Need A/C compressor help

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Samilcar
Yep, all air needs to be evacuated before the system is recharged with refrigerant.


I was right their when the guy recharged my A/C and he didn't evacuate the system. All we did is back flush the condenser with denatured alcohol. It was in the middle of summer with about 105F outside. The A/C blows cold air. It'll blow 40F out the vents when the outside temp is 83F.

yeah i don't think so.


...maybe with a low enough fan speed.

 

[Choi]

Any opinions on these units? Thoughts about the Spectra brand? Good value or would these get classified as "you get what you pay for" (bad)?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KS5...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER (This compressor comes dry)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZVJ...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2710-System-Fl...687&sr=1-32

Choi

 

[zzyzzx]

I would be OK with those Spectra parts.

 

[UNC017]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

No need to evacuate moisture out of the system unless you have humidity in the air. Usually this time of year in the middle of the summer, the humidity is practically zero.




That's just spectacularly BAD advice. You should ALWAYS pull a vacuum on an HVAC system after its been opened, even if the ambient humidity is 10%. Especially R-134a systems. ANY moisture is very bad, and air in the system will, if not prevent it from working at all, at least greatly reduce its efficiency. Air doesn't turn to liquid and boil back to a gas in the system, and gets "in the way" of the refrigerant doing its job. The moisture degrades the oil (especially PAG oil) and can create acids in the system.

 

[kschachn]

That advice is no worse than the rest of his other advice.

As you point out, the moisture in the system will freeze and you will end up with a non-functional system. Then the moisture will cause acids to form which will destroy the compressor and everything else.

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
No need to evacuate moisture out of the system unless you have humidity in the air. Usually this time of year in the middle of the summer, the humidity is practically zero.

That's just spectacularly BAD advice. You should ALWAYS pull a vacuum on an HVAC system after its been opened, even if the ambient humidity is 10%. Especially R-134a systems. ANY moisture is very bad, and air in the system will, if not prevent it from working at all, at least greatly reduce its efficiency. Air doesn't turn to liquid and boil back to a gas in the system, and gets "in the way" of the refrigerant doing its job. The moisture degrades the oil (especially PAG oil) and can create acids in the system.

 

[wag123]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

No need to evacuate moisture out of the system unless you have humidity in the air. Usually this time of year in the middle of the summer, the humidity is practically zero.




That's just spectacularly BAD advice. You should ALWAYS pull a vacuum on an HVAC system after its been opened, even if the ambient humidity is 10%. Especially R-134a systems. ANY moisture is very bad, and air in the system will, if not prevent it from working at all, at least greatly reduce its efficiency. Air doesn't turn to liquid and boil back to a gas in the system, and gets "in the way" of the refrigerant doing its job. The moisture degrades the oil (especially PAG oil) and can create acids in the system.

+1
And, ALWAYS replace the receiver/dryer.
You might also consider installing an A/C filter on the low side if you are concerned about the possibility of debris being in the system. A filter will protect your new compressor. Some repair shops install them as a matter of course whenever they replace a compressor.

 

[thrace]

Not sure if this is just a compressor clutch or the compressor. If it is the clutch bearing, might be able to tell by removing serpentine ac belt and turning ac clutch by hand with car off. Ac comp clutch can be removed without removing or disconnecting compressor. My car had a clutch issue only and compressor worked ok.
My Taurus clutch bearing rattled for months until it blew the AC clutch fuse and stopped running. Seized ac clutch bearing, engine would not run. Got DTC for clutch coil or low voltage to cpu. Did not realize what happened until spent time diagnosing issue. Probable cause was bad ground, bad voltage to ac clutch, clutch slipping, overheating, bearing overheat failure, seized bearing.

Can remove ac belt by using bath towel around belt and pulling up at highest point until you can move belt off a pulley. Put it back the same way. Rotate ac pulley by hand.
If bearing grinds, or is loose, maybe lucky and just clutch bearing and can replace clutch and coil without removing or disconnecting ac compressor.

Can replace clutch by disconnecting any wires and hoses that would get pulled when lowering subframe. Wires, hoses, right strut tower bolts, link to sway bar. Disconnect vacuum hoses near master cylinder as will get pulled tight or break. Unbolt and lower right side of subframe until can see most of AC clutch face, remove center bolt of ac clutch, use snap ring plier to remove snap ring, remove connector to clutch coil, pull clutch and coil out. Used a claw hammer to pry out.

Replace with new clutch and coil, and make sure get right shims to get right clutch gap clearance, replace snap ring, clutch center bolt. Shims under the head of ac clutch pulley are used to get right gap. Clutch kit came with several and save your old shims as may need them.Use right torque for clutch bolt. May need to reinstall more than once and measure gap with feeler gauge to get it right. May need wood block, hammer to put clutch back.

Use proper torque especially for subframe bolt and sway bar link. Too loose sway bar link means rattles.

 

[bcossa2001]

I spent many hours researching DIY air conditioning help and finally concluded what many on this forum have said---get a professional to diagnose it. I'm all for saving money by trying to do it yourself but I think after purchasing all of the tools/equipment and then learning by guess and gosh you'll be better finding a trusted professional.

 

[Choi]

Well if I dish out $80 more to get a new condenser (on top of the new compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, o-rings and flushing stuff), would you folks agree that there not much to worry about after a good flush, proper evacuation and recharge?

The parts run me approximately $350 and the evacuation/recharge would be another $75. $450 at the end. Love to cheap out on the condenser and make my bill $370 (I want to sell the car and upgrade).

I guess I'm dragging this out hoping to get some thumbs up from people who have done this before. While $450 is cheaper than the shop, it's still enough money to make me feel woozy.