My oil change intervals, Your opinions...

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My truck is a '02 GMC Sierra with the 5.3 engine. After the first two oil changes of Castrol GTX 10/30 I'm now at 6k miles and have switched to Mobil 1 10w30 and a K&N 2006 filter.

Now the bad news. I live about 4.5 miles from work and the engine is only up to running temp for 1.5 of those miles. I also tend to floor it almost once a day. I know this has to be pure hell on the oil. I was kinda thinking 5k or so. So lets have it, what do you guys think? All opinions welcome.

[ December 14, 2002, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: JWRENCH ]
 
5000 might be too long because of so many short trips to get there. If you get it out and run it on a 20 mile trip once a week it will give it a chance to burn off any water or fuel that may accumulate in the oil.

Why guess? Do some analysis at 3000 miles just to make certain you can run to 5000. For $20 you can get the answer you want.
 
Try do get it out on the highway on the weekend to help clean up after the short trip driving.

5000mi may be good but it's just a guess unless you do an analysis. Sample at 3000mi and again at 5000. This will alart you fuel dilution and condensation.
 
I would definitely put some highway miles on that truck. Must be nice though to drive such a short distance to work. My commute is 64 miles one way. I would do an analysis too. I'm thinking of trying it myself so I know what to do next.
 
Yeah we do try to take the truck on trips when we get to but I work every other weekend so it's usually once a month if I'm lucky. That also helps keep the miles off my wifes car cause she drives 100 miles round trip to work five days a week. I've never done an analysis, what do I catch the oil in and where do I send it off to? Thanks for your thoughts fellas.

[ December 14, 2002, 11:44 PM: Message edited by: JWRENCH ]
 
Look at the main page under 'Site Supporters'. Terry Dyson and Blackstone Labs are listed there. Sometimes the Schaeffer reps have extra kits for ten bucks or so.
 
Thanks Mormit, I'll go ahead and contact him and order an analysis kit. So When should I check it, Maybe 4000-4500 miles? Anybody have any recomendations?
 
Well, since it's your first time of analysis on this vehicle, I would recommend 3000 miles since your driving is considered severe service. This doesn't mean you need to drain completely, just get a sample. The analysis kits come with a small bottle that hold around 8 oz. to catch the oil in.

Generally you would need to warm up the engine before the drain and then pull the plug, allowing 10-20 seconds of oil pour out (into a clean container) before filling the bottle, then plug the pan again. Then you can pour the small amount of oil that drained back into the engine so none is wasted.

Based upon the report you get back, you can then decide to go to 5000 miles, or maybe the report suggests you should drain. Let the report speak for itself.

Once you figure out how far you can take your oil in your driving conditions then you can relax a bit on what interval you do analysis.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JWRENCH:
Ok, I'll give it a shot and see how it turns out. Thanks again everyone.

Hi, I would recommend that you change your oil based on time rather than miles.

With a conventional oil 3 months, with a higher quality oil, 6 months should be good.

Of coarse oil analysis will be the best indicator.
 
Jwrentch, just a word from experience on whom you get to do your oil analysis. I had 'several' labs do mine for me at first. The one that provided the most personal and valuable attenion for me was Dyson Analysis. Besides your getting the report mailed to you he will email you explaining things that might not be obvious on the report itself. If I could suggest any, that would be the one....
krholm...
 
Well I ended up with 6k miles in 7 months so hopefully at that rate I can keep it in that 6 month time window. And I'll give Dyson a try on the analysis.
Oh and Chris,
spaz.gif
I don't hardly think so brother. She got her car new in October and already has a cracked windshield from following a semi too close. I get chills down my spine when I have to let her drive my truck.
 
If it were my truck, driving less than 12K miles/yr. I would use dino and change every 4 mos. Using Wal-Mart oil and filters you can do it for $6 and save the money on expensive juice and filters for a few nights out.
 
Well you know up till now I've always used Castrol GTX. But after finding out I've basically been pouring wax into my engines I tried out the Mobil 1.
Man, I could actually see the difference right away. The oil pressure dropped about 6-8 psi. and the truck used to hit it's running temp at a certain intersection about two miles from my house. Now it always takes about an extra half a mile passed it. That stuff must really cut the friction down.
I've also ordered some redline 75w-90ns for the rearend to cut down the heat and friction back there too. I'm just having fun experimenting over here.
smile.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by JWRENCH:
Well you know up till now I've always used Castrol GTX. But after finding out I've basically been pouring wax into my engines...
....


