Need help finding correct outdoor hose bibb/sillcock

Joined
Aug 20, 2003
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Location
NE,Ohio
Current one was dripping its the 10" long no freeze kind.
I cut it off the pex in the basement. Then figured out how it unscrewed because the end adapter didnt fit through wall hole

Pulled it out the wall.. would like nearly lifetime replacement.

Need a 12" stem or 10"(min) to get into basement through 2 joists and a wall. prefer a 1/4 turn ball valve style.. vs gate valve or whatever the normal full turn uses.

It will be connected to 1/2" pex and I have the tools for that.

Freeze proof type would be a bonus(I think)

Typically hooked up to hose reel for 6-7 months out of year

Suggestions? Dont mind paying for high quality.

Edit: current one looks like el-cheapo builder grade version of this in brass.
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Get one with a recognizable name embossed on the side. I would purchase two and put one away to use for parts. Most of the washers are generic and can be replaced but there is one I have not seen in generic kits.
 
I just replaced one of mine. Take the one you took out to Lowes or HD with you so you can compare. I didn't know there were so many brands/types to choose from.
 
I just went through the process of rebuilding one using Home Depot parts. The shaft inside has a course thread to hold it in place. Wouldn’t you know it, they changed the design from three approximately 3 threads per inch two four threads per inch and I couldn’t just buy another unit and switch the shafts with all the seals intact.

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Our plumber just replaced the cheap one that burst with another of the same type/model and said next time to disconnect the hose in the winter months. We're going on almost 3 months now since our basement flooded, just got painted yesterday....another 3-4 weeks for new carpet to come in. /sigh
 
These are only freeze-proof when the hose is disconnected to allow the water to drain out of the faucet tube. If you forget to do that, the outer tube will freeze and burst, but it generally won't leak until you try to use the faucet again.

As @PimTac said, you can also use a regular faucet with a shutoff valve inside. In the winter time close the inside valve, remove the hose, and drain the line in the wall through the outside faucet. Here if you leave the inside valve on and let it freeze, there will be a leak as soon as it thaws.
 
These are only freeze-proof when the hose is disconnected to allow the water to drain out of the faucet tube. As @PimTac said, you can also use a regular faucet with a shutoff valve inside. In the winter time close the inside valve, remove the hose, and drain the line in the wall through the outside faucet.
Great idea with shut-off valve on the inside if the pipe is accessible from the inside.
Just have to make sure it is closed before the first freeze.
So OP does not need special silcock.
The high quality US made is not cheap.

The brand used in my house is Arrowhead.
It has a replaceable stem, the stem itself cost $25 from plumbing supply store.
 
Shark Bite makes a bib that converts to Pex pipe.
all metal bibs are 3x more expensive than a few years ago so if you already have pex pipe, I'd go SB brand,
Higher max. pressure ratings too.
 
Great idea with shut-off valve on the inside if the pipe is accessible from the inside.
Just have to make sure it is closed before the first freeze.
So OP does not need special silcock.
The high quality US made is not cheap.

The brand used in my house is Arrowhead.
It has a replaceable stem, the stem itself cost $25 from plumbing supply store.


I have seen those Arrowhead bibbs and they look decent. A lot of brass bibbs tend to cheap out on the threads where you connect the hose. Arrowhead and some other brands give you a nice threaded portion. The cheap ones have just a few threads and they always leak no matter how tight the hose is threaded on.
 
I do have a shutoff inside the basement. its the 1/4 turn ball valve have about 10 of them.. makes it super nice :)
I did stumble upon the sharkbite version. seems super easy and 22$ on amazon for the 10"
Might give one a try.

10" is me fighting the fiberglass insulation.. Was looking for 12.. but inserting a pex pipe into a sharkbite is alot easier than threading and crimping.
the 12" sharkbite is nearly double the price of the 10"

I do disconnect the hose around october.
 
The inside end of a freezeproof still contains water, so it has to be well inside the area that stays above freezing-- not partway out in the wall.
 
Shut off valves are possible if you don’t have a dry walled ceiling in the basement or if you have an inspection door in a dry walled ceiling. If it’s a dry walled ceiling with no inspection door, you go with the freeze proof valve and take the garden hose off. The garden hose issue is caused by running a hose nozzle that is shut off, back water up behind, inside the hose and the freeze proof valve.
 
I installed a Prier/Mansfield couple years ago. I got it at Home Depot. I had a drip when shut off and called them. They sent me new seals and it been dry since. I have no shutoff. I disconnect hose first frost or sooner. Home Depot has repair kit if you need one years later. Big knob, easy to turn.
 
I installed the 22$ sharkbite today.. took 3 min.. longest part was finding plyers to remove the pex support as I had to move it 1/2"
No leaks so far.. not exactly what I was looking for but with that ease of install and $$ I'll take it.. certainly no worse than what was in there previously.

Sharkbite on cold water pex doesnt bother me. I should put a little piece of strapping on it to make it slope slightly downwards towards the faucet but not worried about it right now.
Should also caulk or sprayfoam around that electrical that is going out to the yard pole too.
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Here is an outside picture to help with that mental picture.
yep that is a craftsman all rubber black hose.
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On that shutoff valve location, is that stiff and secure to avoid flexing when you use the valve?

If not you might need some wood reinforcement there.
 
On that shutoff valve location, is that stiff and secure to avoid flexing when you use the valve?

If not you might need some wood reinforcement there.
it turns easy enough but I grasp the base of the valve when turning.
All the water lines were done by hilljack and son. I recrimped everything everywhere I could reach/find em.
 
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