Need a cooling system cleaner...

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Due to sediment from the previous person running silicated coolant for nearly twice the recommended interval.

Should I use Prestone Super Flush or Super Radiator Cleaner?
 
Critic, I've used the Prestone Super Flush without any issues. It appeared to break off more rust deposits from my radiator when I did the first flush. If the cooling system was cared for, then there should be minimal deposits and the flush shouldn't have any issues removing it.
 
My two cents. I once worked at a place that had many industrial machines with coolant loops that used a mix of 50/50 automotive antifreeze. The lines were translucent so you could see the build up of rust and junk in them. Due to the process involved these systems needed flushing several times a year.

We tried every off the shelf cleaner we could find and the only one that actually worked was Prestone Heavy Duty Cleaner, the two part powdered stuff containing oxalic acid. It easily cleaned out the lines and everything else like new but it can sometimes be tough to find in stores. The other option is to buy and use oxalic acid separately as the cleaner and sodium carbonate as the neutralizer.
 
quote:

Originally posted by The Critic:
Due to sediment from the previous person running silicated coolant for nearly twice the recommended interval.

Should I use Prestone Super Flush or Super Radiator Cleaner?


You're a good BITOG guinea pig for RMI-25. I haven't heard of it causing any problems and some people swear by it, so it sounds low risk with high potential for doing some good.

This MSDS list is worth bookmarking:
http://www.wd-wpp.com/msds2.html

MSDS's for both cleaners you asked about are there. The Supercleaner is a lot more agressive.

The Prestone Heavy Duty Cleaner that Quickbeam mentioned will clean a cooling system out faster than a Taco Salad and a glass of water from a Tijuana street vendor will clean you out. The Heavy Duty Cleaner makes me nervous around late model super thin aluminum radiators though.
 
You mean there're now two BITOGers who question the implicit faith in unquestioningly resorting to Auto-Rx for whatever ails an engine or transmission?
gr_eek2.gif
(There's another "holy grail" BITOG article of faith I'll avoid commenting on for the time being...)
 
Since I'm new here I don't want to ruffle any feathers but the product seems way too hit or miss for me. Costs way too much money for those kinds of results. The term "semi-snake oil" comes to mind.

I'm also turned off by the "you can't go wrong" attitude of the dealer. Same with Motorguard and Amsoil. I expect them to defend their products but not to the near religious extent employed. It's like watching members of a cult and like cults simply because they "believe" doesn't mean squat. At least not to me. Fromw here I sit that belief is more connected to making a buck than anything else.

Even if I wanted to try the products just reading that stuff turns me off. Come across as if I'm dealing with brainwashed fanatics. In the end I see them as little different from the JWs who bang on my door preaching the word. For example I'd never spend a dime on Amsoil products based on this reasoning alone no matter how well they work. Others can, of course, do as they wish but that's my rant and I'm sticking to it.
 
Try RMI-25. I have used it and am very pleased with results. I had a old slant six that stayed on the edge of overheating. New radiator, new water pump, thermostate, cleaned with all kinds of cleaners and still ran too hot.

Used RMI-25 and within three weeks, it turned loose a bunch of junk and I was able to drain it out and flush. Ever since, engine runs cool and not able to overheat it any longer.

Get it, use it, be happy.

Dan
 
It's potent stuff alright. I was surprised at how well it removed the rust and scale compared to the other products we tried. I continue to use it on my vehicles when needed but at a 50% reduced cleaner dose. He could try a similar approach. I'm never stingy with the neutralizer though.

Althougth I've never tried RMI-25 it seems analogous to Auto-RX (gentle prolonged cleaning) and may be the way to go. Tht's assuming the stuff even works. As with Auto-RX I'm far from convinced RMI lives up to it's claims enough to be worth the cost. It's why I've not tried either product.
 
quote:

Originally posted by The Critic:
Just wary of such additives (RMI25). Not quite convinced that they're necessary.

This is what Critic has to say about RMI25 but I guess it doesn't apply to cheap over the counter harsh coolant treatments? Dang Critic why not just take some vinager and flush it through there? Are you convinced now you need a cooling system additive one week after you said it's not necessary to have them? Or do you just prefer something that says on the intructions that it has to be flushed out quick due to it's harshness as opposed to something that is so gentle that you can leave it in forever, and so thorough that will WILL get the slime that flushes will never get? Maybe you just don't believe me, lol? Dude, I did two flushes with Super Flush and it got no slime-Zero-Nada, even after leaving it too long. Then I tried RMI 25 and the slime is still coming harmlessly into overflow tank everyday.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=37;t=000690
I will remind people of the results I got using RMI25. Critic you go to all the RMI25 posts and bag on it eventhough you never used it and when you ask about a flush you ask about something that can really harm your cooling system? What am I missing?
 
One thing about the Super Flush, is that according to the instructions on the bottle, you will not remove 100% of the additive. So it be at least a good idea to pull the upper hose and let all the fluid drain out until it's pure water coming out.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Shelby:

quote:

Originally posted by The Critic:
Just wary of such additives (RMI25). Not quite convinced that they're necessary.

