just bought my wife an 99 honda accord sedan with 4 cyl for a everyday driver,it has 60000 miles on it and the lady i bought it from bought it new and has ran valvoline in it since new,should i continue to run valvoline?i had thought about mobile one or other syn. oil to run in it,would this be wise or should i stay with dino oil?she drives about 45 miles a day,also what oil filter do i need to use and what else should be done at this mileage and age? thanks rick
need help with oil
- Thread starter heavydutyguy
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Rick,
If it was me, go find a oil you like (Pennzoil, Castrol, Havoline, Chevron, etc) that has a good price and change it out every 5000 miles or 6 months which ever comes first.
Valovine is a ok oil but more $$ than others. I used to run it all the time but switched over to Pennzoil, Chevron and Castrol since they are on sale more.
Today, any SM oil is good.
Supertech, Purolators and wix are good filters.
60k miles get the timing belt checked! If it has not been done, I'd get it done pretty soon since it's been 60k miles and 7 years since new.
Manual or Auto? Flush either.
Coolent, change out.
I had a 1998 Accord and the person who bought it still has it and it just went over 200k. It's had some problems but still running well.
Take care, bill
If it was me, go find a oil you like (Pennzoil, Castrol, Havoline, Chevron, etc) that has a good price and change it out every 5000 miles or 6 months which ever comes first.
Valovine is a ok oil but more $$ than others. I used to run it all the time but switched over to Pennzoil, Chevron and Castrol since they are on sale more.
Today, any SM oil is good.
Supertech, Purolators and wix are good filters.
60k miles get the timing belt checked! If it has not been done, I'd get it done pretty soon since it's been 60k miles and 7 years since new.
Manual or Auto? Flush either.
Coolent, change out.
I had a 1998 Accord and the person who bought it still has it and it just went over 200k. It's had some problems but still running well.
Take care, bill
Almost anything but Valvoline-I lost two 5.3L GM engines running Durablend and I believe the oil had something to do with it.
Obviously the advantage of synthetics is a longer oil change interval, more protection, more power?, and less cost over a period of time. Add the fact that you know you are giving your car the best
However, if you can't keep yourself from changing your oil all the time a good dino would be in your best interest. I'd recommend Chevron (low price for a good oil).
Also, some cars have problems going from dino to synthetic at a higher mileage. I'd personally recommend at most 30,000 to go to synthetic from dino. Opinions on both sides...
However, if you can't keep yourself from changing your oil all the time a good dino would be in your best interest. I'd recommend Chevron (low price for a good oil).
Also, some cars have problems going from dino to synthetic at a higher mileage. I'd personally recommend at most 30,000 to go to synthetic from dino. Opinions on both sides...
Yes, Id like to know to. The only fluid NOT valvoline in my GM sonoma is the brake fluid (its still OEM). The truck is running great.
People say valvoline is more expensive than the other brands? In my neck of the woods valvoline is more expensive, but only by a few pennies. Every product I use is valvoline/ashland this includes fluids, cosmetics and even my air freshner. For the extra 75 cents I spent to use all valvoline I think it was worth it. But thats just me.
People say valvoline is more expensive than the other brands? In my neck of the woods valvoline is more expensive, but only by a few pennies. Every product I use is valvoline/ashland this includes fluids, cosmetics and even my air freshner. For the extra 75 cents I spent to use all valvoline I think it was worth it. But thats just me.
If you want your car to have the best, CHANGE ITS OIL when the MFG wants you too!
You are correct on longer oil change interval.
More protection? Prove it please.
Less cost? Nope.
You put a question mark on more power so we will let that one go.
As far as "giving your car the best"..
ANY oil will do as long as you change it out. I hate to keep pointing this out time and time again for the new members who may be reading this for the first time...
You do not HAVE to run Syn to "protect" your motor.
Your engine will NOT last longer if you run Syn.
If you follow your Manual to the letter and change it out using a good Conventional oil your engine is going to be safe, run well, be clean and last as long as you want it to.
