Need help with Amsoil Bypass Filters

[The Critic]

Trying to decide- Amsoil BMK 11, BMK 12, or BMK 13. For a 96 Saturn SL2 or Toyota Corolla.

Questions:
If I get the BMK 13, do I still change the Bypass every other time I change the full-flow?

Whats the advantage of having the full-flow and bypass mounted side by side on the BMK13, besides easier to change the filter. Does the full-flow filter better that way? If so, is there a different replacement interval?

Why is the BMK 12 cheaper than the BMK 11?

Also, is the BMK 11 sufficient or do I need a BMK 13?

Finally, how can I "bulid my own" kit? By the mount, hoses, fitting, etc... please help.

Thanks

Michael

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by Michael Wan:
Questions:
If I get the BMK 13, do I still change the Bypass every other time I change the full-flow?

Whats the advantage of having the full-flow and bypass mounted side by side on the BMK13, besides easier to change the filter. Does the full-flow filter better that way? If so, is there a different replacement interval?
Michael

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First off the elements are the same with all the filters. So yes you should change the by-pass every other FF change, or longer depending if it's still filtering. The every other time is a good rule of thumb. If the filter is still getting hot (or flowing oil) then it's still working with no need to change.

The main reason for changing the FF filter is to top off additives and keep your viscosity in check.

couple reasons why the dual remote witht he FF and by-pass are nice (but not necessary) is you can mount in a convenient location. You can use a larger Full Flow filter than is speced on the car. It can be easier to change the filters and if you mount them vertically you have very little mess.

If you use larger Full Flow filters you can go longer without changing, but you still have to keep your additives fresh, hence the reason for a change. I would still stick to 6 month change intervals or so (I'm at about 8 months on mine and need to get on the stick)

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by Michael Wan:

Why is the BMK 12 cheaper than the BMK 11?

Also, is the BMK 11 sufficient or do I need a BMK 13?

Finally, how can I "bulid my own" kit? By the mount, hoses, fitting, etc... please help.

Thanks

Michael

---

The BMK 12 only contains the mount, with the mounting hardware(bracket) no hoses or fittings to hooking it up to your vehicles and no filters.

The BMK11(single filter) has all the necessary hardware to mount and hook the system up to most applications. This includes 8ft of hose, fittings for the filter, oil sending unit adapter, and a self tapping bolt for the oil pan. Hence the reason for a higher cost.
You still have to buy the filter separately.

I am currently using the BMK11 on my Jetta TDI, as I have no choice since it has a cartrige type filter. It works great and was easy to mount. The BMK11 takes up much less room than the 13 as well.

The nice feature about the 13 is that you can take it off in a matter of minutes and the car will be totally stock, since it uses an adapter that hook up to you current FF location.

If you want to the "el cheapo" build your own kit, you can buy the BP80A mount for $14 and find the hoses and fittings yourself. For less than $75 you can have a complete setup including the filter (though I would only use the BE90 with this mount) as it's a cast aluminum mount and not nearly as tough as the machined one,

 

[msparks]

Here is a picture of the BP 80A setup.

If you order just the mount ($14) you get no hoses, or oil sending unit adapters or fittings. The filter is also sold separately ($26)

Here is thread on the install of the BP-80A on the transmission
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=36;t=000178

 

[slalom44]

IMO, one of the advantages of going with teh BMK-13 unit is that you don't have to tap into the drain plug, oilpan, or anywhere else besides replacing the stock oil filter with an adapter. It also delivers all of the oil pumped by the oil pump. None of the other bypass systems do that.

The downside: Lower max oil pressure. The engine's pressure relief valve along with the added resistance from Amsoil's bypass spring lower the max pressure delivered to your engine (unless you beef up your engine's pressure relief spring). Personally I don't think this is a concern.

 

[Steve S]

Why have a bypass filter? If you run Amsoil and good filters with 10,000 to 12,000 mile intervals ,you will get rid of the car before the engine wears out.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

Well, people like me put around 50,000 miles per year on a vehicle so they want them to last a looooong time....at least I want my truck to last me a long time. That's why I run a bypass set up

 

[greencrew]

quote:

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Originally posted by Steve S:
Why have a bypass filter? If you run Amsoil and good filters with 10,000 to 12,000 mile intervals ,you will get rid of the car before the engine wears out.

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Steve, changing the two BMK-13 filters is simply simple. With less effort I get more protection. I change one filter in spring, and two filters in the fall. If I want to run a different oil I'm free to pull the drain plug and drop everything in the oil pan and refill.

This setup is so easy to use it should be an option on every vehicle sold.

 

[Andy H]

quote:

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Originally posted by Michael Wan:
Trying to decide- Amsoil BMK 11, BMK 12, or BMK 13. For a 96 Saturn SL2 or Toyota Corolla.

Questions:
Why is the BMK 12 cheaper than the BMK 11?

Also, is the BMK 11 sufficient or do I need a BMK 13?

---

Michael,
In addition to what you've already read here:

The BMK-11 is the parasitic bypass unit. This is installed by tapping high-pressure oil, filtering it, and returning it to either the oil pan, valve cover, or oil fill cap. This is slightly more challenging to plumb than the BMK-13, but is much easier to find room for.

The BMK-12 is the Dual-Guard mounting kit. This unit holds two bypass filter elements and is used for semis and other large engines. It doesn't include hoses, fittings, or filters, as these installs are almost always custom. This isn't something you'd want on either the Saturn or Toyota.

The BMK-13 is the 'universal' Dual Remote setup. This includes all hardware, but no filters. This takes all the oil flow from the engine's oil filter mount via a spin-on adaptor, runs it thru both a bypass and full flow filter, and return's the clean oil to the engine via the engine's spin-on filter mount. This is the easiest unit to install if you have the space for the filter mount and filters.

I've run two years with both an Oilguard element and a BE-90 (not at the same time...) in my 1.9L diesel car. You should be able to easily run 2 year bypass element change intervals. The main limitation to full-flow filter life isn't necessarily contamination, it's the design life of the sealing o-ring and the glues that hold the cellulose filter media together. Filters for European cars are routinely built for 10,000+ miles or 1 year intervals, but few American cars spec that length of filter service, so few filters for American cars are built to last that long.

I'd use oil analysis along with the 'hand on the bypass element' professional

test method to set the bypass element life span.

Andy