My plan, what do you think?

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: deven
Here is what I have come up with. I just ordered Redline 5w20 online and I also bought Redline's break-in oil additive. Once they come in I'll be putting in 5 qts of Red Line 5w20 and 1/2 a bottle of the break-in oil. This way I can duplicate, some what, the break-in oil found in new honda engine. I will be usinga Fram XG7317 oil filter with this oil. I will follow the OLM from now on. So what do the hard core BITOGers think of this?


RedLine recommends running to 1,500-2,000 miles on a conventional 10w30 before switching to their oils in a new engine. They recommend the break in additive be run in the initial fill of conventional as well.

[URed Line]http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo_faq.aspx[/URed Line]

RedLine oils already contain 800-1500 ppm moly (depending on grade and lab), and 1300-1400 ppm zinc and phos (each), no need for the break in additive here. RedLine oils already contain more moly and ZDDP than Honda's "break in oil".

 

[deven]

Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: deven
Here is what I have come up with. I just ordered Redline 5w20 online and I also bought Redline's break-in oil additive. Once they come in I'll be putting in 5 qts of Red Line 5w20 and 1/2 a bottle of the break-in oil. This way I can duplicate, some what, the break-in oil found in new honda engine. I will be usinga Fram XG7317 oil filter with this oil. I will follow the OLM from now on. So what do the hard core BITOGers think of this?


RedLine recommends running to 1,500-2,000 miles on a conventional 10w30 before switching to their oils in a new engine. They recommend the break in additive be run in the initial fill of conventional as well.

[URed Line]http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo_faq.aspx[/URed Line]

RedLine oils already contain 800-1500 ppm moly (depending on grade and lab), and 1300-1400 ppm zinc and phos (each), no need for the break in additive here. RedLine oils already contain more moly and ZDDP than Honda's "break in oil".



I just checked the FAQ link. So now I am thoroughly confused. Redline is saying that their oil is too "slick" to be used as break-in oil because you want some friction to seat the piston rings correctly. Now the question is, if this is true, then why does honda break-in oil analysis always show a boat load of moly? Isn't moly's primary job to decrease friction?? Then this goes completely in the opposite thinking of what redline is saying. I guess I am thinking too much into this. I might just use a jug of Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 and dump in half the bottle of Redline break-in oil additive to boost ZDDP levels.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: KLowD9x
Why not use the correct Honda filter?

Honda makes a good filter.
Honda service filters are made by Honeywell (fram).

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I would NEVER run a real synthetic (as is redline) under 10K miles. This ester oil has high lubricity basestock and will ABSOLUTELY have a deleterious effect on ring and piston wear in. Use Mobil clean 5000 (or your choice) for 2 OCI then a fauxsyn like syntec for a short sub 1k oci and then in goes the redline. No rinse, no additisation. The Fram XG is a great filter and again Honeywell makes most Acura and Honda service filters. I would run a filter with a P-ring mount gasket not a flat gasket with the RL.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

You dont want to boost zddp levels >> 2k PPM - it has been shown to cause MORE WEAR and catastrophic cam failure. You want wear in in the first 10-20K miles. Just let it happen.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

The moly is for cam tappet wear-in and this has already happended on your car - happens in the first 1/2 hour of operation (assuming your engine employs shim-under-bucket tappets. If you have rollerised follower rockers - no worries.

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: deven
I just checked the FAQ link. So now I am thoroughly confused. Redline is saying that their oil is too "slick" to be used as break-in oil because you want some friction to seat the piston rings correctly. Now the question is, if this is true, then why does honda break-in oil analysis always show a boat load of moly?


The moly isn't the issue with ring seating, it's the POE base stocks.

 

[ottotheclown]

Why take a chance when you have a proven product? It has been noted quite a few times you should not dump the factory fill on Honda cars till the OLM hits 15%. GO to a Honda website and run it by them.Even the stealer if you can trust the service guy.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
I think it's a dumb idea. Be smart. It's a $30,000 new car with a warranty. Take it to the dealer for all, in warrany, oil changes. Then it's the Dealer's/Honda's fault if you need warranty work. You can take your own oil to the dealer if you want. The warranty compliance documentation is right there in the dealer's records.


