My First Blackstone Oil Report...

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Just got this in my email, figgured id see if I should be concerned or not.

I put about 6,200 miles on this oil, which is more than I have ever done. Normally I run 3-4K... Oil was ENEOS 5W20. Vehicle is a 2002 Honda Accord V6.

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What do you guys think?
 
Car driven hard? First Synthetic run? How many months was it in there? Not a great report at all, and wouldnt run it again unless there are aggravating factors.
 
The car usually idles in the driveway until the coolant reaches about 125ºF, which is the bottom C line on the temp gauge. About 3-5 mins in the winter, 1 min in the summer. Usually driven somewhat hard once its up to temp for 5-10 mins. Oil is probably 6-7 months old. This is the first time using the ENEOS, Ive always ran various synthetic oils since I purchased the car over 4 years ago. I think the ENEOS is considered a Semi-Synthetic.

And i don't know what a VOA is, so I probably dont have one of those.
 
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Originally Posted By: ZOMGVTEK


And i don't know what a VOA is, so I probably dont have one of those.

This wasn't directed at you specifically. I just threw it out there, asking for Virgin Oil Analysis that may have been posted here in the past so that we could compare to see how much of it was the add pack and how much was actual wear.

I found one Eneos VOA, but it's for their 0w-20 oil, so probably of no use in this case though:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1041754

Strange that the TBN was 2 on it though. Weird analysis.
 
vOA - Thats a "virgin oil analysis" - you can do an "advanced search" (upper forum gray tool bar) when you are in the VOA section. Just put ENEOS in the header search and look back 3 years. I'll do it concurrently - we can have a search race!
 
This group is really excited about oil! :)
I never see this kind of activity on any forum...

Since searching isnt working out too well for me, is there any specific oil I 'should' be running thats readily available and not super expensive? Im going to be doing another oil change in a month or so at the rate im pounding miles on... Engine recommends 5W20.

And im using a OEM Honda filter. I think its the ones with the H on the bottom, which I believe is made in canada. Is there anything better I can go to any store and pick up?
 
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Before this was actually Royal Purple 5W20...

And I believe before that was Castrol Syntec, Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1, and I cant recall prior to those.

I was surprised by how cold my oil was coming out of the pan when I changed it. I checked my oil pan right after getting to school this morning, it was probably 100-110ºF. About a 40 min drive, 1/2 of the way is highway speeds, 20ºF ambients. Feels kinda cold to me, but im not sure.
 
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Originally Posted By: ZOMGVTEK
is there any specific oil I 'should' be running thats readily available and not super expensive? Im going to be doing another oil change in a month or so at the rate im pounding miles on... Engine recommends 5W20.

Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra 5w-20 would probably work.
 
OUCH! You've definitely got yourself a problem that needs solving. No point in going with a synthetic at this point since you need to be changing your oil often until you figure out what the source of the sodium and the copper, iron and chromium are. These J30 engines are not naturally that hard on oil with some fuel dillution being the most common problem. Stop idling your engine to warm it up for starters. Start it and in 10 seconds you're ready to drive. Don't run it hard until everything is completely warmed up (~10 minutes or so).

Have you owned this car since new? Was there any work done recently? Do you live near the ocean or very salty roads?

On the bright side, you've found that you have a problem so now you can figure out how to solve it. 99% of people would never know there was an issue until something actually fails.
 
Originally Posted By: OrdnanceMarine
OUCH! You've definitely got yourself a problem that needs solving. No point in going with a synthetic at this point since you need to be changing your oil often until you figure out what the source of the sodium and the copper, iron and chromium are. These J30 engines are not naturally that hard on oil with some fuel dillution being the most common problem. Stop idling your engine to warm it up for starters. Start it and in 10 seconds you're ready to drive. Don't run it hard until everything is completely warmed up (~10 minutes or so).

Have you owned this car since new? Was there any work done recently? Do you live near the ocean or very salty roads?