If you have a car that calls for Syn, then the follow your manual to the letter covers that.
Alot of people like to spend the extra $$ and run Syn and thats great.
But in the end, A person who changes out their oil recommended by the manual who uses Conventional oil will have the same engine as someone who spent the extra $$ for Syn..
I've done both. I've gone the mileage. More than once.
Sorry for the rant... (it's that time again)
Take care, bill
PS: Valvoline is not bad oil and has protected engines for millions and millions of miles. I would not run it but its a cost issue.
Yeah, but Bill, hasn't it been proved time and time again by BITOG follow-the-lemmings posters that real synthetic motor oils protect better, deliver better gas mileage, deliver more power, and result in far longer engine life, and do all of the above at greater savings when the livin' snot is run out of 'em with grossly extended oil changes than common, out-of-the-dirt, high paraffin wax content dino oils that are known to cause sludge?
Ray,
I've never had or seen sludge on any of the cars/trucks that I own/help work on.
And they are worked, driven and keep going down the road with many many miles on them...
I just don't know how we do it without spending $5+ a quart for oil?
Take care, Bill
I've never had or seen sludge on any of the cars/trucks that I own/help work on.
And they are worked, driven and keep going down the road with many many miles on them...
I just don't know how we do it without spending $5+ a quart for oil?
Take care, Bill
We have a '99 Accord 4 cyl. now with 125K on it, my wife drives it about 200 miles a day for 4 days a week. I change the oil and filter every 5K. Until two changes ago I'd always used Valvoline, I now run Havoline. The reason I changed was the fact that Havoline was cheaper than Valvoline and I got a couple of cases at a good price. The oil usage is barely discernable with either. I don't know if it runs any better, I don't know if it sounds any different, I'm not that anal about my cars. I just know that from experience a decent oil (dino) with a decent filter (PureOne) will do fine on 5K OCIs in the Accord, which is roughly in the middle of Hondas recommendations for normal to severe conditions.
As for the timing belt, I changed mine at 100K (along with the water pump). I flushed the transmission at the same mileage and change the plugs every 30K along wiht air filter every 10K.
As for the timing belt, I changed mine at 100K (along with the water pump). I flushed the transmission at the same mileage and change the plugs every 30K along wiht air filter every 10K.
Conventional oil in my car would look like tar after the manufacturer recommended 10K intervals. An 8300 rpm redline and 4000 rpms on the freeway aren't exactly easy on an oil. I'm not going to turn this into a fight, but manufacturers often have motives outside of giving your car the longest possible life when they write an owners manual.
Bill, I think just about every semi-truck fleet operator would disagree with your comment on Synthetic not protecting better. Syns are usually better in just about every measurable aspect. How can you say it wouldn't protect better? It is true you don't have to run syn to protect your engine, but if you are refering to the results of UOA's that have been done, it takes more than a UOA to tell you what is going on inside of an engine.
Ever notice that the first time someone uses synthetic after using conventional for the longest time, that the metal in the oil looks real high sometimes. Is this because the syn is protecting worse or could it be the syn freeing lots of trapped particles in select areas in the engine? Someone interpreting a UOA wouldn't know this unless you gave them some background. You can learn quite a bit from a UOA, but they don't tell you everything.
Bill, I think just about every semi-truck fleet operator would disagree with your comment on Synthetic not protecting better. Syns are usually better in just about every measurable aspect. How can you say it wouldn't protect better? It is true you don't have to run syn to protect your engine, but if you are refering to the results of UOA's that have been done, it takes more than a UOA to tell you what is going on inside of an engine.
Ever notice that the first time someone uses synthetic after using conventional for the longest time, that the metal in the oil looks real high sometimes. Is this because the syn is protecting worse or could it be the syn freeing lots of trapped particles in select areas in the engine? Someone interpreting a UOA wouldn't know this unless you gave them some background. You can learn quite a bit from a UOA, but they don't tell you everything.
I ran a conventional in my GM 4.8 for close to 9k and it was far from tar.
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