Motors hard on oil
- Thread starter Camprunner
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Originally Posted By: bbhero
Yeah that does make sense on both counts. They are interrelated in that way at the end of the day
Though I have heard the guides to the timing chain have been problematic for some people. So far so good though
For the most part those who have problems with chain guides are abusing dino with too long of an OCI, creating heavy varnish or sludge, plugging the small oiling holes in that system.
Yeah that does make sense on both counts. They are interrelated in that way at the end of the day
Though I have heard the guides to the timing chain have been problematic for some people. So far so good though
For the most part those who have problems with chain guides are abusing dino with too long of an OCI, creating heavy varnish or sludge, plugging the small oiling holes in that system.
Hi,
Camprunner - the OEM has done all the homework for you. It's wise to use the lubricant specified by the Manufacturer
Since ACEA came on the scene lubricant specification's have become more "generalised" - where the OEM has a specific Approval requirement then it is wise to be prudent and use it!!
It is true that modern engine designs have a multitude of requirements that a lubricant must perform - and the correct viscosity has therefore become more important IMO
Camprunner - the OEM has done all the homework for you. It's wise to use the lubricant specified by the Manufacturer
Since ACEA came on the scene lubricant specification's have become more "generalised" - where the OEM has a specific Approval requirement then it is wise to be prudent and use it!!
It is true that modern engine designs have a multitude of requirements that a lubricant must perform - and the correct viscosity has therefore become more important IMO
When I did the first oil change on my 2011 Hyundai sonatas 2.0t motor I was shocked at how black, thin and gassy it was. Turbo, vvt, chain cam drive, balance shaft running twice crank speed, direct injection, 17 pounds of boost on top of 9.7 static compression beats up syns to drop 30 wts to 20 in 4200 miles. I did a flush w conventional 10 w 30 once just to see if it would stop my fresh oil change becoming dark in a few hundred miles. It came out after idling 10 minutes like a diesels' oil after 7k miles. Soot city. I just try not to look to hard at it anymore. 278 hp and 263 ft lb from 2 liters doesn't come easy, she runs like a scalded ape, and no troubles after 50 k miles of 4500 miles oci with otc syns.
I dont consider the Jeep 4.0 to be hard one oil, but I have read here that it can shear a 5w30 weight down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles. I stick with 10w30 oils and only run a 5w30 for a little less than 3000 miles in the winter. Around Christmas to mid March or so.
I don't know of any motors hard on oil, but there might be some engines that are.
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I dont consider the Jeep 4.0 to be hard one oil, but I have read here that it can shear a 5w30 weight down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles. I stick with 10w30 oils and only run a 5w30 for a little less than 3000 miles in the winter. Around Christmas to mid March or so.
You do know that 10W-30 and 5W-30 are identical at operating temperatures? The 5W and 10W are only applicable at really cold temps.
I dont consider the Jeep 4.0 to be hard one oil, but I have read here that it can shear a 5w30 weight down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles. I stick with 10w30 oils and only run a 5w30 for a little less than 3000 miles in the winter. Around Christmas to mid March or so.
You do know that 10W-30 and 5W-30 are identical at operating temperatures? The 5W and 10W are only applicable at really cold temps.
I think it's many factors for the VQ35.
The engine looks so complex with the timing cover off. 2 big chains and 2 small chains.
It also had a small sump in the earlier years like my Maxima and Altima had. (4qt) and they also ran really warm. (oil temps)
That being said I still loved my VQ's more than any other engine I've had minus my Honda K20. They are just great engines.
The engine looks so complex with the timing cover off. 2 big chains and 2 small chains.
It also had a small sump in the earlier years like my Maxima and Altima had. (4qt) and they also ran really warm. (oil temps)
That being said I still loved my VQ's more than any other engine I've had minus my Honda K20. They are just great engines.
The 4.2L FSI V8 in the B7 RS4s and the 2.0L FSI engines in early MKV GTIs, MK2 TTs, and MKVII Golf Rs are very hard on oil because of fuel dillution. My R left Motul Specific 5w40 at 9.58cSt@100c after about 4500 miles on its last analysis.
--Matt
--Matt
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Man, you are awesome !!
