Need help: High lead; Redline 20W-50 BMW M3

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wow! what a huge drop in lead! maybe the first redline was scavenging and cleaning in the first run thus the high lead. but the 10w-40 was a good move, you don't want to chance another lead episode like that.
 
ok, I got my read from Terry on this last sample.

Let me just say upfront that the use of Terry/Dyson Analysis in this issue has been invaluable. His initial response (I got my high Pb sample back 3 days before a track event) was above and beyond, working well into the late evening on it, corresponding by email, and on the phone. You don't get better service than that from your best friend! He admitted this was a hard read based on this and the previous reports-we initially concluded a definite bearing problem. Yet he didn't stop there-he kept thinking and digging in his vast resources, came back THE NEXT DAY with some other benchmark data, and modified his advice. With that advice I stayed with RL, changed the weight from 20W-50 to a 10W-40, and did my track day, plus a few more.

Dyson saved me over $1,000 that I would have otherwise spent to pull/inspect/replace the bearings based on this UOA without his read. He has got me dialed in to an oil that is PERFECT for my application, and saved me a ton of sleepless nites, all the while allowing me to enjoy my car for it's stated purpose: weekend track time!

So the bottom line (my interpretation, I'll let Terry state his own) is that the use of Valvoline Durablend 15W-40 was the WRONG oil for my application and with it saw poor oil performance and higher levels of wear. The initial application of RL demonstrated the RL chemistry in cleaning off those exposed/worn/oxidized surfaces, and potentially that RL 20W-50 is simply too thick for this motor. The 10W-40 proves the unique abilities of RL for protection of high stress surfaces on motorsport application, and that it is the proper weight oil. It shows good metals wear given the usage, that the oil survives nicely the severe usage, produces lower oil temps, solid oil pressures right away on cold starts, and presumably better fuel mileage and few more HP to boot.

I will continue to monitor the motor through UOA, may extend the drain interval over time, depending on usage, and will continue to seek Terry's advice on keeping my motor healthy.
 
Awesome!
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Red Line, Terry and BMW RULE! Sweet car!
 
What about other BMW e30's from this era? what oil would be recommended for the m20 motor in summer driving conditions?

my e30 has been run on M1 15w50 in the summer, and 10w30 in the winter. the previous owner did alot of highway driving wiht the car, and it held up very well IMO

Now the car doesn't see winter, and is only driven during about 2-4 months per year. When I do drive, i only drive it for leisure/infrequent spirited driving sessions. I also run M1 15w50 with Purlator oil filters.

So far I've been indicated that this oil is too thick for my application. Should I downgrade to 10w30 M1, or should I consider another oil? I really don't want to go with another oil since I really like the cleaning properties that the M1 has in keeping my m20 clean.

thanks in advance
 
quote:

Originally posted by Stanley Rockafeller:
So far I've been indicated that this oil is too thick for my application. Should I downgrade to 10w30 M1, or should I consider another oil? I really don't want to go with another oil since I really like the cleaning properties that the M1 has in keeping my m20 clean.

I'd consider M1 10W40 EP or Truck & SUV 5W-40 or Delvac-1 or M1 0W40 or Esso XD-3 0W40 and even Esso XD-3 0W30 before trying M1 10W30. The latter two are dirt cheap for you at an Esso bulk dealer.

Concentrate more on a good HTHS rating, not necessarily SAE viscosity. Unless you want to be the 20-weight guinea pig for the engine, I'd stay away from the xW30 M1 products.

[ April 02, 2005, 06:19 PM: Message edited by: pitzel ]
 
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