Need Advice: Fumoto Valve Install

[jdgin]

I've installed a Fumoto valve on my new 05 LLBean (H6 engine) using a Subaru crush washer. I tightened per the instructions that came with the valve (spin on by hand until the valve seats, tighten 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn). It leaked. Duh, I say to myself. With the crush washer instead of the blue gasket washer, it obviously needed to be tighter. So I tightened it up a bit more, still feeling a bit cautious because the Fumoto instructions warn sternly that overtightening can damage the valve.

I think I'm close now. Found one drop of oil seeping out and gave the valve just a bit more of a turn. Feels like the crush washer is fully crushed down now.

What say all of you? Am I okay now? Should I dump the crush washer and use the blue gasket washer? Other thoughts/suggestions on the best way to install this valve?

I really don't want to go back to the regular drain plug. This valve makes way too much sense.

 

[newtoncd8]

Agreed that the valve is very nice. I can't talk to you about leaks because I used the blue gasket on both of our cars--no leaks on either. If it were me, I would (personally) take it off and use the gasket Fumoto sent with the valve.

 

[jdgin]

Curtis, thanks. Your experience sure suggests that is the way to go.

 

[Bio-T]

I have a Fumoto on both diesel trucks and a Honda 10HP power washer. I used the blue gasket, but i put some gasket sealer on both sides of the blue gasket and installed. I wanted to make sure, and no leaks on any of them.

 

[tweeker43]

i have the blue gasket on my fumoto (subaru 2.5rs) and the only oil under my car is due to my bad aim.

 

[Seth_TJ]

quote:

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Originally posted by tweeker43:
i have the blue gasket on my fumoto (subaru 2.5rs) and the only oil under my car is due to my bad aim.

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I have the Fumoto on my Jeep Wrangler TJ with the nipple so I can hook a hose too it. Love that little thing...

I cleaned the pan very good and used the included blue washer (DRY WASHER). I personally believe trying to use the crush washer was the wrong decision. Just have to hope now that you didn't damage your valve or stretch/strip its threads or the oil pan (unlikely, it is harder). You might even consider trying to get a NEW blue washer from Fumoto since you have already compressed that one against a washer, it may be damaged.

I think just the washer dry is the best way to go. There are probably arguments for and against putting sealant on it. I think it could help and or hurt it possibly. I opted to go with NO sealant, dry washer, tighten using common sense. No leaks and works awesome!

 

[Bio-T]

Seth,

Normally I agree with you 100% on the dry washer installation. But due to the vibration of the diesel engine, normal tightening of various things don't always work. For instance on the Full Flow Filter, the instructions say to tighten 1-1/2 turns after the base contact, using a filter wrench if necessary. And the same with the power washer, vibration is a big problem.

My fault for not explaining myself in the other post.