Mower won't start

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Just out for a final mow and blowing some leaves. Ran over a good pile and she stalled out. Wouldn't come back. Let it sit a day and another day and still won't start. Has gas and oil. Felt like it was almost there and once did but stalled 2 seconds later. Today wouldn't start. I got a few pics here. Please excuse my ignorance...When I pull the release near the handle that little metal part moves on the back side of the engine. I thought the little metal piece on the front moved as well when mower was running...that kind of revved it. (Isn't that awful...little metal thing?) Have a look at the pics.

Again, please correct/advise on identifying parts. Poulan 5

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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Erx2QA6G6oTEpvb2cxaGwxcFk/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Erx2QA6G6ocmR1Q0Vnck5ycDg/edit?usp=sharing

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I would pull the blower shroud off the top of the engine and check the flywheel key. If that sheared, it can cause a no start condition, especially after suddenly loading the engine until it stalls.
 
Kinda hard to believe a pile of leaves would shear a flywheel key.
I would say you fouled out the plug. Put in a new one to verify.
 
Unless you hit something hard, like a rock, the flywheel key should be OK.

Pull the plug, check for spark. While you have it out pull the engine over a few times just to help clear the cylinder, if you've flooded it with the primer.
 
I bet you got a leaf in the governor, or poked a spring. That's the stuff on top of your gas tank there, it opens the throttle blade in the carb depending on load. Twigs can get in there though and wreak havoc, and this comes up at leaf busting time.

Make sure the two bolts that hold the gas tank/ carb on are tight; they vibrate loose and cause a vacuum leak. If you feel like taking it off, make sure the o-ring on the intake is okay.

The kill switches on these are junk and the first thing to break. Make sure the thing that grounds the little black wire is mechanically moving okay and not grounding the wire in the "run" position-- tie off the deadman lever to test.
 
Sorry...keep revealing my stupidity...

When I pull the plug how to I check for spark?

When I overloaded with going over the pile of leaves, they were a bit heavy and ground up. (saying this nicely) how would that interfere with the plug? (Just trying to learn). Also, would the flywheel key...would that be an obvious object I could see if I took the top off?

Thanks for the ideas.
 
Attach the plug nipple to the plug wire then leave the plug hanging so its threads are close to or touching the engine block. Get it somewhere dark, pull the rope, look for spark. (Rope will pull very loose.)

The plug is way on the other end though so you may want to prop up a mirror or something to keep an eye on it or get a helper.

Small chance of gas fumes coming out the plug hole and going bang, so don't get your face in it.
 
"...the flywheel key...would that be an obvious object I could see if I took the top off?"

Not from the ones I've seen (maybe others have seen differently). It didn't fall out to leave a visible piece. It simply shears.
 
I pulled the plug, let it dangle and had the mirror in the garage, I did see the spark.

Also, the throttle control piece in the front, should that move with the release near the handle? I remember when I jam the mower in the bushes a twig got stuck in there and it was on high throttle. Should it be touching the other piece of that metal?

What should I try next?
 
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I didn't but it was awfully dirty the plug was. Is that a special mower plug or can I got to the Auto Parts store and get one? So don't pull anything else apart till I try the plug?

Why though would the plug just quit going through some heavy leaves?
 
You could try cleaning it in gas and make sure the electrodes are clean. But I would buy one anyways to see if it starts. Maybe put the old one back after it runs with it. Auto parts store may have one but Home Depot or Lowes will for sure. When you went thru the leaves you overloaded the engine and caused it to foul the plug.
 
The throttle control is unrelated to the deadman. The deadman cuts spark and lets a spring loaded brake drag on the flywheel. Just sitting there staring at it not running, the throttle should be wide open as the speed is "too low".

If you think you fouled the plug, hold it over a flame like a cigarette lighter. Then rub a little sandpaper through the gap, both sides. Try sticking it up between the outer shell and ceramic, mostly to absorb any oil that's up in there. A paper towel would also work. Heat it up again: They like heat, stick it in the motor and crank it over while still warm.
 
When you pull or release the engine brake lever, yes you should see the part on the engine move back and forth. If is has spark and the rope isn't jerking your arm out of joint when pulling on it, it's probably not the flywheel key.

Did you turn the mower over to look at the bottom when it died? Might be oil in the wrong places.

If you see spark when checking the plug, you should clean the carb out. Directions...

Take the air filter off with a flat head screw driver. Take a digital picture of what is underneath for later reference. Remove the 1/2 inch bolt that holds the carb/tank to the engine. Remove the 3/8 (or 7/16) inch bolt from the end of the tank. Pull the tank away from the engine and do what you have to do to remove the linkage from the carb.

Remove the 5 Phillips screws holding the carb to the tank. Inspect the gasket/diaphragm and ensure it is soft and pliable. Completely blow/empty out inside and top of the tank. Push primer bulb in to expel excess gas from carb. Blow air on the bottom of the carb and into the hole at the base of the pickup tube. (Not too hard into that hole or the primer will burst). Air should come out of pickup tube. Place your thumb over the spring so it won’t blow away. Reassemble carb and reinstall. Should be good to go. Don’t pull the gasket and diaphragm apart, but if you do, make sure you assemble in the following order. Tank, diaphragm, gasket, then carb. The diaphragm may be bad. It usually is. O’Reillys in my area sells them for about 3 bucks, and the mower shops charge 7 or 8.

Let us know if you get it running.
 
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Remove the air filter, check intake area for obstructions, and try starting it. If it runs without the air filter, your filter is clogged.
 
Originally Posted By: strat81
Remove the air filter, check intake area for obstructions, and try starting it. If it runs without the air filter, your filter is clogged.


Just had this happen to me. Mower started on second pull when I started mowing but I stalled it in some high grass. Would not start afterward. Filter totally clogged. Could not believe I let it get that bad. Removed filter and it started on second pull again. Cleaned filter and put back in to finish up.
 
check the 3 basic things:

-spark
-fuel
-air

It is indeed possible that your timing is completely off due to the sheared key on the flywheel part (to do that: you have to undo the recoil catch cup on top of the flywheel in order to view your shear key). It may not be due to the tall grass but the key may have been at the brink of being completely sheared just before you hit the grass....always check to make sure your key (timing) is good.

As for fuel: those pulsa-ject carb must be kept clean/free from debris and when in doubt: undo the tank support screw and then drain it and re-fuel it. Take apart (make sure you have a new carb diaphram handy) and check/clear any clogs.

Q.
 
I assume you have made sure there is gas in the tank? I would replace the plug, they are cheap. Clean air filter if visibly dirty. If the engine came to a sudden stop vs a slow bogged down stop, then I would check the flywheel key for being sheared.
 
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