I do not understand that at all. You have not been pouring wax into your engine, nor anything else except one of the better standard lube oils. There might be better oils, but you've been doing OK with that.

Do not confuse paraffinic base lube oil with paraffin wax. They are nothing alike in any way that any of us except a chemist can see or feel or experience. Paraffinic base crude oils are the premier crude oil for lubes...you don't want anything else for petroleum lubes.

Ken
 
Oh yeah I know, That's for the most part a joke. I've been loyal to the GTX since I was about twelve and hung around a guy in the neighborhood that rebuilt engines on the side. I used to see some bad stuff up there, he'd take the valve covers off and show me stp oil treatment sludged up or old quakerstate sludge etc.

He could usually tell you what kind of oil they were using just by the smell. And usually was right. He always recommended Havoline or Castrol. Of coarse this was before the big synthetic boom hit. But like I said though I'm just trying out something new for a change. (no pun intended)
grin.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by JWRENCH:
...I've also ordered some redline 75w-90ns for the rearend to cut down the heat and friction back there too. I'm just having fun experimenting over here.
smile.gif


You should use the regular 75w90 for more heat and friction reduction. The 75w90NS has no FM additives. Only necessary for racing or when you personally want to tune an LSD with FM add yourself. The regular 75w90 be used in street even on open diffs.
 
Jason, that's what I was thinking too but I found this page while doing a little digging around. Check out the very last line. Before I actually pour it in there I will be sure to ask the dealer shop manager about it. I'm on a first name basis with him after just having the truck in the shop three times in two weeks for the transmission acting up.

This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers about the compatibility and usage of the new Fuel Efficient SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant, GM P/N 12378261 (In Canada use P/N 10953455), with current axles, and with the non-synthetic axle lubricant, GM P/N 1052271 (In Canada use P/N 10950849), for the rear axles on the above light-duty trucks.

Testing has shown that the new synthetic lubricant will chemically attack the Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant. Use only the non-synthetic lubricant, P/N 1052271, in axles using RTV sealant (See 9.5 and 10.5 information below).

American Axle and Manufacturing (A.A.M.) has approved the use of the new Fuel Efficient SAE 75W-90 synthetic axle lubricant for rear axles with the following restrictions:

All 8.6 inch axles are compatible as originally built.

9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to mid-February 1998 are NOT compatible because RTV sealant is used on the cover pans. On vehicles built after mid-February 1998 and equipped with 9.5 inch rear axles, synthetic lubricant, P/N 12378261, can be used because the RTV was replaced with a gasket. Other mid-February changes to the 9.5 inch rear axles include a new cover pan and cover pan fasteners common to other axles.

Important
The new cover pan is not retrofittable to the housing of 9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to mid-February 1998. A new retrofit kit is available that will enable the use of synthetic lubricant for vehicles built after mid-February, 1998.

All 10.5 inch axles prior to March 3, 1999 are compatible if the axle shaft hub seal (RTV) is replaced with P/N 327739 gasket when changing to synthetic lubricant.

As a product improvement, this new lubricant has been released into 1999 current production C/K vehicles built after the above VIN breakpoints (Except HD3500 models which use 75W-140 synthetic lubricant, P/N 12346140).

It is recommended that synthetic lubricant be used when changing rear axle lubricant for the following reasons:
Potential fuel economy
Lower operating temperature under severe usage conditions

Important
You do not need to wash/rinse any non-synthetic lubricant from the axle cavity when changing over to a synthetic lubricant. However, you should remove debris from the magnet and the bottom of the axle cavity whenever the axle fluid is changed.

On light-duty trucks equipped with locking differentials, do NOT use a limited-slip additive.

[ December 18, 2002, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: JWRENCH ]
 
So your diff cover uses RTV? It sounded like yours was after that. Besides you have to remove the cover to change so put a gasket on instead.

I don't believe it will be a problem either way though. I think this was in another thread. And all they are saying is the problem is with THEIR lube and THEIR RTV. Change either one and I dont see problem.

Besides, the FM in the fluid won't make a difference in that respect, even if it were to be true.
 
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