I have a ATV which has a manual trans, So its got gears and a wet clutch and it gets used hard, ATV's have alot of shock loading. It calls for 10w-30 motor oil or ATF! Here is the thing, After only a few short rides using what the manual calls for the oil turns to glitter, So I said the [censored] with that and started using #267 schaffers oil which is 80w-90 which is what most manual trans use. I been riding now for 35 hours and the oil still looks new and the wet clutch does not slip at all and it shifts just as good maybe even alittle easier when warm. What gives exactly when manufactures tell you to use a oil that causes excelerated wear which I would seem to think, My ATV has a forum and they were all like no don't use that use flex drive 10-30w or belray gearsaver 80w, Why? I told them, about the glitter thing and noone wants to argue that with me. this stuff has been going flawless.
Motor oil in a manual trans?
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MolaKule
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Apparently the manf. (after testing) speced an oil with a certain viscosity and a mild AW additive package for average climate conditions. No manufacturer is going to recommend a lube that accelerates wear and stay in business.
Differential lubes have a very hefty EP additive package that is probably not needed in the ATV.
If this is a new ATV, I would expect some glitter until it has run-in.
While the Schaeffers product is great for differentials, I would recommend something like Redline MTL or Amsoil Synchromesh fluids, which have the proper viscosity (approx. 10 cSt, or a 30 weight) and has the proper anti-wear package for spur-gear transmissions.
Differential lubes have a very hefty EP additive package that is probably not needed in the ATV.
If this is a new ATV, I would expect some glitter until it has run-in.
While the Schaeffers product is great for differentials, I would recommend something like Redline MTL or Amsoil Synchromesh fluids, which have the proper viscosity (approx. 10 cSt, or a 30 weight) and has the proper anti-wear package for spur-gear transmissions.
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Its not new, I also live in a very hot climate, The reason I choose this is that it is recommended for use in limited slip differentials which also have wet clutches. The lack of glitter to me means its being heavyily protected under shock load conditions. This is very high speed atv. I know its controversial, But it just does not make sense to me to use motor oil in a system with gears.
Yeah you just read my mind. Motor oils are to designed to keep a thin film between smooth surfaces like cylinder walls, cams lobes ect, ATF is for a totally different thing to. Gears slam together metal to metal slaming together and when riding the trails hard and fast the rear wheels hop off the ground all the time under full throttle which is putting tremendous shock loads on the gears. Me picking the brand I did is one, I started using them and will never switch again, And 2 the moly. Moly is a miracle in terms of the pressures it can handle. My brother is a mechanic and he to does not understand why alot of manufactures are starting to call for atf or motor oil in manual gear boxes now.
Syncromesh was made to replace motor oil in trans speced for it.
My 1983 Pontiac j-2000/Sunbird manual trans. spec was 5W-30 motor oil.
Florida warm weather and aggressive driving style both lean toward using a thicker gear oil. 10w30 motor oil is recommended. 10w40 would be an upgrade. 80w90 gear oil is in the same visc range of a 10w40 motor oil.
The only cons to the GL5 additive package are how the components react in 'long term' usage.
I'd step down to a GL4 full synthetic and stick with the 85 or 90 weight range. Nissan/Hyundai/Kia have GL4 75w85 gear oils. Amsoil MTG & Redline MT90 are excellent 75w90 GL4 gear oils. The Amsoil MTF & Redline MTL might be a little too thin. ATFs might be best if near the north/south poles!!!
With your driving style & weather conditions, I'd wouldn't use the 10w30 or ATF either. The 40 weight motor oils would be any easy choice. And, if temp was excessive, stick with a full synthetic!
The only cons to the GL5 additive package are how the components react in 'long term' usage.
I'd step down to a GL4 full synthetic and stick with the 85 or 90 weight range. Nissan/Hyundai/Kia have GL4 75w85 gear oils. Amsoil MTG & Redline MT90 are excellent 75w90 GL4 gear oils. The Amsoil MTF & Redline MTL might be a little too thin. ATFs might be best if near the north/south poles!!!
With your driving style & weather conditions, I'd wouldn't use the 10w30 or ATF either. The 40 weight motor oils would be any easy choice. And, if temp was excessive, stick with a full synthetic!
Bunches of motorcycles use motor oil with wet clutches and share the gearbox with the engine.
So motor oil can be OK.
Is it the best for strictly a gearbox with wet clutches?
NO.
So motor oil can be OK.
Is it the best for strictly a gearbox with wet clutches?
NO.
I know its hard to believe, But it calls for 10-30w SAE motor oil. I believe every tempature extreme must have been taken into consideration with them stating that so it has a easy shifting trans no matter what the tempature is. BTW, Its a yamaha banshee atv if it helps matters. Thanks for the info above on the topic. Yeah I will step it back to a GL4 if I can find it. Problem is #267 oil is all my dealer carrys. I'll try a different brand as stated above. But no way will I ever use what it calls for again, The gear box oil upon draining almosted looked like mercury coming out which that is bad. It stays flawless with what I use now.
MolaKule
Staff member
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The reason I choose this is that it is recommended for use in limited slip differentials which also have wet clutches.
Well, there are different types of clutch and pressure plate materials and there are different additive chemistries for different applications.
The friction additive for LSD's is a completely different type of chemical than that used for say AT's or in motor oils and reacts differently as well.
The friction modifiers for LSD's are NOT = friction modifiers for ATF and are NOT = friction modifiers for transmissions and are NOT = friction modifiers used in engines.
The reason I choose this is that it is recommended for use in limited slip differentials which also have wet clutches.
Well, there are different types of clutch and pressure plate materials and there are different additive chemistries for different applications.
The friction additive for LSD's is a completely different type of chemical than that used for say AT's or in motor oils and reacts differently as well.
The friction modifiers for LSD's are NOT = friction modifiers for ATF and are NOT = friction modifiers for transmissions and are NOT = friction modifiers used in engines.
I believe my old turbo Shadow spec'd 10w-30 in the manual transaxle.
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