On the bright side, you've found that you have a problem so now you can figure out how to solve it. 99% of people would never know there was an issue until something actually fails.


If I dont let it warm up a few mins the trans shifts very hard when its cold outside. And if I dont let the car idle a few mins when its below freezing, it runs noticeably worse. I usually dont let the car idle too long, but on this oil change id say I have several times of 10-30 min idles with a warm engine. You might not know how terrible cars feel when the engine is in the 10-20ºF range, which is normal for this time of year. Every car I ever drove when its cold outside feels terrible until it warms up.

I owned the car since it had 32K miles on it. The engine was never touched, just oil changes. We generally have salty roads here 6 months out of the year.

Those levels are really that high? Im not really concerned about the engine, I dont plan on having the car past 100K anyways. I waited a little longer than normal on this oil change, I never usually let it go past 4k.
 
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In regards to the oil filter you're using, the ones with the "H" on the bottom are made by Honeywell, a.k.a. Fram filters. They're not that bad, but there are better alternatives for the money. Pick up a Purolator PureONE or a Napa Gold/Wix for the same price and IMO they're better filters than the Honda PLM-15400-A02 you used.
 
The copper is kind of high. Try a different Semi Synthetic, or run ENEOS 5W20 a couple more times to establish a trend for your engine.
 
I have the exact same batch of oil in there again...
I might get it analyzed after 3k, since the Iron and Copper looks really high compared to other results. My my 'Universal Averages' are really high compared to others as well.

Next fillup will likely be Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20, with a Purolator PureONE filter.
 
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Originally Posted By: ZOMGVTEK
Originally Posted By: OrdnanceMarine
OUCH! You've definitely got yourself a problem that needs solving. No point in going with a synthetic at this point since you need to be changing your oil often until you figure out what the source of the sodium and the copper, iron and chromium are. These J30 engines are not naturally that hard on oil with some fuel dillution being the most common problem. Stop idling your engine to warm it up for starters. Start it and in 10 seconds you're ready to drive. Don't run it hard until everything is completely warmed up (~10 minutes or so).

Have you owned this car since new? Was there any work done recently? Do you live near the ocean or very salty roads?

On the bright side, you've found that you have a problem so now you can figure out how to solve it. 99% of people would never know there was an issue until something actually fails.


If I dont let it warm up a few mins the trans shifts very hard when its cold outside. And if I dont let the car idle a few mins when its below freezing, it runs noticeably worse. I usually dont let the car idle too long, but on this oil change id say I have several times of 10-30 min idles with a warm engine. You might not know how terrible cars feel when the engine is in the 10-20ºF range, which is normal for this time of year. Every car I ever drove when its cold outside feels terrible until it warms up.

I owned the car since it had 32K miles on it. The engine was never touched, just oil changes. We generally have salty roads here 6 months out of the year.

Those levels are really that high? Im not really concerned about the engine, I dont plan on having the car past 100K anyways. I waited a little longer than normal on this oil change, I never usually let it go past 4k.


10 to 30 minutes spent idling to warm up the car? Holy [censored]! That's completely unnecessary and is actually doing more harm than good.

Engines take longer to warm up without varying speeds and putting a load on them. Forcing an engine to warm up idling in park/neutral increases the time the engine is running with oil that isn't at operating temperature, likewise increasing engine wear and needlessly wasting gas.

Transmissions warm up faster under load as well. In park the only thing that's moving while the car is in Park is the torque converter. Start the car and let it run for 20-30 seconds max so that the engine can build oil pressure and drive. Take it easy on the car for the first few minutes, but after that you can drive normally.
 
Originally Posted By: Billy007
The copper is kind of high. Try a different Semi Synthetic, or run ENEOS 5W20 a couple more times to establish a trend for your engine.


+1... need to establish a trend! Switching oils every OC and getting a UOA won't give you any worthy data.
 
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