This is what Critic has to say about RMI25 but I guess it doesn't apply to cheap over the counter harsh coolant treatments? Dang Critic why not just take some vinager and flush it through there? Are you convinced now you need a cooling system additive one week after you said it's not necessary to have them? Or do you just prefer something that says on the intructions that it has to be flushed out quick due to it's harshness as opposed to something that is so gentle that you can leave it in forever, and so thorough that will WILL get the slime that flushes will never get? Maybe you just don't believe me, lol? Dude, I did two flushes with Super Flush and it got no slime-Zero-Nada, even after leaving it too long. Then I tried RMI 25 and the slime is still coming harmlessly into overflow tank everyday.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=37;t=000690
I will remind people of the results I got using RMI25. Critic you go to all the RMI25 posts and bag on it eventhough you never used it and when you ask about a flush you ask about something that can really harm your cooling system? What am I missing?


First, the makers of Prestone are a much larger company than the makers of RMI25, and I would've expected that they do more R&D work than RMI25's distributors/engineers. No offense to RMI25, as it may indeed be an excellent product as you've stated, but I just feel more comfortable using Prestone's product.

Second, if I were to use an additive as a last resort, I have no interest in leaving it in for an extended period of time. I have no clue how that will affect the additive package in the coolant. Besides, how are you so certain that RMI25 is harmless and Prestone Super Flush (or other) is? Could it just be that Prestone doesn't want to risk additive clash with coolant, hence they are not advising one to mix it and leaving it in their system for the long run?

Lastly, the sound of "slime" dripping into my overflow bottle on a daily basis isn't a very comforting though.
gr_eek2.gif
 
Fair enough points, but as Autorx has shown the smaller companies concentrate more on a good formula than marketing, otherwise ARX would be on every store shelf and not only available at one place over the internet. There are many companies like this, the best stuff is the more expensive stuff not the cheapest stuff that is mass marketed. Zaino polish is another of these type of companies, widely known as the most durable car detailing product out there, but not on any store shelf, instead you can buy Turtle wax anywhere you want. Does that mean turtle wax is better than Zaino, I think not. I am a detailer by trade, Zaino is the best and only available at one place like ARX. BTW, RMI25 is available at many other stores, most on the net, but still it is marketed at more places than ARX or Zaino.

I don't know for sure RMI25 is 100 safe to leave in, but the company says it is and that it is non toxic and non corosive. If you ask me it is some kind of degreaser which explains why it gets the greasey slimy stuff. Remember, I did two prestone flushes and got no slime, then ran RMI25 and it got the slime out. I had so much slime in there is was contricting my cooling system.

RMI25 extends the additive package according to the company. If you put it in coolant that needs to be changed it will extend that a "year" according to them.

Lastly, would you rather have slime in your system or in your overflow tank? That is the question, if you use RMI25 it will put all the slime that is currently stuck to the walls of your cooling system and deposit it into the overflow tank. The RMI25 is not making the slime, look at my pictures the slime is very old and dark brown, meaning to me it has been there for years. I'm not sure about all the companies claims but I know this is true because this much I can prove. I would have never believed this would happen because I think it is close to being a miracle, but I see it with my own eyes. After this I have to reason not to believe the companies claims.
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quote:

Originally posted by Big Jim:
How about having that slime sent to a lab to determine just what it really is?

Lol, are you for real? I don't know or care what it is, I know the RMI25 got it out. I know there was Dex in the system in the past and there is a lot of air in the system. I assume it's Dex Gel from it's inabilty to mix with air.
 
You should care. It looks like silicon gasket maker (RTV). Has the car had the intake manifold off or perhaps the thermostat changed? It looks like someone got sloppy with it.
 
What I do with a used car new to me:

[1] Pull lower hose, and drain.
[2] Remove block plug and clean out crud.
[3] Re-install hose & plug.
[4] Install and run PRESTONE FLUSH KIT (per directions, but no cleaner).
[5] Refill with tap water, and drive 15-20 miles. Return, and open radiator petcock, drain. Refill with distilled water (better, de-ionized), and run till again at op-temp plus 2-minutes. Continue drain/refill -- takes a long time -- till water is good and truly clear.

[6] Run Prestone two-part cleaner as above (Super Cleaner otherwise, but not as effective; I've not tried it on an aluminum radiator); per directions.
[7] Run FLUSH KIT again, water only. Drain.
[8] Replace all hoses/clamps/thermostat/water pump/rad cap. Remove overflow bottle and clean out (search on topic; I use bleach).
[9] Refill with deionized water/coolant per spec.
[10] Add RMI-25 (or SCHAEFFER's #258 CLEAN & COOL) , per directions.

Best to add a filter to system; see thread by BILL PLOCK
 
Unless there is a cooling system issue, I wouldn't use any flush. Just make sure your hoses, belts, fan, cap, thermostat, and pump are in good working order, drain/refill the antifreeze and DRIVE. Start a coolant drain/refill maintenance interval and DRIVE.
Always use distilled water when mixing your 50:50(or whatever ratio you decide to use). And, if you want, add a cooling treatment or additive. Good ones will help clean, lubricate, and prevent issues.

Now, if you're trying to stop overheating or high water temps, pick any of the radiator flushes, read the directions, and follow them. Zerex, Wynn, Gunk, Prestone, Lubegard, BarsLeaks all have decent products. Some are a hassle to use(depending on vehicle also).
 
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