Well I have heard that the VQ35 motors are hard on oil. Have a tendency to shear oil very well. I've heard that the timing chain guides are where the weak point is in the motor. Guides break and cause all kinds of trouble. One reason I don't go way long intervals is what I've heard about these motors being hard on oil. But more importantly is the fact that 50% of my driving is stop and go, plus short trips to the numerous grocery stores nearby. Almost always manage to forget something
I think the VQ has become notorious for shearing oil because of its small sump.
Agree on this point. My MIL's VQ37 is a 5 quart sump. So is my 4-cylinder CR-V.
Prior to '03, Ford's mod motor 4.6 also have a 5qt sump... Was increased to 6 for the '03 MY...
AFAIK trucks were always at least 6 qt...
Supposedly the squeezing between chain links and gears damages the VIIs but that may well be on earlier oils... These engines can run 300K mi with relative ease, can't really be hard on oil...
Actually the 4.6/5.4 engines all had the same oil pan and they were originally called a 6 quart pan but 7 fits without crank splashing issues.
The only change was the length of the dipstick.
The oil pan never changed
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Man, you are awesome !!
Well I have heard that the VQ35 motors are hard on oil. Have a tendency to shear oil very well. I've heard that the timing chain guides are where the weak point is in the motor. Guides break and cause all kinds of trouble. One reason I don't go way long intervals is what I've heard about these motors being hard on oil. But more importantly is the fact that 50% of my driving is stop and go, plus short trips to the numerous grocery stores nearby. Almost always manage to forget something
I think the VQ has become notorious for shearing oil because of its small sump.
Agree on this point. My MIL's VQ37 is a 5 quart sump. So is my 4-cylinder CR-V.
Prior to '03, Ford's mod motor 4.6 also have a 5qt sump... Was increased to 6 for the '03 MY...
AFAIK trucks were always at least 6 qt...
Supposedly the squeezing between chain links and gears damages the VIIs but that may well be on earlier oils... These engines can run 300K mi with relative ease, can't really be hard on oil...
Actually the 4.6/5.4 engines all had the same oil pan and they were originally called a 6 quart pan but 7 fits without crank splashing issues.
The only change was the length of the dipstick.
The oil pan never changed
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Actually the 4.6/5.4 engines all had the same oil pan and they were originally called a 6 quart pan but 7 fits without crank splashing issues.
The only change was the length of the dipstick.
The oil pan never changed
Whoa! Really!?
Wow, that's actually very interesting to know, considering I've got a 5.4L. Now of course, I'm not going to dump 7 quarts in, that'd be silly. I just never knew that there was that much of a safe margin for "overfill" in those engines. Thanks, Clevy.
By "splashing" I assume you mean that the level would be high enough to possibly cause frothing issues?
~ Triton
Actually the 4.6/5.4 engines all had the same oil pan and they were originally called a 6 quart pan but 7 fits without crank splashing issues.
The only change was the length of the dipstick.
The oil pan never changed
Whoa! Really!?
Wow, that's actually very interesting to know, considering I've got a 5.4L. Now of course, I'm not going to dump 7 quarts in, that'd be silly. I just never knew that there was that much of a safe margin for "overfill" in those engines. Thanks, Clevy.
By "splashing" I assume you mean that the level would be high enough to possibly cause frothing issues?
~ Triton
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I dont consider the Jeep 4.0 to be hard one oil, but I have read here that it can shear a 5w30 weight down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles. I stick with 10w30 oils and only run a 5w30 for a little less than 3000 miles in the winter. Around Christmas to mid March or so.
You do know that 10W-30 and 5W-30 are identical at operating temperatures? The 5W and 10W are only applicable at really cold temps.
I never said they weren't identical at operating temp. In any other engine calling for a 5w30, I would have no issue running it the full 5k. Just saying the 4.0 can shear a 5w30 down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles.
Don't take my word for it though.. do some research.
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I dont consider the Jeep 4.0 to be hard one oil, but I have read here that it can shear a 5w30 weight down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles. I stick with 10w30 oils and only run a 5w30 for a little less than 3000 miles in the winter. Around Christmas to mid March or so.
You do know that 10W-30 and 5W-30 are identical at operating temperatures? The 5W and 10W are only applicable at really cold temps.
I never said they weren't identical at operating temp. In any other engine calling for a 5w30, I would have no issue running it the full 5k. Just saying the 4.0 can shear a 5w30 down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles.
Don't take my word for it though.. do some research.
