rotella your stuck with a 40, would be ok if you lived up north maybe but I assume you ride in really hot weather/mostly warm weather.


Standard automotive oils aren't recommended for motorcycles with shared oil sump between engine and transmission, because most contain Molybdenum, which can cause wet clutch slippage.


TOTALLY WRONG!!!
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer


Standard automotive oils aren't recommended for motorcycles with shared oil sump between engine and transmission, because most contain Molybdenum, which can cause wet clutch slippage.


Negative... mileage not moly is the observed cause of clutch slippage...

The holy trinity of science is 1)Reason 2)Observation 3)Experience...
employing those tools we observe that the primary cause clutch slip
are high mileage... mileage is the constant among all of the clutches
that begin to slip... oil choice whether JASO approved or not is not a
constant... High mileage is the constant where all clutches begin to
loose grip due to normal glazing and contaminates that build up over use...

Noted Motorcycle oils that also employ moly... mounting evidence that
Moly will not and has never been the culprit responsible for clutch slip...

Honda GN4
Suzuki Ecstar
Motul 7100
Asmoil MC
Mobil 4T
Redline

[Linked Image from vfrdiscussion.com]
 
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