I don't agree with that line of reasoning. Why wait 50K to 100K to start running a great oil. Why not start as early as possible.

There won't be any engine oil related problems. If there is an internal engine problem, go down to Walmart and throw in some $20 "approved" oil.

Quite honestly, I'm unaware of anyone who has ever had a warranty denied due to running a top of the line $10/quart oil. I've taked with the local Honda and Acura mechanics and they use 10w30 bulk conventional oil in everything that comes through there.

Another point to consider is that Acura charges depending on the location $60 and up to $100 for an oil change and that's bulk conventional. I know I wouldn't pay that much.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: deven
I just checked the FAQ link. So now I am thoroughly confused. Redline is saying that their oil is too "slick" to be used as break-in oil because you want some friction to seat the piston rings correctly. Now the question is, if this is true, then why does honda break-in oil analysis always show a boat load of moly?


The moly isn't the issue with ring seating, it's the POE base stocks.


Care to elaborate? I've never heard a thing about esters and break-in but I'm always open to new ideas.

 

[ArtDart]

deven, in all honesty, the best thing to do if you want to run RL, is to email Dave at Red Line with your questions. He is a good guy and will give you the answers you are looking for. He knows his product very very well. Follow his advice, and you will be fine....enjoy your ride and your oil.....jr

 

[FZ1]

My Honda dealer charges $20 to change the oil with a new Honda filter. I just take 'em the PP,so it costs $40 total. Dealer keeps the oil change records by vin # to document your warranty compliance and to show to a subsequent buyer should you sell the car. The records are worth the price of the dealer oil changes to some buyers.

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: deven
I just checked the FAQ link. So now I am thoroughly confused. Redline is saying that their oil is too "slick" to be used as break-in oil because you want some friction to seat the piston rings correctly. Now the question is, if this is true, then why does honda break-in oil analysis always show a boat load of moly?


The moly isn't the issue with ring seating, it's the POE base stocks.


Care to elaborate? I've never heard a thing about esters and break-in but I'm always open to new ideas.


http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo_faq.aspx

Q: Can I break-in my engine on Red Line motor oil?
A: For peformance engines, we recommend using conventional 10w30 motor oil to ensure proper piston ring seating. We recommend using this oil in combonation with our Engine Oil Break In Additive, which features the antiwear chemicals necessary to protect valve train components like camshafts, rollers, and tappets. Though most conventional oils are missing the important antiwear components that you find in Red Line's synthetic motor oils, the conventional oil is not as slick as Red Line and will allow the piston rings to seat more quickly. If you allow 1500 to 2000 miles in a street engine or 20 to 30 minutes on the dyno at low rpm, the rings will have had sufficient time to seat and the high initial break-in wear will have occurred. For new road cars, always follow the manufacturer recommendations and initial oil change recommendations for break-in.

 

[deven]

Originally Posted By: Ringo
deven, in all honesty, the best thing to do if you want to run RL, is to email Dave at Red Line with your questions. He is a good guy and will give you the answers you are looking for. He knows his product very very well. Follow his advice, and you will be fine....enjoy your ride and your oil.....jr


I did just this. Still waiting for a reply though but being the day after a long weekend, I am sure he has his plate full. Just to be on the safe side, I'll just use Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 with 1/2 a bottle of Red Line break-in oil additive to boost up the ZDDP and run it out to 5K then I'll use up the 10 quarts of Red Line 5w20 that I have coming in on the next 2 oil changes after that.
I am not the one to let the dealership service department touch my car plus I own an independant service shop and have everything I can ever need to do any sort of work I need to. Thanks for all the replies guys.

 

[deven]

I did get an answer from Dave and here it is:-

Originally Posted By: Dave
Deven,


Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, we would recommend allowing about 1500 to 2000 miles for the rings to seat before switching to our product, at 1000 miles the rings should be seated though I would recommend waiting a little longer to be sure. The Break-In Additive provides additional anti-wear protection for flat tappet cams, not necessary in your engine or with our motor oils.


Thank you for the good words...


Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil