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Motor Oil Myths
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If it doesn't show up in a $15 Blackstones VOA/UOA then it doesn't exist. Probably just snake oil.
Now we know that your engine oil needs magnesium, zinc, molybdenum, calcium, phosphorous, boron, and titanium or it is useless. The more the better.
These additives that the blackstones VOA/UOA test for are the only real protection that your engine has.
Now we know that your engine oil needs magnesium, zinc, molybdenum, calcium, phosphorous, boron, and titanium or it is useless. The more the better.
These additives that the blackstones VOA/UOA test for are the only real protection that your engine has.
Testings at Blackstone Lab. The majority of the time it tells you, "it looks good, try 7,000 next time and report back."
Synthethics 5w and 0w is too thin for hot climates..nevermind if the upper values are 40 or 50..
If you have sludge, use synthetic to clean it right up.
Use conventional oil only if you plan to change cars every few years.
If water freezes during winter months that means you need to use 0WXX oil.
Best oils are the ones with the highest VI numbers and lowest NOAK.
Group III offers the same performance as Esters and PAO.
I can tell you exactly how thin or thick the oil will be in all temp. ranges based only on 40C and 100C temp chart.
If the relief valve is open that means the engine is not being properly lubricated.
(flavour of the month oil) is the best for all applications and is constantly recommended.
I'm a BITOG member therefore I know about oil more than 99% of the general population and can preach to the masses at Walmart's oil isle.
Use conventional oil only if you plan to change cars every few years.
If water freezes during winter months that means you need to use 0WXX oil.
Best oils are the ones with the highest VI numbers and lowest NOAK.
Group III offers the same performance as Esters and PAO.
I can tell you exactly how thin or thick the oil will be in all temp. ranges based only on 40C and 100C temp chart.
If the relief valve is open that means the engine is not being properly lubricated.
(flavour of the month oil) is the best for all applications and is constantly recommended.
I'm a BITOG member therefore I know about oil more than 99% of the general population and can preach to the masses at Walmart's oil isle.
Feelings have technical merit.
Higher ZDDP levels will save an engine with poor metallurgy.
Boutique oils are better for grocery getters.
Conventional oils are good for only 5K miles.
Higher ZDDP levels will save an engine with poor metallurgy.
Boutique oils are better for grocery getters.
Conventional oils are good for only 5K miles.
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Pontual
"Molakule knows all about oil"
Or this one - Pontual knows anything at all worthwhile.
I AGREE, Kasachstan. That was The Mithest Mith of them all
And Won the Mith thread
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Pontual
"Molakule knows all about oil"
Or this one - Pontual knows anything at all worthwhile.
I AGREE, Kasachstan. That was The Mithest Mith of them all
Last edited:
I almost forgot about synlube's lube4 life.
The lowest of low in lubricant world.
The lowest of low in lubricant world.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
1. Noack is everything
2. Disregard the Owner's Manual if it recommends anything but synthetic for your turbo.
3. API/ILSAC specs are useless. Always go with at least ACEA.
2. Disregard the Owner's Manual if it recommends anything but synthetic for your turbo.
3. API/ILSAC specs are useless. Always go with at least ACEA.
Wait...I thought it was NOACK used to be everything but now TEOST has taken its place.
I have another but I am not sure of definition.
My oil is purer than yours.
Pure what?
My oil is purer than yours.
Pure what?
Everybody that posts on BITOG knows what they are posting about.
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