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I dont consider the Jeep 4.0 to be hard one oil, but I have read here that it can shear a 5w30 weight down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles. I stick with 10w30 oils and only run a 5w30 for a little less than 3000 miles in the winter. Around Christmas to mid March or so.
You do know that 10W-30 and 5W-30 are identical at operating temperatures? The 5W and 10W are only applicable at really cold temps.
I never said they weren't identical at operating temp. In any other engine calling for a 5w30, I would have no issue running it the full 5k. Just saying the 4.0 can shear a 5w30 down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles.
Don't take my word for it though.. do some research.
So what you are saying is that the 4.0L Jeep engine will shear 5W-30 to 5W-20, but 10W-30 is immune and will not become 10W-20 in the same engine?
Fascinating.
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I dont consider the Jeep 4.0 to be hard one oil, but I have read here that it can shear a 5w30 weight down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles. I stick with 10w30 oils and only run a 5w30 for a little less than 3000 miles in the winter. Around Christmas to mid March or so.
You do know that 10W-30 and 5W-30 are identical at operating temperatures? The 5W and 10W are only applicable at really cold temps.
I never said they weren't identical at operating temp. In any other engine calling for a 5w30, I would have no issue running it the full 5k. Just saying the 4.0 can shear a 5w30 down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles.
Don't take my word for it though.. do some research.
So what you are saying is that the 4.0L Jeep engine will shear 5W-30 to 5W-20, but 10W-30 is immune and will not become 10W-20 in the same engine?
Fascinating.
Compared to cam gears chains are pussycats. I would not worry about it. Their is a reason their is not a timing chain test used to test shearing of PCMP's.
If you need something to worry about then worry about the reduction of phosphorous, sulfur and zinc compounds in your oil. The first two are especially helpful at reducing the wear and tear on a timing gear!
If you need something to worry about then worry about the reduction of phosphorous, sulfur and zinc compounds in your oil. The first two are especially helpful at reducing the wear and tear on a timing gear!
Originally Posted By: JFK
Compared to cam gears chains are pussycats. I would not worry about it. Their is a reason their is not a timing chain test used to test shearing of PCMP's.
So GF6 is introducing a Timing Chain Wear Test because they were bored?
Compared to cam gears chains are pussycats. I would not worry about it. Their is a reason their is not a timing chain test used to test shearing of PCMP's.
So GF6 is introducing a Timing Chain Wear Test because they were bored?
Most modern engines PCV functions, hot spots where oil and heat pool after shut down and placement of exhast componets are what really kils the oil!
The ever increasing emission regulations are killing oil!
Ever increasing power density to keep pace with the horsepower wars is not helping either.
The ever increasing emission regulations are killing oil!
Ever increasing power density to keep pace with the horsepower wars is not helping either.
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I dont consider the Jeep 4.0 to be hard one oil, but I have read here that it can shear a 5w30 weight down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles. I stick with 10w30 oils and only run a 5w30 for a little less than 3000 miles in the winter. Around Christmas to mid March or so.
You do know that 10W-30 and 5W-30 are identical at operating temperatures? The 5W and 10W are only applicable at really cold temps.
I never said they weren't identical at operating temp. In any other engine calling for a 5w30, I would have no issue running it the full 5k. Just saying the 4.0 can shear a 5w30 down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles.
Don't take my word for it though.. do some research.
So what you are saying is that the 4.0L Jeep engine will shear 5W-30 to 5W-20, but 10W-30 is immune and will not become 10W-20 in the same engine?
Fascinating.
Did you look it up like I first suggested?
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I dont consider the Jeep 4.0 to be hard one oil, but I have read here that it can shear a 5w30 weight down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles. I stick with 10w30 oils and only run a 5w30 for a little less than 3000 miles in the winter. Around Christmas to mid March or so.
You do know that 10W-30 and 5W-30 are identical at operating temperatures? The 5W and 10W are only applicable at really cold temps.
I never said they weren't identical at operating temp. In any other engine calling for a 5w30, I would have no issue running it the full 5k. Just saying the 4.0 can shear a 5w30 down to a 20 weight in less than 3000 miles.
Don't take my word for it though.. do some research.
So what you are saying is that the 4.0L Jeep engine will shear 5W-30 to 5W-20, but 10W-30 is immune and will not become 10W-20 in the same engine?
Fascinating.
Did you look it up like I first suggested?
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