My 99 Toyota Avalon

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has 98k miles. I have changed oil & filter every 3k since it was new. I use Castrol GTX and NAPA Gold filters. This car has the 3.0 V6 engine which had the sludge/gel issue; BUT, knock on wood, I haven't had any problems. At 90k I pulled a valve cover and everything looked clean except for minor varnish.

In reading this forum, I believe there are better conventional oils out there and I can extend my OCI easily without causing any damage to my engine.

I drive my car about 6-8k per year, mostly short trips around town.

So, should I use a different conventional oil? Should I extend my OCI? I would like to save a few $$$ but I don't want to create a sludge/gel issue. Thanks for your help.
 
If you are going to extend oil changes on this particular engine, use synthetic oil only, such as Pennzoil Platinum, M1, or better, such as Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 Extended Performance and still change at the one year interval, based on the number of miles you are currently going. Short trips are harder on oil than long highway trips. Look for one of those oil change specials that includes a good filter such as a Purolator PureOne and buy the longer one that fits the same, a PL20195, if available.

You still may not save much money unless you are changing it yourself. But you may save some time overall by only changing the oil once per year or so.
 
I used Castrol GTX for several years but after coming here I bought some Pennzoil Platinum synthetic and I now run that.

I used to do 2 OCI/year with GTX 10-30. I now do 1 OCI/year with Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. I think you could do the same with good results.
 
Do you have to add oil between oil changes? That could mean poor ring seal. Folks use Auto RX or synthetic oil to clean rings. You shouldn't have to add oil doing short intervals.

Is fuel economy normal for this model? If so, you shouldn't have to test for fuel dilution which over time would make heavier varnish.

I think other brands of dino are similar to Castrol. Check Toyota tsb's for oil change guidelines.
 
Originally Posted By: jorton
Do you have to add oil between oil changes? That could mean poor ring seal. Folks use Auto RX or synthetic oil to clean rings. You shouldn't have to add oil doing short intervals.

Is fuel economy normal for this model? If so, you shouldn't have to test for fuel dilution which over time would make heavier varnish.

I think other brands of dino are similar to Castrol. Check Toyota tsb's for oil change guidelines.


Nope, doesn't burn a drop. Yes, I get normal fuel economy which is about 18-19 mpg around town.
 
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
If you are going to extend oil changes on this particular engine, use synthetic oil only, such as Pennzoil Platinum, M1, or better, such as Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 Extended Performance and still change at the one year interval, based on the number of miles you are currently going. Short trips are harder on oil than long highway trips. Look for one of those oil change specials that includes a good filter such as a Purolator PureOne and buy the longer one that fits the same, a PL20195, if available.

You still may not save much money unless you are changing it yourself. But you may save some time overall by only changing the oil once per year or so.


My only concern about synthetic is the infamous rear oil seal which are notorious leakers on this engine. So far mine has been ok. I know that it is probably an old wives tale that synthetics leak more than dino but...
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
If you are going to extend oil changes on this particular engine, use synthetic oil only, such as Pennzoil Platinum, M1, or better, such as Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 Extended Performance and still change at the one year interval, based on the number of miles you are currently going. Short trips are harder on oil than long highway trips. Look for one of those oil change specials that includes a good filter such as a Purolator PureOne and buy the longer one that fits the same, a PL20195, if available.

You still may not save much money unless you are changing it yourself. But you may save some time overall by only changing the oil once per year or so.


My only concern about synthetic is the infamous rear oil seal which are notorious leakers on this engine. So far mine has been ok. I know that it is probably an old wives tale that synthetics leak more than dino but...

If it isn't broken, why fix it!? What you are doing is working so no need to try to change anything buddy. If you want to save some dollars, change your oil @ 5k oci instead of 3k. NO need to mess with synthetics especially with the amount of miles you put on your car.
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
If you are going to extend oil changes on this particular engine, use synthetic oil only, such as Pennzoil Platinum, M1, or better, such as Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 Extended Performance and still change at the one year interval, based on the number of miles you are currently going. Short trips are harder on oil than long highway trips. Look for one of those oil change specials that includes a good filter such as a Purolator PureOne and buy the longer one that fits the same, a PL20195, if available.

You still may not save much money unless you are changing it yourself. But you may save some time overall by only changing the oil once per year or so.


My only concern about synthetic is the infamous rear oil seal which are notorious leakers on this engine. So far mine has been ok. I know that it is probably an old wives tale that synthetics leak more than dino but...


From what I've read, there were cases several years ago that pointed to leaks caused by switching to syn oil. But things have changed quite a bit in the last 20-30 years. Seals are made out of much better material than they used to be, and most syn oil has at least some seal conditioner in it.

Valvoline makes a great syn oil with extra seal conditioners in it called Maxlife. It's definitely capable of 5k OCIs, and it's reasonably priced as well. Many on this forum use it with good results. In fact, I've read a couple of accounts where using Maxlife actually stopped a seal from leaking. You may want to consider this oil.
 
KNOWN SLUDGER + SHORT TRIPS + LOW MILES = OFTEN OIL CHANGES.. With ANY oil.
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Syn is NOT going to help you when the above is loading the oil with by-products and moisture. The only way to get rid of that is to CHANGE the oil. With your use OFTEN is the rule.

GTX is a excellent oil. So are other API-SL/SM conventional oils.

Keep going with what brought you here!
thumbsup2.gif


Take care, bill
 
I'd keep doing exactly what you are doing. GTX is a very stout oil, with lots of detergent/dispersant in it, so it will easily handle 3-4k intervals in a sludger.

If you INSIST on going longer, I'd use Mobil 1 5w30, changed once per year. Mobil 1 just seems to work really, really well in Toyota engines. It will easily do 6-8k, even with all short trips.
 
3k OCIs won't be your savior. My wifes '99 avalon still sludged up on nothing but 3k OCIs (documented with receipts). It took longer than where you are at but it still happened.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
3k OCIs won't be your savior. My wifes '99 avalon still sludged up on nothing but 3k OCIs (documented with receipts). It took longer than where you are at but it still happened.


Wow, sorry to hear that. What oil did you use and what was the mileage when your engine sludged? Thanks.
 
Known sludger, so change the PCV valve as well as frequent oil changes. I've gone 125k using a syn and a 5k OCI regimen. Good luck to you Art. Let us know what you decide upon and how it works. That's how we all benefit.
 
Sludgemonster! I have one! 1MZ-FE

With low miles and short trips, just use a quality dino and change before 3k.
I've used PP in my monster. it does do a nice job cleaning because my drain oil was black after my initial 4k run with it. Now i run MC5K and just do 3k intervals
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
3k OCIs won't be your savior. My wifes '99 avalon still sludged up on nothing but 3k OCIs (documented with receipts). It took longer than where you are at but it still happened.


Did you have to replace the engine?
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
So, should I use a different conventional oil? Should I extend my OCI? I would like to save a few $$$ but I don't want to create a sludge/gel issue. Thanks for your help.


I don't have any experience with Auto RX but I have heard about ARX "maintenance dose". A couple ounces every o/c could prevent future sludging and would cost only a few $$$. Check with members who use ARX. And check the Toyota tsb's for o/c guidelines.
 
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